My packard was painted by the previous owner i think with spray cans but it looks as if he sanded the car to bare metal beforehand. There looks to be no primer applied beforehand. The paint is starting to crack and peel off exsposing the shiny bare metal then it flash rusts after a couple days what is the best thing to do to prevent fther problems should i sand or use paint stripper then what? is there a primer i can apply over the bare metal that will act as a moisture barrier or should i paint over the primer even tho i wont be able to do bodywork for a wile? I have access to my garage for one weekend max to get this stripped and primed. The car is stored outdoors
Jeez. What a mess. Sounds like you have to strip the ****py paint off, primer and paint the whole car from scratch. No way can you do that on a weekend. Show it to a local bodyman or painter and see what they say. Be prepared for a shock. If you can't afford to have a shop do it you may be able to fix it at home but it is a big job.
If I was in a hurry-up-mode like you described, I'd have the old paint media blasted. Then, epoxy primer the bare metal. The epoxy primer will protect the metal from oxidation and make it waterproof.
I sanded 8 coats of paint off my old truck all the way to bare metal and my buddy sprayed it but i cant find the primer we used online and i cant seem to get ahold of him he moved a wile back we did that in two days it ****ed but we got it done i think it be easier with this car since the paint is so bad i definatly cant afford for someone to paint it but i have done some painting and priming in the past and i have a nice size compressor at the shop 60 gal i think i just need the name of a cheap primer that will hold out water preferable white so i can tint it blue. and anyone have any luck with that aircraft paint stripper i think it would take the paint off pretty easy since its so bad. how hard is it to neautralize
have it blasted off but arrange with the blaster to have it ready on friday so you can tape/prep it on saturday and prime it sunday morning.
Is there any primer on the back of the paint that peeled? If so he probably didn't prep the metal. HRP
I stripped a '55 Chevy Wagon of about four different paint layers using aircraft paint stripper. It has got to be one of the messiest jobs ever. It felt like it was eating away at my arm when I got some on my wrists and forearms. It is difficult to get rid of it, especially if it gets into the seams or rain gutter. It has been known to come back and haunt you by bubbling the paint in the crevices and seams. I will never use it again!
I have been seeing TV comercials of bussinesses that use water to strip paint off cars , I have been waiting to see it talked about here on HAMB. It seems to be a good time to bring the subject up. Bill aka Tnomoldw
Get some KBS coating Rust seal. It will do the job for you. http://www.kbs-coatings.com/RustSeal.html
Epoxy primer will last way way longer that etch primer will. Strip the steel as clean as you can. Sand all the old paint and primer off, then scrub the steel with degreaser and a red scuff pad. You will know when its clean when you wipe the panel off and little to nothing transfers to the rag. Then spray your epoxy primer over it. That is THE CLEANEST you can get your panel and best way to make your paint job last
Sounds like a POR-15 product. Fine for the ch***is and underside of body panels. Doubt I'd use it on the exterior of a car body.
I just used "Rust Seal" by Sem ( not Rust Mort by the same company) in the last few days on the surface rust on my 37 project and it works GREAT! It changes the rust into a hard black surface and seals it. the instructions say it doesn't need to be rinsed, doesn't need to be covered or painted and takes to primer / paint prepping etc with no problems. Well worth it.
International HS670 is a very good epoxy primer but it sprays like snot. I prefer PPG's Delfleet F3997. It sprays good, and sands good.
Thanks for the tips i guess aircraft stripper is out they used no primer whatsoever dont even seem like they scuffed the metal. anyone use the kustom shops white epoxy primer? And how would i go about tinting it just buy some blue paint from the same manufacturer? never done it befire but i heard it could be done. it be nice to have it in all baby blue primer while im working on it and not have it rust away before my eyes like its starting to.
Lots of issues here. First stripping....if the paint is that bad, you might just get most of it off using a razor blade. Chemical stripping has it's uses, but is very messy, and you have to get off EVERY speck of it, or the paint you apply over it, won't harden. a DA with 80 grit is good for stripping thin paint off, or finishing up your job. A paint stripping disc is what I seem to use most nowadays, fast, but doesn't damage metal, just makes some dust. Metal protection. NO primer is water proof. Primer is made to be porous, to a degree, so paint sticks to it (to generalize). Some epoxies have more water resistance than others. Some you can put body filler over, some you can't. I've sanded off primer on some cars that looked good, just to find rust forming underneath. Etch primers, lacquers, even some urethanes have less water resistance than epoxies. Avoid them if the car is outside. I'd be wary of keeping a car in epoxy outside for more than 6 months, as well. For maximum protection, esp. outdoor storage,I'd use epoxy primer, with a light coat or 2 of paint on top. Easy to grind or sand off when it comes time to do your bodywork. I'd probably find some lacquer, as it is the easiest, thinnes paint to sand off. The only issue with epoxy is that you said you have rust forming where the paint peeled away. The rust needs to be adressed, but using an acid based metal prep might not work with your epoxy primer. Refer to your tech sheets to see if it is compatible. If not, you need to find another way to remove the rust before epoxying.
If the paint is as bad as you say a pressure washer will remove most of it. Of course you have to follow it up with cleaning and drying, all that water on bare steel is not good. What year and model of Packard?
Epoxy primer is great stuff , but a word of caution : It must be topcoated very soon after application! That stuff hardens to a rock hard surface which must be sanded well to promote "tooth" for the topcoat to adhere to. Clean your equipment right away with acetone or you will have a gun full of solid epoxy. Are you sure you dont want to let a pro do the job ? Any Packard is worthy of the best ! You can spray trouble spots with Rustoleum industrial red enamel for rusty metal...to control till you save the bucks up for a real paint job. flop
Cant afford to get a pro to do it this is just a cheap fun car to run around for a season or two its a 4 door so its not a big money car but im 25 with a 18 month old and a mortgage to pay so its just spare time and money type of project i tend to trade and swap alot so i dont know how long ill even have the car i have a garage but its only a one car and i have a truck in there that im getting payed to work on so itll be 3 or 4 months till it can be inside i just want to stop the rust till i can get it inside to do a proper home paint job or at least get it strait and send it to macco heres some pics
if you use Capt. Lee's stripper its not messy. Spray it on and hose it off. Water neutralizes it. it doesn't turn the paint into a slimy mess....instead breaks up into little chips. Kind of amazing to watch. looks like a special effect from a modern sci-fi movie.
I just read up on Capt. Lee's Auto Spra'-Strip. Sounds like a great product. Popular with corvette owners. You can only buy it on line. Several websites sell it at $32.95 gallon. Vendors say it takes about two gallons if the car has two coats of paint. I may give it a try on my '64 step side. I'd be worried about it getting behind the bolt on fenders and in the rain gutter, and body emblems or molding. May come back and haunt you. The description says it will remove body filler Could therefore create more work in the end.
That sounds perfect i think i may try it i dont mind it removing body filler i was gona sand it out anyway to see whats underneath. hopefully no bad suprises. Do you guys think i cant get 4 to 5 months in epoxy primer before i reprime and paint without any ill effects? My old truck sat in the weatger for 3 years with no rust showing but it was very chalky and faded
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