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Imron paint

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 66tintop, Feb 17, 2013.

  1. 66tintop
    Joined: Nov 7, 2012
    Posts: 450

    66tintop
    Member
    from Canada

    Hey guys, I am getting ready to paint my 66 project soon, just wondering what some of your thoughts were about Imron paint (5.0 voc) I purchased 3 gallons and hardeners before they banned the sale of it here in CANADA,I would like the finish to look similar to orignal (not super shiny)should I use the Imron or purchase something else (black is the colour) I really like the old factory look of laquer, but I am sure I can not purchase these products anymore ,they were so easy to spray for me, any help would be great, thanks 66tintop:confused::confused::confused:
     
  2. lawman
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 2,665

    lawman
    Member

    It is very good paint. i sprayed a lot of it back in the day.I would wait
    about 30 days and color sand it and them buff out.Be sure to ware a
    mask as it will hurt you.
     
  3. 66tintop
    Joined: Nov 7, 2012
    Posts: 450

    66tintop
    Member
    from Canada

    Lawman- thanks for the tip on 30 days till cut and buff, I sprayed plenty of laquer and still do , with my cabinet making/ woodworking work, how would you say Imron is to spray as you don't have reducers to thin it out, should I start with a light tack coat and then build heavier coats from there ? how many coats should i apply ? I am used to just laying laquer pretty heavy for my cabinet projects, as it set's up preety fast, any and all info would be appreciated, thanks 66tintop:):)
     
  4. Weasel
    Joined: Dec 30, 2007
    Posts: 6,696

    Weasel
    Member

    It contains isocyanates - that's Cyanide to you and me. Use full respirator and read the MSDS thouroughly and comply with everything it says - this is dangerous stuff....
     
    Truckdoctor Andy likes this.
  5. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    We've never sprayed a whole car with Imron but have painted a lot of motors, transmissions and suspension parts with it. I love it because it is tough as nails, doesn't fade out over time, and sprays great. I find it hard to get a run with it.

    I just always lay on a light coat first, let that get tacky (follow the can instructions) then lay on subsequent coats, usually 3 total. It seems to flow in after a while and lays down well.

    As lawman suggested, wear a GOOD respirator and do it in a well ventilated area................it is nothing to mess around with and will harden in your lungs like it does on the parts being sprayed. I do it outside, with a breeze blowing the overspray away from me, and even then the respirator catches some of it.

    Don
     
  6. there is a reason it was banned its super hard stuff after its set up and shines like no other i dont think id be spraying it in the backyard garage your nieghbors might not approve unless you live on abig farm then go for it
     
  7. lawman
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 2,665

    lawman
    Member

    Follow what Don said and you will do fine.
     
  8. redroaddog
    Joined: Apr 1, 2011
    Posts: 403

    redroaddog
    Member

    it sprays alot like a/c enamel. buffs really hard so use no more than 2000 grit on your last cut before buffing. the best black paint job i've seen was a 36 ford coupe the guy told me it took a month to rub but looked a mile deep. make sure your mask fit is really good this **** will hurt you burned my eyes spraying it and now wear gl***es not bad but 15 years later gl***es hav't changed so that tells me it was the paint. i wouldn't spray without a fresh air mask maybe you could rent one...Dave:cool:
     
  9. lht
    Joined: Jan 18, 2013
    Posts: 243

    lht
    Member

    you need a good respirator for any polyurethane paint under a miroscope the particles have fish hooks on them witch hook on your lungs or car or ?
     
  10. 66tintop
    Joined: Nov 7, 2012
    Posts: 450

    66tintop
    Member
    from Canada

    Hey Dave, thanks for the tips as far as the fresh air mask, my dear wife is a sales rep here ontario for a major health and safety company, she is getting me geared up with latest 3m suit ,resporater, gloves and anything else that I will need, hope I move around in the space suit, I am not *****in, she has good intentions, thank christ I am painting this project in pieces, all to many ! I guess I should thankful for her concerns ,and that she lets me screw around with my car projects,it sure sounds like I purchased the right paint , wasn't cheap $1000.00 for 3 gallon's but I wanted something tough,and somewhat resisdent to chemicals ,so wish me luck and I will post pics with results, I may get get turfed as it is a 66 model , but is being built as a replica nascar car so they might let it slide, we'll see , thanks tintop :):):):)
     
  11. 66tintop
    Joined: Nov 7, 2012
    Posts: 450

    66tintop
    Member
    from Canada

  12. jr9162
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 247

    jr9162
    Member

    Just don't use MEK as a thinner
     
  13. 66tintop
    Joined: Nov 7, 2012
    Posts: 450

    66tintop
    Member
    from Canada

    The paint store ,told me I didn't need to reduce as there is none available for the new old Imron, is this correct , thanks guys 66tintop:confused::confused::confused:
     
  14. bobj49f2
    Joined: Jun 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,966

    bobj49f2
    Member

    I sprayed Imron in a truck shop I worked in about 25 years ago. It was all we sprayed. At the time there was a reducer for it but we rarely used it. Two coats of paint and the truck was moved out. It came out a little orange peely but it didn't matter on a semi or dump truck. I did spray one truck with it reduced, I think I laid 4 coats on and it was shiny as hell.

    We also sprayed Oshosh trucks with Hensen paint, Imron was tough, but nothing like this stuff. The shop bought it in five gallon pails. It was specified by the truck manufacturer.

    One more thing about Imron. You have to make sure every bit of surface is prepped and sanded. It will come off in sheets if it starts coming loose in a tight corner that wasn't completely roughed up.
     
