Brake problem, your expertise is welcome

Seems that it would have to be a fluid restriction in the left side, if fluid pressure is the same on both sides recheck your initial brake shoe adjustment. I've seen this cause the same problem. Brake return springs could make a difference but I don't think they would cause such a severe pull. I did have one doing that and it turned out to be the wheel cylinder was loose on the backing plate and when the brakes were applied it let the shoes rotate in the drum, it would pretty much turn you around in the road. Brazed the cylinder to the backing plate and solved the problem. Just my two cents worth.

 

Block the right line off and see if pulls to the left when braking.{In a parking lot}

 

You don,t say you adjusted the shoes.Are they self adjustable or manual.
You have to bring the shoes out so slight drag,manual about 10 turns from tight.
If you take a tape measure 3 and 9 oclock 1/8 less then drum.12"-1/8 =11 7/8"
Now put the drum on if it hits grind 4 chamfers on the ends of shoes.The pistons must be all the way in.The drum is your gauge.Switch the rubber lines.

 

[Post 17 You guys dont miss a thing, do you? It started about 2 years ago after I replaced the kingpins and bushings. I have been doing that to old Ford axles since 1967. I'm pretty sure I did it right.

OK, if it started when you did this ^^^ but didn't to it before you did that ^^^
It MUST be related to that ^^^ in some way.
Go back thru that bushing / king pin repair from 2 years ago and put it back like before the problem started.

There is very little chance you spontaneously developed wrist breaking brake problem after your suspension work. However , bad suspension can cause harsh wheel movement when the brakes transmittorque thru the system .

 

I think it WAS riveted shoes that did that to me. If the rivets shift, the linings will crack. Perhaps try bonded, billions of brake pads cannot be wrong.

To back up a bit, with mine, I could NOT modulate the rear brakes, either they weren't on, or the wheel was locked, and it would not unlock until I slowed nearly completely, or even stopped. If this is your issue, it almost certainly is the linings. Bonded linings will not come away from the shoe which is what causes this locking.

To wrap up, my were instantly cured with new shoes. Can't tell you if they were different, as I bought the car having new brakes, and I do not know what were used. I recall that *I* used bonded Raybestos.

Cosmo

 

A real long shot,...but are the shoe return springs all matched? if one side has weaker return springs than the other side,....that side could "apply" just a bit sooner.....possibly enough to make that side grab. Our shop always included new brake return springs, as well as shoes, wheel cyls......

4TTRUK

 

Get all 4 wheels off the ground up on real stable jack stands. Get a friend to help while one of you operates the RPM and brakes and other person watches the rear brake reaction on the out side. You will have to spin fronts by hand.

 

This should work well for the front wheels where the problem seems to be

What might work -
The remark about " rolling 3 feet " and jerking the steering wheel ????
Might take a few people.
One to hold the brake pedal or a stick - a few to rock the truck-a few to watch for strange movement in the wheels/suspension components

 

I would definitely start by checking that stuff. Maybe one of bushings is cracked or the king pin itself? It sounds like you covered the brake system 5 times over already. Start checking the susp you messed with before fault occurred

 

I read where you said you checked all the rubber lines and could see daylight through them but I have seen where after heating up the inner portion of the brake hose will swell up and either restrict the flow of fluid or completely stop the flow.

 

It's already been mentioned, but something happened when the king pins were done. Do you hear any clunking sound when the brakes are applied? If so maybe something shifting in the suspension. Or you may have a hydraulic issue. Jack up the front and pull the wheels off. Have someone lightly press on the brake pedal and open the bleeder screws and see what happens. Should get equal flow out of both sides. When you did the king pins did you happen to hang the brakes by the hoses? Could a steel brake line gotten pinched in the process?

 

I had a simular problem on my sons sedan .with a 9 inch, a few years ago. The wheel studs on the rear axle had sholders that prevented the drums from completely going flat to the axle flange. This was warping the drums slightly. The drums were new and the stud holes had to be enlarged to clear the sholders on the studs. The same thing could happen to a front hub so look at them also. It's a long shot but I am sure this will turn out to be a "How did I miss that" deal.

