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1953 Chevy hardtop rear baged triangulated 4 link build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by maxpowervtwin, Feb 5, 2013.

  1. maxpowervtwin
    Joined: May 29, 2009
    Posts: 53

    maxpowervtwin
    Member

    NOT A HARDTOP MY BAD I HAVE A LIL FINGER TWITCH SOMETIMES LOL
    53 chevy rear triangulated four link on air bags laying frame.
    8.8 ford rear end
    slam specialties bags [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2013
  2. maxpowervtwin
    Joined: May 29, 2009
    Posts: 53

    maxpowervtwin
    Member

  3. maxpowervtwin
    Joined: May 29, 2009
    Posts: 53

    maxpowervtwin
    Member

  4. maxpowervtwin
    Joined: May 29, 2009
    Posts: 53

    maxpowervtwin
    Member

  5. maxpowervtwin
    Joined: May 29, 2009
    Posts: 53

    maxpowervtwin
    Member

    [​IMG]
    I still need to finish tacking and welding.
     
  6. fastcar1953
    Joined: Oct 23, 2009
    Posts: 3,971

    fastcar1953
    Member

    looks good so far.
     
  7. maxpowervtwin
    Joined: May 29, 2009
    Posts: 53

    maxpowervtwin
    Member

  8. maxpowervtwin
    Joined: May 29, 2009
    Posts: 53

    maxpowervtwin
    Member

  9. volksjunky
    Joined: Oct 23, 2007
    Posts: 213

    volksjunky
    Member

    Nice work ! From what I can see, your car is not a hard top though ...
     
  10. maxpowervtwin
    Joined: May 29, 2009
    Posts: 53

    maxpowervtwin
    Member

    LOL woops.
     
  11. ftwmfer
    Joined: Jan 24, 2013
    Posts: 79

    ftwmfer
    Member
    from Orange Ca

  12. maxpowervtwin
    Joined: May 29, 2009
    Posts: 53

    maxpowervtwin
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Custom tranny tunnel.
     
  13. bobafet1
    Joined: Jul 24, 2009
    Posts: 121

    bobafet1
    Member

    Is the driveshaft tunnel necessary??

    I'm looking to do the same thing to my 53 and was trying to stay away from having to cut up the trunk and insert a tunnel. I don't need to hit the ground, just want to be a few inches above the ground.
     
  14. maxpowervtwin
    Joined: May 29, 2009
    Posts: 53

    maxpowervtwin
    Member

    You can get it lower but it all depends on how low you want and rear end you wanted to run the 8.8 is offset to the right And some what centered so I had to cut the tunnel more than if you were to use a s10 10 bolt which is significantly weaker then the 8.8. this car is running a 6 speed auto which is a huge tranny that's why the tunnel so big on this Car.
     
  15. maxpowervtwin
    Joined: May 29, 2009
    Posts: 53

    maxpowervtwin
    Member

    correct me if I'm wrong I don't think you can drive two inches off the ground without cutting the wheel wells out unless you run tiny little tires. Lol
     
  16. bobafet1
    Joined: Jul 24, 2009
    Posts: 121

    bobafet1
    Member

    yeah, that's probably the case. I guess I should have said that when the car is parked the lowest I'd like to sit is a few inches off the ground. I'm fine being a bit higher for ride height. I guess my main worry is that if a bag pops I'm not going to be rubbing against the ground, possibly losing control of the vehicle, and maybe even killing someone or myself.

    I appreciate your feedback. I don't see too many 53 build threads so its hard finding someone who's done it before so I can pick their brain. =)
     
  17. bobafet1
    Joined: Jul 24, 2009
    Posts: 121

    bobafet1
    Member

    6 speed huh? You going with an LS motor? Please say yes. haha
     
  18. maxpowervtwin
    Joined: May 29, 2009
    Posts: 53

    maxpowervtwin
    Member

    Ly6 6.0l cast iron ls. Six speed auto 4.2 first gear and .67 overdrive with 4.10 rear end you get the best of bolth worlds. Im building this car to be my daily driver This car should hall ass, and get good gas mileage.
     
  19. maxpowervtwin
    Joined: May 29, 2009
    Posts: 53

    maxpowervtwin
    Member

    If its a customers car I will set up bump stops before it hits the ground. If you thinking of bagging it without taking the wheel wells out, when the bags are fully deflated your tire will be hitting the wheel well. From the chassis it might be 2" to the ground. From the rocker it would be around 3.5-4" to the ground. you are going to want at bare min and I mean min of 2.5" tire to wheel well at ride height to have a decent ride, that being said ride height will be a lil lower than stock. I would set a bump stop to keep it from hitting your wheel well. You would still have to bridge the rear and set up bags, that means cutting up the trunk area.
     

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