I am replacing the eye bushings on my f100 and I'm having a bit of a hard time. What's the easiest way? By the way the springs and everything is still on the truck. Is there a special tool?
try using a drill. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3JfM_gbzkA or press them out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DMvzjVw1VM
I managed to get the enter rod out by beating on it with a BFH. When the rod was removed, I was able to get a hacksaw blade into where the rod was and cut the rubber in half.
2 things worked for me in the past, a large vise, and later, when I bought a air compressor, I used a air hammer. Heating with fire is mickey mouse to me.
Here is how I did mine on my 56 F100. 1. Cut through the metal bushing with a hacksaw cutting it into halves. 2. Soak it in PB blaster or dishwashing soap (i like the soap) 3. Place a large socket on the backside that the bushing will slide into and use a deepwell socket slightly smaller than the outer lip of the bushing. 4. Place it in your vice or press and push them out. I used my vice on my bench. It helps to have a second set of hands to hold everything in place until it is tightened up.
Getting the old one out is never a big problem for me. break it up into as many pieces s necessary. On early Fords getting the replacement in with out damaging the new one has always been the problem for me. Even with a press. I would sand the hole and use a lubricant. I have not done a 56 Ford so it may not be a problem but be careful.
I just replaced mine this week on my 66 F100. Here's how. I used a drill to drill holes into the rubber bushing thus allowing it to lose its grip on the inner sleeve. In fact, the inner almost fell right out. Then after some deep thinking and hammering with a hammer and chisel, I finally used my air chisel and 3 fingered bit( sorry, don't have a picture), which is used to slice sheet metal like butter. It removes a small kerf if you will and allowed the super stuck outer metal sleeve to be easily driven out with a hammer and chisel after i had sliced it.I then used a brake hone and drill to clean up the spring eyes. It got rid of a lot of rust and smoothed any small burs that I created. No way could I just drive the new bushings in place and my vise was no help. Than I remembered reading somewhere to freeze the inner piece and heat the outer, so I placed the bushings in my freezer and forgot about them for a couple days. I then used a heat gun, as I had already painted the springs and didn't want to use a torch, and heated the spring eye as hot as I could get it., carefully placed the frozen bushing in place and using a large socket on one end, I smacked the bushing home. Suprised me by going right in with out using my big hammer.just used a ball peen. I have to say, it worked better than I expected. Nothing fancy here, just common sense and maybe luck.
Don't know if the Ford bushings are much different than Chevy bushings but here's what worked with my two Chevy trucks. I used Harbor Freight's "3-in-1 Service Kit" (#38335-0VGA) in combination with my impact wrench for this task and it turned an all-day job, peppered with cursing, into a half hour job. Drove each bushing half way out, then stopped long enuf to insert a 5/8" short socket between the tool and bushing as a spacer since the tool's screw was to big to fit in the bushing hole. Then, one at a time, each frame bracket was heated up again with the MAPP torch, the new bushing was removed from the ice cup and dipped into chassis grease, then started by tapping lightly into place with a hammer and finally pressed home with the 3-in-1 tool and impact wrench. I didn't even burn myself! The spring eyes were done the same way.
The fronts on '47-'54 Chevies are threaded into the spring eye. Took me a lot of pounding to discover that!
Well fellas I have broughtone side to work to see if one of the techs can remove the old and press in the new. I will keep you all posted
The Jalopy Journal
