Pretty much finished cutting out the p***enger side rust last night. Wire brushed the floor and back seat support brackets as well as the package tray area and then sprayed everything with Ospho. I'll see how it looks tonight but I'm pretty sure I will be spraying another coating of Ospho and checking for spots I might have missed in the crevices.
Looking good, watch that much osfo, the fumes can be harsh. Nice replacement panels, the frame rails look good in those pics. Keep at it. Godspeed MrC.
thanks! I hope to get the floors welded in over the next few days. Then it is time to pull the column and lift the body off! I can't wait to get the frame over to my friends house and start on it. Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
that rear gl*** may be a problem but I think its the same as a station wagon or panel. were are you located if your not to far I think I my have one, its yours if you want to pay the shipping from 97420. probably going to be about 30 lbs with a good wood crate
You may have to pull the steering box with the colume and keep it in the body. I had to cut my colume and shaft, you can not remove the colume from the box its a pressed fit. several folks cut the colume 6 inches off the box, then use a steering joint to re-***emble. I went to a rack style steering and used 2 steering joints and double D shaft, and used a 3/4 bearing in the end of my stock colume and reused the inner shaft. Theres a tech on how to do it here on the HAMB, you can see it also in my build. You can get he bearing at your local NAPA store. Godspeed MrC.
Last wednesday and thursday night I wiped down the ospho prepped areas TWICE with mineral spirits (rustoleum prep instructions), let that dry, then brushed Rustoleum's rusty metal primer, let it dry, had a couple spray cans of Rustoleum Gloss Black Enamel and sprayed that on. I came back two days later and saw that something reacted somehow because I had peeling primer only in some areas (i left primer on the floor area since i'm still working on the patches) which flaked right off with my fingers brushing over it. It flaked off down to the bare steel. Then it was also waay too easy to scratch off the gloss black that i had sprayed on the rear seat area with my fingernail!! I thought Rustoleum would be tougher than that. Now i'm thinking that I should probably go back and strip all the paint back off and use a better paint system... maybe just use por-15 which I already have for my frame. I suppose the mineral spirits on the ospho treated areas could have screwed it up?? It stinks that I will have to do this over again but I was trying to save money. I don't have access to a paint booth or I would have used the professional auto paint products for this from the start. Other people seemed to have good success with just using Rustoleum so I figured I would try it. I believe I read that I should add Hardener to it to make it dry faster and a lot harder?
Would it be an issue to lift the body off the frame with out the floor pan patches welded in? I'm asking because the cross supports are still in good shape and I'm thinking about lifting it off first in order to have the ch***is work started. The only thing that seems to be an issue to me is the rocker panels are not tied together at the top by the patches yet.
I have used osfo many times, I have never wiped it down, just let it dry completely then cover with a good primer. Removing the body with out floors might be a concern ( the body twisting ) just for insurance weld some braces accross the floor openings accross the entire car side to side and front to back. this should be a safe way to remove the body without any flex. Godspeed MrC.
I am going to be moving my car out of the storage unit I have been using the last couple months and I'm taking it up to east texas to work on it in a much bigger building. Up there is an 80'x80' shop and I will be continuing my work in one of the corners and it will allow me to roll the car outside and make a mess and clean it up a lot easier. Also I need to be able to start blasting and priming and I can't do that kind of stuff in the storage unit. I will try to get the body off the frame in the next month or so but we'll see since I can't move the car up there until the 8th of march. I received my American Autowire Highway 15 harness yesterday though and I really like the kit! Very nicely made and packaged.
Jesdude, I possible, I would finish your floor pan project before you pull it. I think you would have less chance of anything flexing if that part is done. It surprising when you get to work on one of these that is cut up how flimsy everything gets.
Since you are going to blast the frame now, I would paint it with epoxy primer instead of the POR-15. You could leave it flat black or go ahead and put a top coat on it.
Well yes I meant to say that I will do that first before pulling the body off and yes I was surprised at how much the rocker panels will flex now that I have the old floor pans seperated from them. That decision is still up in the air actually as I do have all the por-15 components and a cheap harbor freight gun to spray it and the top coat of ch***is black. I will make the decision when I get to that point hopefully in the next 4-6 weeks.
