Great build Hi. Ditto on the vinegar or molasses bath then keep them oiled. Powdercoat for the socket, not so much, fitness issues. Jack tools, dip 'em then paint.
Well, it has definitely been awhile since I've provided an update on the build of the '48. Like most of you guys, life's more important things took precedence, but I think I'm finally going to be able to get back to work on this truck. I sure hope so because I'm ready to see it driving! So to kick start the build process I bit the bullet and started working on the rear end of the truck. I drained the old gear lube and man was it nasty. A car buddy of mine recommended that I "wash" it out with diesel fuel so that's what I did trying to clean the "shumtz" out of it. After that I took some Dawn and red Scotch pads and washed it about 4 times. Now for the point I was some what dreading, painting it. I've never painted anything before with a real, honest to goodness paint gun so I read everything I could get my hands on to prepare myself. After my research I took the plunge. The paint job isn't perfect, I ended up with a few fisheyes but the rough texture of the rear end hides a lot of sins. I'm very pleased with the results and the paint on the axle and powder coat on the frame and springs matches beautifully. Next up is the front axle!! Stay tuned... Those spring packs are just impressive.....and HEAVY!
awesome to see some progress on this resto/custo project - always loved old trucks and think is always worth to keep them alive resp. bring 'em back subscribed
That rear axle assembly is about the same as the '60 F-350 Rockwell version I've got under my '29 AA. I'm having to fabricate an e-brake on the ham. Turned the drums and installed new shoes and brake kits, including slave cylinders. I think I will copy your swapping out for a power brake booster and dual-chamber master. Gotta have that safety and ease of stopping.
Great to see another F4 being brought back. Great looking work you're doing. I am resto [/I]moding a '49 F4 with 350 SBC, 700R4 pulling a Dana 70 with 4:10 gears. It has the script stake bed and will appear stock. Shooting for an OTR date of spring 2014.
Thanks HOTFR8. I'll have to post some other pics of the chassis. I have the radiator core support, battery tray, steering box and the brake booster all bolted up now too. Once I get the front axle painted and bolt up I'll be able to install the brakes and then start running the brake lines.
Thanks 4444Design. I've really enjoyed working on this truck, I just hate that it's taken me so long. The day this truck is driving down the road is going to be a glorious day! Thanks Eric! I'm anxious to see the chassis on your car all put together. I think your build has been an inspiration for many of us.
Osage, would you mind describing how you fab'ed up an e-brake? That's the one thing I haven't been able to figure out how to do on this truck. The original e-brake was a drum attached to the transmission output shaft. Since an automatic has been installed on this truck I havn't figured out how to adapt an e-brake. Oldogy, That's fantastic to hear of another F4 getting a new lease on life. I'd love to see some pictures of it. Having the script bed is a bonus. This F4 didn't have a bed at all so one was made using blueprints made from an original script bed. This only thing missing is the Ford script but I'll make sure I at least paint the script on the bed.
THank you Andy. I'm really glad to be able to get back to work on the F4. Hopefully I'll be able to make some regular updates. I've been keeping up with your Buick and I really like how you reshaped the front fender wheel opening. Looks so much better. Keep up the great work!
Its good to see that you're back on this project David. This truck is gonna be cool! Btw you could remove those overload springs and not notice they're gone unless you carry some really heavy stuff. Eli
Now you tell me I don't have to put the overload springs back on. Actually I did think about that especially when I had to cut the U-bolts off just to remove the rear axle only to find out I couldn't get replacements! Thankfully, the owner's brother (the one who made a new flatbed for it) was able to make some replacement U-bolts. They don't look exactly like the originals but work well. I just thought the truck looked "tougher" to have the overload springs on it. Everything on this truck is so BIG I just wanted to keep that look.
Attached are a few more pictures of things I've been able to put back on the frame. Friday I installed the backing plates on the rear axle. I still need to refurbish the brake shoes, springs and wheel cylinders so you'll have to wait a bit for that pic. The radiator core support, battery tray, steering box and brake pedal assembly. I do have a question I could use some advice with, it's the front axle. The truck only has around 46k miles on it and the kingpins are tight and take grease. I've been told to "Leave them alone!" but I'm not sure how best to paint the thing! Obviously I'll wash the axle with dawn and red scotch pad, but I'm fearful the grease in the kingpins will seep out and mess up the paint. Is there a way to remove the pin and disassemble the axle for paint but then reinsert the pin for use? Or am I just over thinking this.
