Some possible topics : Hot rod a spray gun What makes one better than another ? I think the main thing is atomization but exactly how does one gun do a better job than another? Is it airfoil design Is it hole size and placement angle in the air caps Polished surfaces ( technology and science of the differences) Why do some say gun ,A is better for primer and heavy viscosity than gun B but gun B is perfect for base coats. And gun C is perfect for clears only. Of course there are different tip sizes but why not different air caps to go with different tips and fluids ? is it the design of the air cap? Most serious shops have at least 3 designated guns 4 if they do single stage. Some gun manufacturers will spec a size of the designed spray pattern like some are 5-1/2" and otgeres are @ 10-1/2" and others are in between. The air cap again ? Anything else you guys want to talk or brag about
ive spent thousands on paint guns . now im happy with my sata 2000 1.3 tip for base and my sharpe razor 1.3 tip for clear i have a 1.2 for it but havent tried it yet also have a sata minni jet 1.0 tip for small parts . i use cheap parts store 1.7 1.8 tip guns for primer you get what you pay for ..brett
I have found out that you can pick up three different guns with the same size tip but all three spray different, so i would say it is in the gun design and the cap. For instance i had a sata 2000 like the above person, i replaced it with an IWATA ls 400 ,i think it sprays a lot better i use it on clear with a 1.4 needle. I have a Binks M1G with a 1.3 that i like it sprays base and clear very well and it is comfortable in your hand. Primer i use sata rp it also has a 1.4 but it is a blunt tip instead of tapered. so even though all the tips are close to the same size they are made a little different.
Yes, I have several different guns. I have a devillbiss GTI with a 1.4 for clear, a cheaper gun with a 1.4 for base because I dont want paint in my clear gun. and some real cheap big nozzle guns 1.8 for primers. Also air pressure has alot to do with how paint lays also. Have to have enough air to break up the paint properly. Like said you get what you pay for. You will find that the small tips are good for painting paint and clear and leave minimal texture but have a hard time spraying thick primers and the big tipped guns will spray thicker material but leaves more texture. Atleast it seems that way to me.
I used sata 2000 guns for years.... Till I sprayed with an IWATA!! Now the my sata is my sealer gun!!! The IWATA has the best atomizing metallics abillitys I've ever seen!!
I picked my Sata 2000, because Jon Kosmoski, from House of Kolor, recommended it for it's ability to shoot candy paint effectively. Better atomization, even pattern, consistency, area all factors in picking a GOOD gun. I use it for basecoat, candy/pearl, and clear. 1.4 tip and cap. Single stage uro, and acrylic enamele, poly I run in my older Sata (95 HVLP), 1.6 tip, I believe. So if I ever forget to clean it, I could just toss it. Good gun to buy used for little money. For primer, I picked up a Devilbiss Finishline at smartshoppers.com, for under a hundred, a few years back. It has a 1.8 or 2.0 tip. If I spray any kind of larger flake, I clean the living hell out of it, and shoot my flake with it, as well. Also have a Sata Minijet, for jambs, artwork, blending flames, etc. But I have an older siphon Devilbiss jamb gun that works just as well. You can find them at auction pretty cheap. Sata just uses less air. Not a probelm with a big compressor, but if you are running a small one, be sure to pick guns with less CFM requirements.
I'm sure its a compromise just like anything else. I have plenty of air so that's not a concern , I don't think. What prompted me to start this thread is that its time for a gun upgrade. I don't paint every day or on a consistent basis so its really hard to justify 2-4 grand in spray guns. But I do enough that it warrants much more than my devilbis finish line. 50% of what happens is single stage so the finish line and some wet sanding have done a FINE job. 25% is primers, sealers, and poly spay fillers. Also done a FINE job and the gun doesn't owe me anything. Same gun different tips but I think I need a different needle to go with the 2.2 tip. Has some trouble with metalics and is really finicky- some of that is me and my buddy gave me some pointers to correct that. He spayed some with my gun and commented this " its a good gun if you are perfect, I could paint with it beautifully but I wouldn't be able to make any money with it " Makes sense right ? OK so here's what happens the other night. I was cleaning up the br*** air cap, giving it a good polish inside. Last thing that went thru it was some poly spray filler. So in the process I inadvertently reamed out the tiny holes in the center of tge air cap. I was so freaking pissed at my self because i needed to shoot some 2k primer and no way to get a cap . Really thought it was ruined. So I reamed the other to match while I was cussing at my self. I figured well, give it a shot so I mixed up a small batch of 2k and tried it. It actually sprayed at least 10 times better than it ever has. Better pattern, better control, less peal, with reamed air cap. I don't understand why and I would like to know I have some test panels to do today and I'll be shooting some metalics and clear. We'll see what happens.
Hey, I'm thinkin two things happened here- Your last gun cleaning probably really cleared some built up material from some of the gun's p***ageways & the enlarged holes in the air cap presented less restriction at the air cap,fluid tip area, and this yielded better atomizing, and thus a better spray pattern. Over the years I've run numbered drill bits thru air caps and fluid tips and dressed fluid needles with lapping compound into fluid tips, all with mixed results I still shoot sealer, some single stage and flake from a Binks #7 that's over thirty years old-yep, it's been ''hot rodded''.......would I shoot a $1,200.00 a gallon red thru it? hell no, that's why they make Iwata 400s! Let us know how you spray out gomes out, " Humpty Dumpty was pushed "
Well the spray out went great. Solid color base Metallic base DBC 2000 with Hok rainbow flake DBC 2000 with ppg vibrance black toner (built off of blue if you're wondering) Cheap summit (kirker) clear. And some more 2k primer Lots of gun cleaning lol. I found that if I backed the pressure down to 19ish from 23 things went perfectly. Those hole were 0.021 but now they are 0.039 - big difference in the way it sprays & I'm happy.
sata green handle mini jet, devilbiss MBC , binks 7 for primer, ch***is paint,roofing tar,asphalt sealer etc.just kidding a binks 7 will spray about anything.wouldnt be without it.
I use 2 sata 3000's for base, and sata RP for clear..i know the RPs are out dated,i just don't Luke change i suppose. I've used Iwatas and never really liked them until i sprayed with a super nova....that WILL be my next gun purchase!
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