unfuel injecting a vortec chevy v8??????

What kind of mileage are you getting?

 

OK, let's talk about this "byp***" hose. Is it head specific or block specific? I am building a 327 SJ that I am putting a set of Vortec heads with the bigger springs (good up to .600). Will I still be required to use the byp*** hose on the early block and water pump? I have the Vortec style intake.

 

Not sure on this one...I have a roller 350 with aftermarket Vortec heads and intake and could never get a strait answer. I ended up running it without a thermostat, but winter is here and now I need one.

 

make sure that the crank is drilled for the pilot if not that will have to be addressed. I have heard that some are not drilled.

 

No byp*** needed ....had vortecs on my old motor without anything like that....and 260 @ 50 will make 390 lift sound mean...lol

 

Cut bosses and go with a beehive

 

480 lift is the max you can run on a stock vortec head. Any more than that and you're pushing it


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This eliminates the need for a byp***....from what I have been reading.


http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=Therm

 

If you have an Edelbrock intake-there is a 3/8th pipe thread port in the front of the manifold tnhat is plugged-need to run a hose from there to the suction side of the waterpump-if you are using a standard rotation waterpump and no heater hoses-use the plug in the pump.
Some say the drilled thermostat works-others say it doesnt..with mine-need the by-p*** to keep steady flow of coolant through the heads or 'hot spots' occur in the heads.

 

One last comment on the gear drive...they create vibration in the block, which a knock sensor will determine is detonation and retard ignition timing.

you can buy a gilmore style belt drive with ribbed pulleys to replace the fan belt with for the blower noise, but not sure if its designed for reverse spin of the waterpump.

 

know need to worry about a knock sensor for what i am using.

 

thanks brandon!!!!

 

thanks for the research and link info!!

 

so here is my what i have put together from all your info:

zz3/zz4 cam
lt1 or beehive springs
cut the vortec heads for the spring with tool in my shop
a steel timing cove will fit
get a special gear drive for the later sbc engine
air gap vortec style intake

now i still have two questions:

1. get new factory roller lifter? the engine has 60k miles on it. it is super clean inside

2.what carb to used? i like afb/weber/edelbrock cabrs but 600cfm or 750cfm?

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR INFO AND ANSWERING MY QUESTIONS!

 

the crank is drilled . also i think i got lucky and have a blocjk that is drilled for the fuel pump rod to. this engine has 60k miles on it . it was replaced in 4x4 suburban.

 

I used the factory roller lifters and stock 1.5 ratio rocker arms. The ZZ4 cam works great-it is not real 'lumpy'-but pulls good right through 5500 RPM. and makes good power and lots of torque. I used a 600 Eddy carb on a Performer intake with a 1" spacer. Fuel mileage on the highway with a 700 r4 trans is good.If I did it again,I would likely leave out the gear drive and use a double roller. The whinin' is fun around town but after a couple hrs on the road it can drive ya nuts.

 

I put a new ZZ4 cam in a factory roller short block that had about 40,000 miles on it. The existing roller lifters looked fine, so I re-used them.
When I was adjusting the valves, I could not get any of the plungers to depress in the lifters, they were pumped up solid.
I dont know if this is a common problem, but Ive never had it happen before.
I finally ended up taking each lifter apart and draining the oil out of them. There was no sludge or build-up inside the lifters, just oil. Everything worked just fine after that.

 

Here is a pic of the bip*** coupler. I cut the bells off of a 1/2" fitting and solder it to a short piece of pipe which gives something to clamp over. Really not sure of gas mileage as I haven't driven the truck enough to check it. When I did my research for a carbuerator I believe it was Summit who recommended the 750 cfm. Though, I went ahead with the Carter 650 cfm because I had it.

 

the transmission i will be useing is a chevy truck np833a . it is a 4 speed with 4th gear being an over drive. the gear ratios are very close to a 700r4

 

This thread has some good info and thought I would ask.
I have an 88 350 TPI (L98).
I plan on converting the serpentine and long water pump to short for clearance
and running high mount alt and ac with the TPI.
Can I also use the later model Vortec alum heads to save some weight?

 

This thread has some good info and thought I would ask.
I have an 88 350 TPI (L98).
I plan on converting the serpentine and long water pump to short for clearance
and running high mount alt and ac with the TPI.
Can I also use the later model Vortec alum heads to save some weight?

 

man i just scored a 750 cfm carb like new off the local clist. i have to thx my dad for giving me the heads up on the clist add. i think i have a cam kit coming to. i will keep you posted on the engine build up .

 

so hever is what i got so far. low mileage 350 vortec, new in the box gmpp hot cam kit( thx for a hamber) , air gap intake, 750 cfm carb. now i have been thinking of upgrading to aluminum fast burn head. now i understand they have d shaped exhaust ports. will any headers work with them? i have seen d port headers but do you have to use them?

 

Good info on the vortex here...drew, if you are going to drill the heads for bigger springs I would love to watch it done. Let me know

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(The steel timing cover will fit,a Vortec specific intake manifold will work fine-You will need to plumb in a coolant by p*** from the intake manifold to the suction side of the water pump.(Edelbrock's have a provision on the front of the manifold to accomadate this)

This is for running vortec style brackets? If you running old V-belts short or long water pump don't worry then right?

 

The by-p*** is necessary because the Vortec block does not have a coolant by-p*** provision cast into it like earlier style blocks-If you look at a stock injected Vortec block engine with Vortec heads there is a coolant by-p*** from the intake to the water pump just like a big block chev-when you get rid of the Vortec intake manifold-it is reccommended to re-install a coolant by-p*** to maintain this function.
The brackets or belt style or pump you use is irrelevant. For example if you used a stock long style pump(say the stock one that came with the engine) you would need to re-plumb the ****** sticking out of the top of the water pump to an outlet on the aftermarket intake manifold.

 

so if running a old short style water pump how would you set it up? I just picked one of these up last night

 

If the pump has a plug in the top-I would take it out and install a ******-then run a short piece of hose to another ****** coming out of the intake manifold. You could use oner of the plugs on top or as was mentioned earlier-Edelbrock puts a 3/8th npt plug coming out the front of the manifold-take the plug out-install another ****** and plumb them together.

If the pump has no where to tap in to-run the hose from the ****** on your manifold and tee (see pic in post #48)into the heater hose that is coming into the water pump(suction side)

If you are not running a heater-just use that port on the water pump.

 

thanks. did a little looking on the web. One guy just ran hose to heater core from intake and from 2 fittings off water pump.
Pulled up a pic from speedway and it looks like the short water pump will have the fitting at the top for this too. Now I'll need to get the regular steel timing cover to fit the short water pump.