i have a 350 in a 32 ford with a griffen radiator and a 23 # cap .when it starts within a few minutes water starts spraying out of the over flow at the top of the radiator. it is a steady stream all the way across the blower to the fire wall .
Is the radiator supposed to have a remote expansion tank? If not are you over filling the radiator? 23# cap is way high, should be around 15#. I would try a different 15# cap. The one you have must not be sealing correctly.
What he said plus an overflow/expansion tank. Thats what fixed it for me. Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
i went from a 15 # cap to the 23 thinking the cap was weak. it is pumping water out until you turn the motor off. not just on start up
Have you changed the pulleys? If not a head gasket, the water pump could be over driven. Flowing more gallons per minute then will flow through the radiator core. It has to go somewhere so it blows the cap.
rad cap and rad w/overflow exp tanks are two separate types show us the cap in question exp tanks caps typically do not have the old style ears(are round) and open and close as needed ... to keep air out of the system the rad cap style just opens when pressure is reached both could be lever type ... my theory ? the new rad is designed with a return system neck and you are using the old style cap which does not block off the return /overflow tube at all thus pissin all the time .... rad cap testing can help if you have the right one for the neck being used, if it is a blower car timing is a big issue with absorbing heat get that sorted quick before parts fail have a separate switch for ignition so timing is not an issue at start up and a very good waterpump not depending on an over spun belt drivin unit
You could have air trapped in the back of the motor.My small block g***er had that problem .I would have to jack the front of the car up as high as I could get it before it would burp the air out and then everything would be fine.
The expansion tank mentioned above is only needed if the radiator cap is too low (like in a vette). Make sure your cap is the highest thing in the cooling system (including heater hoses) Some of the newer thermostats lack a piddle byp*** valve. This was a small hole in the side of the thermostat that allows water to byp*** a closed thermostat. You can drill a 1/8" hole in your thermostat, which will do the same thing. I think this will fix your problem
it is has a blower on the motor. it will start blowing the water out within a minute of running time. hot or cold the radiator and cap worked good in the 30 chevy. it is setting lower in the 32 than it was in the 30 chevy
In a "Few Minutes?" Could be a blown head gasket!! I had the same situation once. Engine ran fine, buy would build up pressure. Take the cap off, run it and see if it is bubbling or foaming
Remove water pump belt- remove thermostat and thermostat neck. Crank engine and watch for bubbles - if head gasket is leaking it'll show
I think we need pics or a video. Maybe you could contact Griffen. It still doesn't sound like something more severe than needing an overflow/expansion tank. What is the temperature topping out at?
it has a stock 5 blade fan off of a 66 nova and short wp. if you pull the cap off the raidator it starts pumping the water out within a minute [ before it gets to 150]. i pulled the thermostat out still does it . i pulled the heads and the head gaskets looks good. i had the heads checked and no cracks put it back together with new gasket and it is still doing it
So is the water coming out an overflow tube or past the cap? Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
be real careful with a 23LB cap on a griffin radiator ,i think those have a bonded header plate,, ??? not a welded one it will be easy to blow that out... ! and i here that it is hard to get them repaired,if they are the bonded ones.?
once too much prssure has been applied to the alum rad it will self expand the soft fins and have little flow through ....squeeze the tube openings closed ... dang it sounds like its what happened
I would run a lenght of hose off of the over flow into a container on the floor so that the hose end is at the bottom of the container and will stay submersed. Let the car run and puke all it wants till it gets up to temp, and see if it actually over heats. When you shut the car off it should **** the water back into the radiator (I think it will do this with out a sealed tank). Mine spits water into the tank every time it runs but never over heats then ****s the water right back up into the radiator when shut off. My understanding is that this is perfectly normal.
I know this sounds like a very simple fix, but I've seen the same kind of problem caused by using an incorrect water pump. A friend once used the water pump off a newer small block, one that used a Serpentine belt. He simply changed he pulley and bolted it on. What he didn't realize was that the Serpentine belt ran the water pump in the opposite direction. Instead of pumping water from radiator to engine, it was pumping from the engine to the radiator, overfilling the radiator and causing excessive pressure to build up. He blew the top hose once and split the radiator twice before the counter man at Auto Zone came up with the solution (I know--hard to believe, huh?). Just my $.02. Good luck with your trouble shooting. Jerry
would that perssureize the raidator before it gets hot? i just pulled the motor down and sent it to the shop to be magnafluxed. [going to be pissed if it is the water pump]
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