Customs 47 Cadillac Build Thread - Not your Daddy's Caddy

Dually noted... I'm not set on anything in the concept except two things. It's going to have a chop top and I eventually want it to be painted black. And even the chop top will not be the conventional chop (I'll explain it when the time comes).

As far as wheels, I'm differently staying away from anything billet, and most likely anything large size. Leaning to wanting something in an accent color, but not set on it. Has to look vintage - old school and look good with wide whites.

Suggestions anyone? PS I not into the original sombreros...

 

I'm curious about the radius arms on the rear.
What sort of joint have you used?
As it looks now, there is huge potential for binding.
Could just be the pic but they should be longer and
line up with the inner fulcrum point on the lower control arms.
That creates a triangle.

 

Well, this is one of the reasons I hired the install to be done. I just don't know a lot about the geometry / alignment issues.

The friend of ours that did the install has built many high end rods and just about all of them have had Jaguar IFS & IRS. His son has a rod shop in Peoria, IL and many of those cars have Jag suspensions. My father has a 32 Ford Panel Delivery with Jag front and rear, suspension done by the same person over 20 years ago, and has not had a problem.

Here are some more pics...
The drivers side still has the original radius arm at the end. New ones have been made, but are only on the passenger side at this time. (the bolt holding the original arm is stuck, and I have not broken it free yet) However the new radius arm goes mount farther in at an angle (or triangle). On this first image you can see the original radius (by the tire) and if you look at the bottom of the frame rail (at the upper curve) you can just see the bracket that hangs down that the new radius arm will mount to. These brackets are welded to the 2x4 bar that connects the frame rails. And I (if I remember correctly) they use a mustang style rubber bushing.


Here is the new radius arm on the passenger side. They are at least 6˝ inward than the original arms were mounted.


Here is the arms at the differential.


Not saying you are wrong! I'm open to your opinion... Just that the installer has a lot of experience with Jags, so I'm trusting that it is right until I get it going down the road and see otherwise.

 

subscribed!

 

Ugly car.
Nice shop.


Just kidding. Hell of a solid start by the look of it. You have a clear vision of what you want when done. And it sounds bang on.
Subscribed.

 

This is what I mean by a triangle that doesn't bind.
See the red and blue lines.

 

I'd be keen to see a pic of how the front end of the radius rod is mounted and what sort of fitting is used.

Cheers.

 

I understand what you meant by triangle. I've seem diagrams like this before.

The radius arms are at an angle, they just don't extend that far. I'm curious as to the necessity as the original radius arms extended straight out, not forming a triangle. How are those radius arms any different? By the way it is mounted with it's ball style mount?

I don't have the bushings mounted yet, the arms are just laying in the bracket holes. I have the rubber mounts somewhere in a box. They look like large, oversize engine mount biscuits, where the rod will mount through the center and a rubber biscuit on each side of the hanging bracket. I was told they are from a late model mustang.

Again, this is close to the same setup we have ran on my fathers panel truck for the last 20 years without an issue. Curious to see how is works on my Cad as it is a heavier car and we did alter the frame rails, that's about the only difference.

 

Well this last weekend I started on the frame by removing the remaining portion of the original cross member. Again it was left on to hold the position of the radiator support brace. Awhile back I mounted the fenders and radiator support to see how the front wheels align in the wheel openings, at that time I also checked the position of the radiator support brace. Welded a piece of metal on the back side to hold it in place.




I trimmed off the remaining cross member. Folded the ends to create a box. Welded and grind.


I added metal bracing under the front half...



On the frame ends, I just folded the metal over.



Here is the finished Radiator support... Ready for some road kill


Spent the rest of the weekend sandblasting the body.

 

I take it then, that you cross member holding the diff head is rubber mounted?
That is the only way that system would would like Jag originally built it.

Looks good. Following with interest so don't mind the questions.

 

Love the Caddy. Gonna be a sick ride. I too am concerned with the trailing arms. Here is what Lifestylz and others may have been saying about the trailing arms. They need to create an A-arm.
The black line being the inner pivot. Red being the Jag wishbone and the attached trailing arm forming an A-arm and all rotating on the same axis.

