Hey everyone, I just picked up a 56 Stepside that I'm pretty excited about. I come from a "Car-Guy" family and this is my first project (20 yrs old), so I need some help. The truck already has a 78 Camaro subframe, a 5.3L LSx from a 2001 Silverado, an a 4l60e ****** in it. I still need to do the wiring, fuel system, solve the power steering issue, and work with the driveshaft, interior, bed, etc. Does anyone have suggestions as far as making a driveshaft goes? I need to mate the original 56 rear end with the 4l60e trans, so I'm wondering how I should go about doing that (companies?) I also need to figure out how to run the power steering hoses from the 78 Camaro steering box to the 5.3 pump (Custom hoses?) I am trying to locate a company that will custom make a wiring harness to fix my specific components as well (I know of Howell Industries here in MI, so I'll try them first) I figured I'd go ahead and post some questions on here to ask you veterans!
Try Street & Performance on the wiring and ditch the '56 rear. Non self adjusting and way to small of shoes, pretty weak also............................
5 lug wheels? Not original. Inspection cover on back side, not original, so a picture of the rear will help. Nice looking truck!!
www.SpeedSceneWiring.com for the harness For the PS pressure hose, your local hydraulic hose shop can put the 2nd Gen camaro end on the LSX hose for less than $30 with a swivel fitting so it'll fit easily. The original GM '55T' rear axle would have 6 lugs. With your camaro front clip, a 2nd gen camaro 10-bolt rear would give you the same bolt pattern front & rear and be the right width. S-10 rear ends are also popular. Lots of places to get a custom driveshaft, you just need to verify what rear you have. You can use any Chevy 2wd truck driveshaft from 99+ and have it shortened or lengthened and have the right yoke welded to the end to mate to your rear. Do us all a favor and toss those wheels off a cliff.
Both front and rear are 6 lug now, I believe the previous owner converted the front hubs to a 6 lug to avoid the different bolt patterns. I've been told a few times that the 56 rear end would hold up since it has the updated ******, is there any truth to that? I'm not a big fan of the wheels myself, but they aren't top priority right now, haha. I attached a pic of the rear end, its all I have right now, the truck is being delivered tomorrow, I'm just getting a head start!
I'm more focused on getting the truck running right now, that will come later for me. I appreciate the input!
Any driveline shop will be able to fab up a new driveshaft for you. Just tell them which rear you have, which trans you have, and the dimension from the end of the trans tail to the rear yoke pockets. Bring pictures of the trans output and the rear yoke. New driveshafts around here are about $150. Nice truck, btw!
You may want to check in with the TriFive ('55-'57 truck section) and Chevy Talk forums also. You have a nice looking truck but your motor, trans, electrical combo will fit in with what they deal with on a daily basis. My point was that your truck/motor/trans deserve a comparable rear end. Why throw money and time at a weak link, it's just does not "fit" the rest of the build. JMO New drive lines around here are $280-$300 Ouch!
Thanks for the compliments and help, I need all the help I can get! I understand where you are coming from with the "fit" of the build, it is definitely something I need to think about. As a college student, I've had a few cars (69 Chevelle, etc.) that I bought and sold to make my way up to what I actually wanted (1st or second series Chevy pickup) so I am trying to balance cost and quality on this build, but a new rear end is something I am already weighing. I'm always open to hear other opinions. I'm hoping what VooDoo said about the $150 shaft holds true, that would be great. I'll be sure to update my post as I do more with the truck.
Nice truck and welcome to the HAMB. You'll probably catch more flack over the wheels from the old school police here but I like your idea of getting it driving before worring about the wheels. It would look sweet with some chrome reversed wheels though. Looks like the stock rearend. They're pretty beefy. I wouldn't change until I broke it. Here's a good wiring thread called "LSX wiring for dummies" http://forum.lsxtv.com/showthread.php?p=517 If you have the driveshaft that came with the drivetrain, I'd start with that, then have it shortened. Most machine shops can do it if they want to. There are "crossbreed" u-joints available at NAPA. When I use those, I always buy an extra to toss under the seat. A custom built driveshat is usually in the $300 range. The hoses you might find through Summit, Jegs or have them custom made. I use a truck & equipment supplier called Oil Filter Service here. Keep us updated.
That link should definitely be helpful, thanks! I figured I'd come post here to bounce some ideas around with guys who know their stuff, and I have to say it was a good call. For the time being, I will probably stick with the stock rear, unless I can find a great deal on a newer one. Like I said, always open to hear others opinions to figure out what I want
I put a 8.5 rear from a 76 Pontiac Grand Prix in my wife's '57 3100. Correct width, strong, can get parts for it, and because it was from such a heavy car the brakes are 11" x 2.5". I also used a gas tank from a mid 70's chevy blazer, 24 gallons. Yea it costs a fortune to fill though!!!!!!
My local driveshaft shop will put a custom length tube between your 2 yokes for about $85 out the door. He'll toss in new U-joints for another $40. If he has to supply the yokes, add another $150-200 depending on what style. I always use junkyard/donor yokes, and tack weld a 'mock-up' driveshaft to make sure the clearances are right, then drop it off at the driveshaft shop, and pick it up the next day ready to install. The stock 55T rear will hold the power that 5.3 will put down, but I think they only came in two ratios from GM, 4.11 and 4.56, of course with an OD trans that won't be too bad, but you can always regear it with a new R&P if you don't like high rpm cruise speeds. A regear would probably cost more than just swapping out the rear with a late model GM 10-bolt.
There is a place near my house in MN but I am sure there are many drive shaft and drive train places all around. I have the original rear ends in my 1950 1 ton and my 1946 3/4 ton and they had the U-Joints in stock at the place by my house. I am sure they can fit new u-joints to the yoke on your rear axle and transmission and weld you up a nice new shaft. I would suggest in the future to get a more modern rear end if the rest of the power train is more modern. This will make it easier to get drive line parts and doing things such as disc brake upgrades (if you don't have them already) and better suspension. But hey for now, if it works, don't fix it. P.S. - I am also a young guy (19 years old) and I love to share what little knowledge I have with anyone. I have learned quite a bit while working on the 2 trucks I mentioned and a 1950 Styleline Deluxe, everything from wiring to huck style brakes. They are fun projects and they are what I live for. Good luck with your project and I hope it goes well.
looks like the original rearend to me. ith should last a while with the engine/trans setup. you will have to come up with a yoke for the trans., but most drivetrain shops should have it.
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