Lets see how you guys made your torque straps...I'm debating between a torque strap on my car or a solid motor mount on the drivers side. I have alot of obstacles in the way of a standard torque strap (oil filter, fuel filter, oil pressure line...) so lets see some pics please. My car is a 58 ford custom 300 with a 300 hp 302 and a three speed on the column. Nothing wild, just a driver that I plan to race once or twice a year. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
If it stop the motor from torquing, it does. That's actually what I was going to do, but having room issues. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
I just put a solid mount on the drivers side. I didn't get any vibrations like people said I would. My cars a T Bucket with a 350 SBC.
Early SBC sidemount type mounts and probably many others can be made into torque limiters...from memory, basically you drill right through the metal-rubber-metal sandwich. A bolt is threaded into one of the metals and backed up with a thin nut, hole through other two layers is drilled out very slightly for a free fit on bolt shank. I don't remember direction, which is controlled by where there is enough room... Head of bolt gets enough air gap to allow normal mount function li light driving, bottoms out immediately when serious torque happens. Normal vibration control remains.
Yep, did this years ago on a SBC and it worked good. There is a core plug right behind the engine mount which gives room for the bolt (or was that the nut - it was that long ago I can't remember which way round I put it).
I used a turnbuckle with a few links of chain on either side.....it's not adjusted tight....just a tad of slack. Just enough to keep the engine from tearing up driver's side motor mount. Big blocks in heavy cars tend to eat mounts....lol.
Ummm..Be carefull when I was a kid I kept breaking motor mounts on mu 67 mustang , so I made a3/8 log chain " torque limiter " and had it tight.... I ended up twisting the subframe up pretty bad, so make sure you have plenty of meat and chassis rigidity before you limit the torque...
The average street car, and especially older ones, twist and flex a lot. With solid mounts that can break things, even the block. On top of that, having one solid mount where the others are flexible can cause problems too.
It's a 302 in a 58 ford custom 300. The motor is not wild, just a basic 280-300hp/325 ft-lb I'm guessing, maybe a tad more...I'm using 84 mustang frame mounts. The only reason I need to limit the torque, is because I want to keep the three on the tree shifter. The problem, is when I wind it out I can't hit 2nd gear...the shift rods bind up. I can granny shift it, but that sucks! Because its not a wild motor I figured the solid mount on 1 side would be ok, but not sure. Thanks guys! Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
My first thought is that you are asking a lot from your column shifters long thin rods and bushings (old or new)
I think they will be ok, especially since it won't be driven very hard very often. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
If you are using Mustang mounts chances are you can get a urethane version. Maybe that will limit the movement enough without being too harsh? Is this the right style? http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4.1122 If they are that style, looks like you could stop them separating too much by running a bolt through them like Bruce suggested also.
when you depress the clutch to shift the torque don twist the engine what preassure plate do you got?maby to heavy centrifugal wheights
If I granny shift, it's not a problem, I can't speed shift it (yes, it can be done on a column shifter) the torque from cranking the motor up doesn't allow the motor to settle fast enough for the shift rods to be in place without binding. The pressure plate is a heavy duty stock replacement for a 72 f100 with a 302 and a 4 speed. It's a diaphragm style. I know I could just go to a floor shifter, but I don't want to. Tomorrow I will get a photo of the driver side of engine bay and it will show why I am having a hard time figuring out placement of a strap. The polyurethane mounts may be what needs done. -LUKEY-
Two things I have done for this situation. Drill the mount and do the nut and bolt thing. If space is a problem use a countersunk head allen bolt and or tap threads into the actual metal of the mount. Works real well and best of all it's clean looking. Re shift linkage, make some solid bushings to replace the rubber at the top, make sure there is no slop at the bottom. Sometimes the holes in the shift arms need to be resized. Either weld and redrill or ream and put bushings. Hurst floor shift bushings and wire tension clips work well. And last but not least play with the adjustment to favor the 1-2 shift. Sometimes makes getting into reverse a little harder, but you don't have to do that fast.
My Morris Minor came out stock with a torque-control device comprising an adjustable rod and some nuts, washers, rubber discs, and brackets. It had all of 49 ft.lbs to deal with, but I'm sure the principle can be put to good use. On the left of the photograph, just ahead of the battery: (Not my car, this. Mine's a bit rougher around the edges.)
Simple, easy thought; 86-93 Mustang Convertible motor mount. Ford made them beefier because the verts were the heaviest fox body platform. Even with a nasty cam, very little vibration transfer to the body. Pretty strong, ran in the high 10's with a coupe with those mounts and no issues. They are a little taller though, about 3/4 inch I think. Make sure that isn't a problem. Draw back is you may have to get them from a dealer if the local shops are only listing one part number.
I have broken a few drivers side mounts on sbf engines over the years, they usually separate between the steel and rubber. What I did when I put the 331 in my 27 was that I drilled two holes all the way through the mounts and put two 3/8 bolts and nuts in there. Now the two metal parts are sandwiching the rubber tightly in between them. I used nylock nuts so that I could control how tight I torqued the bolts. In 3 years of abusing the 27, even racing it, the mounts are still holding up great. Don Like so..........
I tied my engine down with a length of cable. The cable does not have to be anything special-the cable used on garage doors will work. I fastened one end to one of the front bolts on the LH cylinder head. Use a long bolt that can be tightened in the tapped hole & leave the shoulder exposed. I went around the bolt's shoulder & connected it with a pair of cable clamps. I was able to connect it the the frame without a turnbuckle. It will work with a little slack.
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