So i have been reading a lot of different threads and info on the internet for getting a motor started after sitting for many years. I would like to get peoples opinions on this. The person that had the car before me said it ran before he parked it and I trust his word because he is a family friend. Any write-ups, videos, how-to's, or any helpful info would be much appreciated.
Ran when parked is a good one. Pretty simple really , what did you not understand or not agree with or question in the info you've been reading?
Does the engine turn over,if so fresh oil and gas,and fire it off,,if there is a problem you'll find out within he first few minutes. HRP
If it turns by hand I think I would pull the Dizzy and pre-oil first, a little oil in the cylinders and then lite it!
I guess if you're super worried you could pull the valve covers and prime the motor. Bolt em back on and twist the key! Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
I stored my '65 327 Chevelle for six year after putting 85K on it. I dumped gas in the carb;put a fresh battery in it. Hit the key, started it up and drove it home. I should have pulled the plugs ;put a little oil in each cylinder;cranked it over until the oil pressure came up.Then started it, but what I did worked fine for me.
I have a SBC that I built over 10 years ago but only ran it for th break in period ad its sit since. Im gonna change the oil,filter ad plugs,run the oil pump with my drill for about fifteen minutes then see what happens! Ive read to change the rings but I just dont see the need. Good luck and lets hear how it turns out
It needs to be completly tore down. If there's one stuck ring you will be rebuilding anyway. Just did a 351C that "ran" back when. Froze rings in 2 cyl. My 364 Buick Nailhead, guy said it was ready to run, glad I tore it down as it had rust and frozen rings in 2 cyl. also. Both motors were oiled down with Kroil in all cyl. for weeks and turned over by hand. Best of luck to ya, it's called gambling!
You don't need to pull the distributor to prime it with oil....just pull the coil wire off and crank it over until you see oil pressure...then plug it back in and start it up.
If the water was drained when it was parked you should not have the problems that Biribrat had i would bull the distributor prime the engine, marvel mystery oil in the cylinders for a day then fire it up, don't dry start it up or you risk spinning a bearing my.02
My old '52 Willys Areo Eagle F-head engine, (the one that had the intake valve in the head and the exhaust valve in the block), wouldn't start so the old Mechanic across the street told me to pull the plugs and squirt some good old MMO in each cylinder then put the plugs back in and start her up. Worked like a charm. pdq67
Change the oil and filter Penetrating oil in the spark plug holes Gas from a small temporary tank (plastic boat tank) Remove the distributor and oil prime the motor while spinning the starter Put the dist back where it was Pour 1/4 oz gas in the carb Start it with fire extinguisher near by
I would not tear it down if you don't need to. Check the fluids. The condition of the oil could be a good indicator of how it ran. A little marvel mystery in the cylinders would probably be a good idea. Can't hurt. Pull the coil wire, spin it over until you get oil pressure. Fresh battery and good gas, prime the carb so it starts right away. See what happens. If it needs a rebuild you will know. Change oil after its been warmed up. I would not change oil until you see how it runs. If it needs a rebuild you will know. 5 years is not a long time to sit unless water got in the cylinders. Then your tearing it down.
Biggest issue I've seen with long term storage is dry valve guides siezing. I try to squirt a little oil on them and get all the rockers while I'm at it.
the reason for pulling the distributor is so you can prime it without turning it over---use a drill not an impact...
cheap way to prime yank dist find a old dist grind gear off weld a short peice of hex were rotor goes stuff it in there hook up a drill you will know when pump primes drill will start cryin i'd let it lube for about thirty seconds if your drill can take it
If you run the oil pump with a drill for 15 minutes, you're wasting 14 minutes and 50 seconds of your life. Prime it until you have pressure indicated on the gauge, a few seconds more, that's enough.
Either this ^^^ or get a priming tool, they are not very expensive. If you prime without the distributor in, and no tool, you run the risk of not priming the top end. Many distributor bodies are part of the oiling system. If the distributor body is not present the oil should get through the bearings on the bottom end, but will usually drain back into the pan instead of working up through the pushrods. Using an old distributor, or priming tool, take the valve covers off and run the priming tool, or old distributor with your drill until you see oil come up through the pushrods. Pulling the valve covers will also let you know if any furry woodland creatures have been using your heads for nap time.
I'm all for priming it first, cheap insurance! A few years back, a friend inherits an old Duster from a dead relative. Hadn't been started in a couple of years. All he did was check all the fluids, jump the battery and start it. I go see it and the car has this godawful rod knock... a total shame since it was the smoothest running slant 6 I ever ran across. Bob
prepped everything yesterday and this morning i go to start it and nothing happens. when i turn the key i hear some sparks or something coming out of the distributor/coil area. any ideas?
i checked for loose wires and everything seemed to be ok. i jumped the starter just to see if the motor turns over and it did with no problems. coil or distributor problem im guessing. any other things i could try?
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