I have the valve spring assemblies all out, connecting rod/pistons all out, and heads off. I still have the crank and camshaft in. My question is what is the best way to remove the key in the crank to get the slinger and gear off? The gear on the cam (small one) for the distributor, how does that guy come off? Will it come off when I take the four bolts off for the timing gear on the cam? Thanks Jason
I have the block all disassembled except for the oil tube that goes down the intake. Do I need to pull that tube out? If so, what is the best way so I don't ruin the tube? Also, I have read the books and lots of threads on here. Of course everyone has their own favorite cam, Litero, 400jr., Max1 etc. I am leaning toward the 400jr, but how does it compare to the Max1? I know the 400jr sounds more lumpy, but actual performance differences is what I am curious about. Does anybody have a torque/hp curve comparison? My build is an 8ba w/stock crank, conn rods, two 97's, edelbrock intake, stock heads, T5 tranny and it is all getting slapped into a 30 coupe with no hood or fenders. My goal for the car is just to drive around 2-3 times per week and a couple of long trips a year. Thanks Jason
The oil filler tube is an interference fit, and some gentle "wiggling" from side to side should work it loose. Unless it's damaged, there's really no need to remove it, though. Cam choice,... mine was the Max 1, for nice street manners,...but it's a personal preference, as to which one to use. 4TTRUK
Not the filler tube, the oil tube that goes from the front to the back of the block to the gear. It sits down at the bottom of the valley between the lifters.
I am finally in the assembly mode of the 8ba. It ended going .030 over on bore, and .010/010 on crank. I have a few questions. I have washed the block with soapy water, used brake cleaner, and compressed air to clean the block and crank including the throws of the crank. Questions: 1. Is ISKY rev lube good to put on the crank mains, connecting rod bearings, cam, lifters, rods, etc.? Should I use something else? 2. Should I use new bolts for the main caps? Get a set of ARP or? 3. connecting rods, old nuts good, or do I need new ones? 4. Main cap bolts, do they go in dry or should I use anti-seize or lock tight? 5. Nuts on conn rods, dry, anti-seize, or lock tight? I have the thin locking nuts that go on top of the nuts too. 6. There is a bushing for the fuel pump rod, does this need to be replaced or checked before I put this engine back together? Sequence: 1. put main bearings in dry 2. put crank in dry 3. bolt main caps w/bearings on dry 4. individually plastigage and make sure each bearing is at .001 to .003 5. remove crank 6. install main bearing seal 7. install one piece front oil seal 8. lube the mains with Isky Rev Lube (IS THIS OK or do I use something else?) 9. bolt main caps on 10. make sure it still spins fairly smooth 11. Move on to pistons and connecting rods - I'm sure more questions will come. 12. Put cam and spring assemblies back in.
Your machine shop will sell you "assembly lube", or you can mix STP 50/50 with some 30 wt. oil and it will do the same job. I like to keep the rev lube for the cam and lifters. Stock main bearing bolts and rod nuts. Use a few drops of your assembly lube on the threads and under the heads to get an accurate torque. Put in the cam and make sure it turns by hand freely. Then lifters and valves with guides and springs. No gear yet. Do the crank like you said, on final torque, turn the crank 360 degrees or more after each main cap gets tightened. If it binds, you know where to look. Same with rods and pistons.
I don't think you can remove the oil galley tube, and there's no reason to unless it's corroded. Just clean it out with a wire gun brush.
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