Please help date this front axle assembly

I saw a guy use ac coolant to get stuff unstuck once. He would get things so cold. And they would come right out. I know it's against the law. But it worked real good.

 

date it? It's at your house just give it a few drinks

 

They got that new stuff now - spray freeze in a can (CRC?)...might be worth a try.

HAHA.....

 

Since the model a ford, all cars and trucks manufactured by ford had front brakes. The Rocky Mountain set up is typically an external accessory brake set up that was essentially left over from the model t era that would have been modified to a later axle.


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Got it all torn down today.










The wishbone has some damage on one side. When I split them I'll cut this open, repair it and close it up again.

 

I have never seen 32-34 perch pins with the centering boss for turning the threads, 32 only? Nice job on getting everything apart without damage, you done good

 

I have a few heavy 32 axels!! Didn't know they were so sought after!!

 

As noted, "Rocky Mountain brakes" is legitimately a reference to aftermarket brakes for a Model T; The term became stuck to the good heavy-iron with holes drums for Model A's, which except for smaller diameter are just like the '32's shown, but thiose are just stock 1931 drums that also became the parts-counter replacement drum from Ford.
The '32-4 drums are all like that, and the big holes even appeared on some later drums.
Hey! Do you realize how well you are doing, with those perches out by page 2 of the thread??

 

HaHa! Thanks! Too bad I rarely get lucky 2 x in a row...

Now if I could just get the king pins out.

 

I've gently torch cut or chisel cut the bearing off of the kingpin. It gives you an opening to get vice grips on it or to get a hammer and chisel/punch under it.
Not to ask stupid questions, but you do have the kingpin locks out, right? The kingpins are usually easier to remove than the perch bolts.

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Yes, they are out - as you can see below. I had to heat the axle up to get them out too!

 

Got the spindles off - one king pin literally fell out and the other needed the axle boss to be heated cherry red...

 

What your doing there ..... I hate doing ALOT! hope your's go's smoooother

 

She all went VERY smoothly!

 

The last time we did this I had an ol boy who swears he can save anything...(lots of T parts)We used a very NON aggresive technique of slow heating,useing regular oil to lube.It seemed when you reached a certain temp the just simply disipated into the pieces...This is when he said it was time lol. We used a br*** drift.
I was wondering why no one mentioned adding br*** to the end of an air chisel?Seems like a good idea to me...

 

Once the axle is heated enough it's going to come out - because the red-hot metal will just move/stretch. But you may still have to hit it pretty hard - so a br*** punch would have mushroomed a lot. I used steel and a 3 pound sledge. As for the perch bushings, once they are cut with a hacksaw blade (a la Tardell), they collapsed and popped out. I got the bushes in the spring out on the 12ton press using a 9/16" deep socket.

 

Threaded things getting beaten on should be capped, and this is easy on old Fords.
The killer things to remove are perches, rear hubs, and steering wheel...all are 5/8-18.
For the cap, you can buy a knocker type hub remover from any Model A place new for about $5...old ones are still common at fleamarket. Look at how it fits...you want a projection inside that rests solidly on the end of the part and of course tight threads.
All good brand pullers used to come with special caps for this...most rolled off under the grease rack and vanished decades ago. The knocker will need to be cut down a bit for most jobs, but it is a cheap, effective, and readily available protective shield for those olde Ford parts.

 

Thanks Bruce - good tip.

 

I still make a tool up (if I don't have one) to pull those perches instead of push them.
Pulling tends to stretch them, decreasing their diameter a couple of thousandths...
Pressing them just makes them more stubborn. (like trying to get a fat broad out of a T)

Best to slim 'er down first...

 

Good one.

 

How wide is a heavy 32 at the wishbone boss?

 

If by wide you mean top to bottom height, it is 2", along with 33-6 axles.

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On a '32 heavy, the top of the boss is actually recessed a tad, on a '33-6 light it is raised a bit since they are the same dimension there.