Hey guys, I am new to the site and I am glad to be a part of such a great community! Just wanted to share my "new" 1946 pickup with you guys and see if anyone on this site could share their knowledge about air suspension. I am a college student who has been working at a local fab shop here in Chico Ca for the last 4 years. I plan to build the frame from 2x4 tubing and using a mustang II front clip with a triangulated rear setup. This is my first build so I am looking for a little help sorting through all of my air suspension and front clip options. So far I have been looking mostly at fatmanfab.com front clip since I believe it will offer the best geometry to lay this thing on the ground. What do you recommend for bags? compressor(s)? valves? management systems? I have been looking at accuair's e-level setup (quite pricey) as well as some lower cost options. I want this thing to cruise low, sit on the ground at shows, but still have enough lift to handle speed bumps. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks, Daniel Some ideas for the drop/custom fab work...
You will get all the info you need over here! Scroll down to the suspension threads! Don't let the title of the home page fool ya. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/index.php
Nice project, Air Ride makes every thing you could want, depending on how deep your pockets are the management systems go from a button you push to a fully automated system.
Thanks for all the help guys. I have been searching like crazy and I have figured out A LOT! Suspension is all figured out (Fatman tubular MII front on bags, triangulated rear still looking for rear end, Custom frame, Accuair air suspension management (I am going to have to sell a kidney)...now on to engine/trans. I am thinking 6.0/l92 heads due to the good hp and low cost. Of course I am going to run a carb, want a t56 Manual trans but I am having trouble finding one. Here are some pics so you can get a better idea of where my build is going to end up. (No Billet Aluminum!) Plan on running a nearly identical wheel setup Fellow HAMB members 46! Let me know if you have any leads on an engine! Any LS/Vortec! Thanks, Daniel
Reading over your post about building a 46 Chevy Truck, perhaps I can tell you what worked for me. I've built three of these 41-46 Chevy Trucks over the last 3 years. I'm rather conservative and try to use what is out there rather than take the time to engineer it. Isuzu Trooper SUV chassis makes wonderful platforms for these old pickups. I used a freebie 93 Trooper frame, yes I know it was 4X4, but I cut the front differential out, capped the holes in the spindles, lowered the front by the torsion bar adjustment. The rear had a three bar arrangement with coil springs, I removed the coils and put AIRBAGS in. The rest of the frame is stock. I left the fuel system intact, along with all the plumbing. These things come with fuel pump in the tank and a return line from the engine. Plus 4 wheel disc brakes and power steering. The wheel base is right at 108" but it looks like you could easily extend it if you so desired. Cab mounts are simple. I used 2.5" square boxed tubing welded to the inside of the frame and bolted the cab down through all the holes Chevy put in this thing from factory. I also used the pedal assembly, brake booster and master from the donor vehicle. The gas pedal is easily modified by heating and bending. The steering column with tilt, and locking device, as well as turn signal switch are all Isuzu, saving a ton of money. the only modification I did to the cab was to cut the fire wall a little to get the base of the steering column to work. I suggest you look at my photo albums, there are a bunch of pictures of what I've done.
another thing, small block Chevys fit great along with a TH350 or TH400. Motor mounts are simple, transmission crossmember simple. I made the motor mounts and bolted them into the same holes Isuzu mounted their motor to. Store bought headers from Speedway for fat fendered cars & trucks work great without any modifactions. I did have to modify the core support and used an aluminum radiator also from speedway. This truck is such a hoot to drive, handles great with power steering and power brakes. And was cheap to build. The only thing I would do different, it really needs an overdrive transmission. Ya see these things have 4:30 to 1 gears in the ass end. Cruises really nice about 55 mph, the motor screams for another gear about 70. Good luck on your project, if I can help, just ask.
CC, 41-46 has the exact same grille! (EDIT: Not really....42-early 46 had painted grilles and trim. All the chrome was saved for wartime efforts!) Only difference is 2-piece turn signal housings, screw in rear window trim, and a flat firewall (no beadrolled "X"). Everything else is EXACTLY the same!
Can i ask why your going with FatmanFab? Looks like a nice product but expensive. I went here http://jwrodgarage.com/hub2hub.html and I'm piecing it together. First the crossmember, then control arms. Fatmanfab may give you that option also I don't know. Good luck and keep up the enthusiasm, don't let anyone tell you your nuts like some will
Hey guys, sorry I haven't been updating much. I got kinda down on this forum due to the overwhelming negative responses I received elsewhere on the site. I love the site and get a lot of information here but certain users are out for blood due to my modern drivetrain and suspension. Anywho, here is an update on my build... I ended up going with a Scott's Hot Rods Superslam (bagged) IFS. It comes as a simple weld in single crossmember. Expensive no doubt but it looks to be well built. (Although they are not very fun to deal with on the phone) As you can tell by the paint/primer when I bought the pickup, it may not all match up as entirely original. The firewall has the bead rolled X (or did before I began installing a custom recessed one. and yes they are two piece turn signal housings. Paint (and 300lbs of bondo) have all been stripped and I have cut/formed new bed sides for the pickup. I welded pipe along the entire length of the top edge of the bed sides to resemble the factory rolled edge. Trying to figure out wheels (probably 15 or 16" steelies) and tires right now. I will be running a T-56 manual trans (out of a camaro) and have read that bias ply tires will give me the most traction out of the hole with any manual set-up. Any truth to that? The 6.0 iron ls that I am building should be pushing 500hp so tire selection is of utmost importance!!! I really like white walls but I am having trouble finding them in any sizes close to what I am looking for (in bias ply). Firestone dragsters seem to be the closest to what I am looking for. Anyone know how well they work for street/strip use? I have johnny joints all around for the triangulated 4-link and a ford 9" being built as we speak. Once I finalize my decision on tire size I will be able to finally build the frame! 2 x 4x 3/16 sq tubing is already cut and laid out for the front half of the frame. Still have to cut the parts for the rear c-notch and the back 1/4 of the frame. Thanks again for all the help guys. This site is GREAT for gathering information on my build. If anyone knows where I might be able to find a seat for this year of truck please PM me. Otherwise I will be looking for some non-original alternative Thanks again!!
Daniel Look up Hurst Racing Tires....They are quality pie-crust recaps on modern radial cases. Based on your plan descriptions, I thinks these would be the best fit for period looks and modern performance. As for seat, I have the same truck, and I'm looking for a '85-'90 S-10 bench seat to cut down. Others have used late-model Suburban 3rd seats, minivan rear seats, Astro mid seats....lots of choices. Like the other middle-of-the-road guys say.....It's your truck, build it like you want to. You're the only one who has to like it! If the other guy squabbles, let HIM pay for it!
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