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40 Ford clutch linkeage - T5 trans

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bob Labla, Dec 20, 2012.

  1. Bob Labla
    Joined: Aug 15, 2012
    Posts: 69

    Bob Labla
    Member
    from mitten

    New to the forum, but have been soaking up a ton of info from you guys for a couple months. Good stuff!

    I'm in the process of building a 40 Ford pickup with a 40 frame, and want to use the 302/T5 combo. I'm not sure what to do about the clutch pedal/linkage issue. I don't have any of those parts yet, so I could sure use some advise on what others have done. I am considering using a cable with a quadrant similar to the fox body Mustang. I have a Mustang pedal box I could use, but I'm not crazy about having the master cylinder and booster on the firewall. I'd like to keep the factory look with the pedals going under the floor. The hydraulic option seems pretty spendy.

    Has anybody gone this route?

    Do I need an aftermarket pedal ***embly, or should I use/modify the factory set up?
     
  2. slinginrods
    Joined: Oct 6, 2008
    Posts: 422

    slinginrods
    Member
    from florida

    hydraulic is not spendy,theres threads on lowbuck ways to doit.my friend just did one using factory pedals ,single wilwood master and a factory hydraulic bellhousing.the ford engine your using may provide a little more of a challenge but im sure somebodys done it here.id stay away from the quadrant.
     
  3. mitch 36
    Joined: Aug 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,753

    mitch 36
    Member

    Bob, if Im not mistaken the Mustang uses a cable actuated clutch which should be very easily adapted to the 40 style clutch pedal. In fact I think if you do a search, there is an exact thread on here about that exact install. Mitch.
     
  4. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 4,130

    treb11
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  5. About 15 years ago I did something similar, and lowbuck. (I was 20 at the time) I used the throw out bearing fork and pivot from a toploader, spaced it from the bell housing with 3/4" bar stock and bolted it into place. That gave me the ft to rr clutch instead of the 5.0/t-5 rr to ft with the cable. I then drilled the fork's detent and ran a threaded rod through it to the pedal clevis. On the arm side I used a lugnut for it's radius as well as adjustment. Seemed pretty basic at the time, but I also had those parts on hand. Just another idea for you, I am sure other people probably have some better ideas.
     

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