  15. snopeks garage
    Joined: May 25, 2011
    Posts: 556

    snopeks garage
    Member
    from macomb MI

    that stuffs old school. any brand name urathane base clear will hold up, look, spray and buff better.
     
  16. plodge55aqua
    Joined: Jan 4, 2009
    Posts: 1,710

    plodge55aqua
    Member
    from Alberta

    Youll get a shiney Paint job.. just dont to put it on to heavy.. if your not familiar with the product.. do a test panel first..
     
  17. 66tintop
    Joined: Nov 7, 2012
    Posts: 450

    66tintop
    Member
    from Canada

    Hey guys, thanks for input, I am just looking for that old car shine, in my eyes ,old car cars should look old looking, imho:)
     
  18. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    Yep, it sure ain't cheap. Last time we bought just the catalyst it was $110 per quart. :eek: I have the remainder in the fridge at the shop to try to get it to be ok the next time I use it.

    Don
     
  19. Algon
    Joined: Mar 12, 2007
    Posts: 1,129

    Algon
    Member

    Set any brand at any cost base clear next to buffed Imron or baked enamel and you might just get why you normally don't see base clear on top end solid color collector cars. Even the nicest clear fogs over time and adds a haze to the finish. The next time you spray clear keep that ring at the bottom of the mixing cup.... watch it yellow, maybe turn green, crack and crumble as the reducer evaporates over a few weeks.

    Urethane base clear is for production cars in production shops, cars that get driven and will benefit from UV protection and ease of repair. It lets guys that can't paint lay down metallic jobs with less Zebra stripes and you can bury multi color jobs in it but I'll take black Imron over any of the **** we spray today...
     
  20. HrdNox
    Joined: Mar 3, 2012
    Posts: 44

    HrdNox
    Member
    from utah

    It's good stuff! And it's waterproof! ( Till ya buff it ) :p
     
  21. scottb356
    Joined: Jun 10, 2011
    Posts: 172

    scottb356
    Member

    once again it's amazing how many internet painters there are. I guarantee you I can make b/c look just as good as Imron. FWIW I just did a bunch of '38 Ford suspension pieces 2 days ago with some leftover Imron I've had for a while. In a real paint booth, wearing a respirator, I still got a pounding headache for a day and a half. It's a great paint, but it's also some nasty ****. Modern Polyurethanes will looks just as good and won't f-k you up as bad.
     
  22. db300
    Joined: Oct 16, 2012
    Posts: 98

    db300
    Member

    That's the only paint we use on our locomotive and Railcar restorations. I understand it's popular with many in Hawaii on cars as it's so durable.
     
  23. inliner54
    Joined: Feb 9, 2007
    Posts: 427

    inliner54
    Member

    I spray imron a lot it's good paint but its a very high solids paint almost impossible to get it to lay out with no texture on most imron products you apply 1 cross coat for the base and clear 1.4 tip works the best. You can thin the clear with acetone, in most cases I have found that most of the orange peel comes from the base coat of this stuff. Hope this helps you.


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  24. LB+1
    Joined: Sep 28, 2006
    Posts: 581

    LB+1
    Member
    from 71291

    It was used in the painting of Airplane's, Ships, Water Tanks. IT will stop a good Respirator up QUICK! Liked to blend it on the Fords in the 70's it had that Ford Factory orange peel look.
     
  25. ago
    Joined: Oct 12, 2005
    Posts: 2,198

    ago
    Member
    from pgh. pa.

    No respirator will work with Isocyanides, only a remote air supplied mask and suit will. It will get through bare skin and through your eye openings.




    Ago
     
  26. scottb356
    Joined: Jun 10, 2011
    Posts: 172

    scottb356
    Member

    To expand on what Ago said

    Another thing few if any DIY know, is that the isocyanites are actually drawn to moisture....as in your tears. A half mask is only half effective. I have had numerous contacts ruined from painting, and my paint rep who wears gl***es, has told me he has had the paint get on the INSIDE of his gl***es, not the outside. Play it safe and get a 3M full face. It's about 130.00, but nowhere near as expensive as your future hospital bills
     
  27. You are making a mistake using Imron on your project.....
    why spray possibly the slickest wet look urethane and then sand and buff it till its duller?
    Not even considering the hazards of being exposed to this deadly ****tail,it seems silly to even consider it as a viable product as a car refinish product.
    [that is why it is banned for the purpose]
    Get an Acrylic enamel such as PPG Delstar or Dupon Centauri and a pint of hardener and you will get much better results and a 10th of the trouble and potential health risks....
     
  28. 66tintop
    Joined: Nov 7, 2012
    Posts: 450

    66tintop
    Member
    from Canada

    hey choprods- I am trying to paint my car so it looks like an old laquer job, I am a little confused at what to use, as acrylic enamel such as the 2 you suggested are also banned here in canada for about 4 years, I would be happy at this point to spray it with single stage something ,because I dont like base coat /clear coat (looks like a new car plastic look imho )I also would be wearing the lastest 3m remote air suit/headgear ,am I going to be safe?:confused::confused:This imron I have is 5.0 voc ,is this high?:confused::confused:any help would be great ,thanks====== oh and this imron I have is black and NO clear coat
     
  29. unkledaddy
    Joined: Jul 21, 2006
    Posts: 2,865

    unkledaddy
    Member

    Imron was great on boats.
     
  30. South_paw
    Joined: Aug 19, 2010
    Posts: 560

    South_paw
    Member
    from America

    You guys do know that just about every catalyzed paint has iscocyanites in it... It not just an Imron thing.
     

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