So I have just installed a brand new pertronix flamethrower distributor on my Chrysler 383 and went to set up the timing via a vacuum gauge. When I get the highest reading possible and then knocked it back 1/2"-1" of vacuum my timing mark was advanced almost to the "10 o'clock" mark on the balancer, well ofF the scale. Before this I was running 12 deg initial, 20 mech and all in by 2000 rpm with 14 vacuum on top of that. when I run that now it runs like ass. Got me stumped, vacuum is a great way to get maximum ignition, but to be so far advanced. It is running okay off the mark but idles like a dog in gear and wants to stall but in neutral is idleling well above 1000 rpm. What am I doing wrong, any ideas? Andy
I had a similar problem with a SBC. The harmonic balancer had "slipped" because the rubber ring had deteriorated and the timing marks were off. I had it rebuilt and everything was fine.
That's what I thought but have checked and is okay. I found that one of the limiter bars had got caught under the rotor cap but I've fixed that and still have the same problem. I have been out again and it seemed ok but then it just ran like shit again at both initial set at 12* and the vacuum adjust way. I know my eddy 1406 is lean and needs to be re-jetted, and I am wondering if I have a fuel delivery problem whether that would cause the affect in timing? I had a real lean surge at cruise speed and also that sound when your way advanced but I was only at just about 15* which is just above normal for BB mopar Help!!!! It's driving me crazy!
I take it your 383 ran fine and all you have changed is to a new ignition? If so, would you not deduce that something is amiss with the new ignition?
Haven't had a chance to have it run well due to an issue with the previous distributor and was hoping this would be install, set and go. You are right, I have deduced that it is an ignition problem but not sure what yet!
I had a similar problem on a 327 chevy. Went from a dual point to an MSD knockoff. Ran like crap at the same setting, so we pulled the timing down to 4 degrees, and she runs great now.
More advance makes you leaner,bad situation worse type of thing. Look at your plugs carefully they tell the story.
Just to eliminate fuel, took the top off the carb checked floats and blew out needle and seats and bowls were filled up with fuel. Again when I fired up and got it to run it was advanced back at that 10 o'clock mark and I have to add a lot of idle to keep it running which then adds vacuum at idle on the timed port. Do pertronix modules go bad or just die?
I have a 383 mopar and battled timing. Make sure vac advance is on ported, not full. Mine is at like 13 or 14 degrees advance with a 268 cam and 10 inches vacuum at idle. Ya a little low but it cruises at 15 or 16. I am running the ignitor 1 in a stock remanned dizzy and it works great. I have an eddy 1407 on mine and I rebuilt it a while ago but had to clean it out after I rebuilt the engine last summer. Try pinching the fuel line, if it is rubber, with vice grips until it dies. This will suck all the crap out of the little ports in the carb. Try this seriously I had the same problem a month ago and my car was barely able to burn rubber and stalled every time in gear. Now I have to hold on and pray!
Thanks I tried that tip and may have helped but also discovered a major vacuum leak at the carb base. I thought I had it sealed up pretty good but it appears not. as soon as I covered the top of the carb it jumped 500 rpm So would this explain why I have to advance so much to keep it running nicer and then be so far out of whack with the timing?
In short, yes. Too much timing can lead to a seemingly required high idle / instability at lower rpm. And in your case, the vice versa is that it runs "stronger"" with the additional advance which masks the problem. In really short, moving forward, take care of the basics and ignore past results when things were "broken." Glad ya found it, BTW.
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