Anyone know where to buy chrome bullet center caps for my stock 53 wheels? The kind that push through the back. Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
I finally got to sandblast on my firewall some today and it looks pretty good so far. I'm going to try and get finished blasting it tomorrow and shoot some black epoxy primer. Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
Here's the next day of progress. I had to spend some time taking my pressure pot blaster apart and cleaning the fittings out since water was getting through to it. I also went and bought an air dryer/cleaner ***embly and a filter to install inline to the blaster to help with that. I'm doing all this 3 1/2 hours away from houston up in east texas and I didn't realize the shop compressor wasn't set up properly with filters and drains so this ate up a lot of my time. I wasn't able to spray the primer yet either since the temps dropped quite a bit to the 40's on saturday and sunday. It could be a few weeks. I will try to do the floor pans next weekend and then the following weekend i'm headed to lonestar roundup! I can't wait
Looks good, glad for your progress. I too, would caution you about moving the body without floors in it. Also, I think you're over-thinking the frame paint. Just Rustoleumize it. It's under the car, and no one's going to see if its got runs, is gloss or semi-gloss, etc.
thanks belair. I'm wondering about the firewall ribs though. the p***enger one was torched away partially by the previous owner and I ***ume to help with getting to the starter motor or something. I have seen them removed completely on other cars and wonder how they reinforce that area when they are gone? I believe I can keep them though with my plans for the newer generation inline six 250 engine so either I will have to cut them out or rebuild them but I don't know...
I won't be using the powerglide shifter parts so If anyone wants those, pm me. I did have to cut the shaft just a little above the mechanism that straddles the column on the engine bay side of the firewall. I didn't want to break the shift indicator housing or anything of that sort and I figured the shaft itself could be easily rewelded and painted. Probably makes it easier to install too!
What kind of upgrade? I have not hears if any other brakes working with the stock sponsors without buying adaptors for the bearings. Thanks.
What kind of upgrade? I have not heard of any other brakes working with the stock spindles without buying adaptors for the bearings I hate auto correct! Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
That's the kit I'm referring to. One of the company's that offers the bearing adapters just says that it uses a 70's car rotor in their instructions (it has specific years listed). I'm actually looking into the mustang II kit by TCI now. It has a lot of improvements over mustang kits that other company's offer. My car is already all torn apart anyway and with the cost of rebuilding all the stock components adding up to over a $1000 or so then I might as well improve everything substantially with a mustang kit and make it really nice.
qoute: If you look at the rear floor pan that I have laying in the driver rear, you can see these two "D" shape indentions. I don't what the heck they are doing there but they were not in the original sheetmetal. I'm going to cut them out and put a flat piece in those spots. the pan is supposed to sit right on top of the rubber insulator strip that is glued to the top of the frame in that area. Those indentions will not let the panel lay properly on the frame or against the floor support running from rocker to rocker. Last edited by jesdude; 01-23-2013 at 12:53 PM. thanks for buying our higher quality floors ( ems automotive) the problem you are having with the rear floors are they the lower quality brand check out this floor from us www.emsautomotive.com
Here is my progress over the weekend. I have the front floor patches s***ch welded in for the most part but I forgot to take pictures of that before I left, dang it! It's nice to have the rockers tied back in to some metal for strength. Also, I finished removing things like the gas tank, rear bumper, gravel pan, bad*** air shocks (haha), and the rest of the exhaust. I made a copper tool to help with backing my seam welds using an old copper pipe fitting that I hammered flat onto a coat hanger wire. It does the trick! I also had to use a portion of the patch panel that I cut out for a toe board patch. I used a ball peen hammer and a 1/2 inch bolt with the head cut off and a decent sized bench vise.
Removed the powerglide rear torque tube guts so I could get the tube out of my way while I mock up the engine and transmission crossmember. I will be swapping out for an s10 axle that I have. I also have the engine and trans just sitting in there because I ran out of time on sunday. It looks like I'll be able to retain the factory parking brake handle and bracket and possibly the gas pedal but I might change that for a cable type pedal.
Just got this stuff in today! Red oxide Epoxy primer, Evercoat Gold, a quart each of Hot Rod Flatz Black, Red, and G***er Green Metallic, Reducers, W&G Remover, and Glaze.
Mine came from a guy i found on here in the cl***ifieds. I had them shipped by greyhound bus. I couldn't believe I actually found a decent set of club coupe seats since my car didn't come with them and the rear seat especially is hard to find since it's not made like the regular sedan rear seats. As far as an update on my car... I'm saving money up for the TCI mustang II suspension kit and I just gave the machine shop $500 for parts to go toward my 292 engine rebuild. They had to get a small crack welded up in the lifter valley area on the side of the block and that was sourced out to a local casting repair shop. The casting repair guy gave me great customer service and explained my options over the phone for the repair. The area where the crack was is really thin and he wasn't sure if it would work. He was able to get it done though and back to the machine shop for me. I also received the superior rear floorboard patches from EMS a few weeks ago and they are MUCH MUCH better than what i bought the first time. I have been busy for the last month since my dad came home from overseas for a couple weeks and then I had a camping trip with friends last weekend and now i'm going to Austin this weekend to help my brother. I need to get back to my car!! haha. next weekend then...
The Jalopy Journal