Actually this is pretty easy. There should be a wedge bolt going thru the axle adjacent to the kingpin, 3/8" fine thread if I remember correctly. This bolt is tapered and fits into a groove in the kingpin, thus "locating" it and keeping the kingpin from "walking" up or down. Its tapered so you can't pull it all the way thru the axle when you tighten the nut. You'll need a 9/16" socket to remove the nut, then drive the wedge bolt out with a flat punch, and then drive out the king pin. (I used to use a big ass brass punch and 5 pound mall). You'll see the locating groove in the kingpin when you get it out. Remove the grease fittings and buy a new ones, and be sure to thoroughly clean the passages between the grease fitting ports and inside of the bushings. Brake Klean works great. Clean and inspect everything. 46,000 miles doesn't mean shit if the kingpins didn't get proper lubrication and maintenance. Ideally, checking the king pin o.d. and bushings' i.d. with micrometers would be preferable but not always possible. If everything looks good, cover the bushings, grease fitting passages and paint. I'm not sure about your truck but some used rotator bearings between the axle and top of the spindle to prevent wear. If your truck has 'em, replace 'em. Btw, My '56 F100 had a sticking kingpin at one point. It made it a challenge to steer and was actually more like putting English on the steering wheel and hoping the truck went where I wanted it to. Do it right and you won't even think about it after that.
Eli, I followed your instructions and pulled the king pins. They look pretty good and the brass bushings still look good too. Only the roller bearings were a bit stiff. I have them soaking in diesel to get all of the old grease out, hopefully then I can repack them for better operation. I've also thought about calling Job Lot to see if they have any replacements. Now my question is, should I try to remove the steering arm brackets from the spindles too? Your thoughts?
I wouldn't remove the bracket from the spindle unless you can't get grease to pump from the fitting to the lower bushing. Try to do that first. Your shims don't look too hot, no doubt the bearings aren't much better. I recommend replacing the lot. I also noticed in your picture that there is no safety pin in the steering shaft end and it looks like the adjusting screw has backed out. (See the big slot in the end and the holes thru the shaft. You can take this all apart, clean it up and inspect the pivot joint . I seem to remember a spring and socket assembly behind that adjusting screw, mind you its been about 30 years and many parties ago. ) The screw allows you to adjust the slack in the steering joint. It looks like your dust boot might still be there, replace it of need be.
I understand what you're saying Eli. I've tried to remove that screw already (that's why the safety pin is missing) but somehow the female threaded portion got damaged on the end and it is prohibiting me from removing the screw. I've tried to remove the pivot ball but it is stuck as well. Always something with these old trucks. Haha Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Have you tried turning the screw in a little bit? Give that a try and look closely at the end of the threads to see if you can see a bent area. Maybe you can straighten it out with a little work, creative tool manufacturing and the 3 P's, "Patience, Perseverance and Profanity".
Job Lots should have the kingpin set. I bought a set along with tie rod ends about six months ago for mine. Drag link rebuild kits are available. In fact, the entire drag link is available. Pay close attention how the drag link comes apart as they will go together wrong, so I've been told.
Thanks oldogy. I ordered a new kingpin set yesterday from Joblot. As for the drag link, I'm still having problems trying to take it apart. I can't even get the ball the drag link attaches too out of the steering arm. I'm thinking about taking the spindle assembly and getting the ball pushed out with a press and then creating a drag link using two tie rod ends. As you can see in the photo, one end of the drag link has been converted to a rod end already. Whoever installed the steering box (done before I started working on the truck) modified the drag link. What do you think??
HiVolt: I'm still fabricating the pieces, designed by my friend, Joe Engleman of Engleman Engineering in Independence, Mo. It comes off the third member, with a disc attached to the universal flange that fits on the pinion. I've got a manual caliper and brackets that attach the caliper to the ham at the nose and at the bolts in the back. I'm slow because I don't have a plasma cutter, acetylene torch, metal lathe or anything much but a drill press, grinder, cold chisel, Dremel with wafer discs, a mig welder and a BFH. Oh, and infinite patience, since I've been working on this thing since 1974 and still is far from running. I should have photos of the fabricated pieces and the patterns I'm using as soon as it transfers from my cell phone.
The Jalopy Journal