 

My '61 had the exact same problem. The passenger side brake hose was collapsing under pressure. Dunno why. It looked fine. Replaced what looked like a perfectly good hose. Problem solved.

 

I would look at the front drums again, measure them up to see if one is very thin and look for cracks where its pressed onto the hubs.

From there, swap the wheels side for side. Then swap the drums side for side. Swap the brake hoses next, if they're symmetrical. Followed by the wheel cylinders.

You say it happened after the king pins were done... you'd really have to shake it down to find something that was overlooked and not tightened at the time.

Bob

 

I'm going to vote with the guys who say it's a non break issue. Bill aka Tnomoldw

Radio doesn't work, must be a blown head gasket, cracked flex plate, or a bad brake hose. - BobSS396 NO ,it's the kenuter valve ! or an iregularity in the high-lift flywheel.​

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I have plumbed an oil pressure gauge into the wheel cylinder bleed hole before when chasing a residual pressure valve problem.

It obviously won't take full brake pressure, but if you have a couple of gauges lying around you will be able to see if both sides are even for the first 100 psi or so.

 

I just thought of some thing. After doing the King pins did you realign it??? If not I'll bet that the right front is pointed out a bit and when you step on the brake it just follows the direction it's pointed

 

Sounds like something to look at. did you align it? toe might be off a bit, i remember you said camber and caster were good

 

just reread post, and yes you checked the toe in and adjusted rods..
i'll keep thinkin of stuff..

 

I guess you have stock MC 57-60 and in 61-66 another juice jar cover.
It showed 2 lines my guess do you have them backwards.
Do you have switch for brakes light mechinal.

I also saw something of interest if your MC has 4 bolts,
They have a clutch master cylinder looks the same .Make sure your lines are not bent,kinked and bug in line.

 

One thing that has worked for me in the past while trying to diagnose brake pulling problems, is to drive down the road with one foot on the gas and the other on the brake. The more you brake, the more you gas it and the more you gas it the more you brake it, you get the picture. Stop and check wheel component temperatures immediately, especially the drums and if you find one hotter or cooler than the others that will help you hone in on what wheel to concentrate on. If it is suspension they will be all about the same temperature.
While working on a '39 Chevy once with the same problem it went 'Pop' very loudly and the steering wheel pull went away. Not sure what happened but the problem never re-surfaced.

Just a thought and it just costs a little time and gas along with thinking through where you can do this safely with out putting yourself in the ditch or into oncoming traffic.

Good luck

 

It turns left? Take it to a race track! STAND ON IT HAROLD !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!LOL I hope this gets solved soon, I mean, best of luck....Bill aka Tnomoldw

 

Just another thought . Did you strip backing plates off the spindles when you did
kingpins etc? Double check the backing plates are tight on the spindles and no worn or flogged bolt holes .


.

 

I put everything back together today. I havent been able to see any bad parts but the rubber hoses are a good suspect so I swapped them to the other sides of the truck.

I drove the truck across town and back and the brakes are not pulling. Thats good, you say, but Wait! Shouldnt the brakes be pulling the other way now?
I will continue to test, cautiously. I am not ready to say that its fixed because it doesnt make sense.

Thank you everyone! The HAMB is the best source of old car knowledge on the Internet.

 

I know there's no proof that the hoses were the culprit but how about just replacing the hoses. Shouldn't be too much money for your safety
Just a thought

 

Replacement? Sure! AFTER I know for sure what caused this. I gotta know

 

Ahh I see

 

Me too

 

find a safe wide gravel area for testing

back off the front brakes way back safely see if you get pull using just the rear brakes only

forward and reverse !

then try the same with the rears backed off having just the fronts working

this should bring out the evil ..

as a grabbing wheel will slide in the dirt rather than pull to the opposite side


should help ID the weak corner

power bleed every thing again and reset all shoes

good luck

 

I hope it's all better and lasts for ever.It is nasty not knowing the cause. I've had that happen a couple times. Be careful out there, it's a jungle! Bill aka Tnomoldw