 

Awesome!

 

keep it up man!!

 

keep the updates comin'

looks like an interesting project to me

 

Progress has slowed these last couple of weeks between birthday parties and some work on my daily driver... but I guess some progress is better than no progress!

Started out with making a cardboard mockup of my of the front upper shock mounts. With it in place I determined my shortest and longest shock travel measurements. Order a pair of QA1 shocks from work that fit within the vehicle wt. and travel requirements.

Then made a pair of the upper shock mounts...


Here is a rough idea of how they are going to look. There is a little more bracing to it than what you see here...


Started on the passenger side when my VERY SMALL tank of Argon ran out. Had to wait a couple of weeks to save up for a new large tank and will use the small tank as a backup.

So since I couldn't finish this I move to the body... With the temp going up and down the last few weeks, and with no heat in my garage (although very well insulated), a lot of moisture is developing inside my garage. NOT what you want on a bare metal, freshly sandblasted areas of the body. So decided to epoxy primer large sections after I get them sandblasted. After an extensive cleanup, I primer the firewall, cowl, Front windshield, inside dash, front portion of the door jams and inside/outside of the floors.

I'll post more pics. later tonight after I get some work done...

 

Here are some updated pics. It's not much, but it feels good to get some color on it even if it is just epoxy...

Before: Bare metal





And After: Epoxy




Still have a little more work to do on the front shock mounts, then I post them.

 

Trying to figure out how to upload pics of my series 7519...

 

From the back (way back, since it is a loooong car)

 

WOW! Nice shop and love the Caddy!

 

I am certainly glad I don't live in the Midwest (I was born and raised in Iowa, moved when I was 17), I couldn't handle the rust cuz of the humidity. I've welded in patches on the '60 Chevy wagon I'm working on, grind it down and let it set for weeks and no rust will form on it at all...we have virtually no humidity out here...check it out if you get a minnit...http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=785551

But, your Caddy is looking good...and I simply couldn't work in a garage with no heat...or no A/C...yeah, go ahead, call me a "goldchainer." LOL...!!!

R-

 

Great project. Gonna be a fun ride. Looks like your hood hinge mounting holes are identical to the ones we had to drill in the Buick body.

 

Well not as much work to show for the Cadillac.

I did finish the front shock mounts, welded another plate on the top of the cross member, and clean up some of the welds with the grinder. I'll finish the welds with some All Metal Filler before priming.

Before


After


Started to disassemble the lower A-arms and had run into some trouble. The lower A-arm are mounted with a bolt that runs through a shaft through the cross member. Both sides are seized. Ended up drilling out the rubber bushings to free up the A-arms. Bolts were still seized. Cut the bolt short on one side in order to get the A-arm out of the way. Now have to work on getting the remaining bolt out.


Got a new torch, borrowed an air hammer, and have a sliding hammer/puller. Hopefully a combination of the three will force them out. Ain't nothing come easy...

Thanks for everyone that has help with info.

 

Ya, no heat is making it hard to motivate me to get out to the garage. Just got this house/garage 8 mos. ago. Been making upgrades to the garage and heat is diffidently on the list for next year! Spending some tax money on new shop equipment - 3-in-1 metal brake, sheer & roller - Metal Shrink/Stretcher - and a bead roller.

Midwest weather is at it again...another 5˝-9˝ of snow tonight.

Looking forward to your new thread!

 

If you look at post #46, you can see some of the damage to the top of the cowl. Previous owner didn't latch the hood and it came up while driving. Smashed the windshield, caved in the top corners of the cowl, before rolling off into the passenger door. As mentioned it thrashed the hinges and some of the trim. Again, I'll have to look into the hinges that are up at my father's shop, then I'll get with you on some measurements.

 

Thanks, Bronson74
Forgot to PM you, What's the show you were talk'n about in your intro? Let me know, I might add it to my list to attend...

 

Awesome car! Keep posting!

 

Awesome project! Going to follow this one.

 

Yeah, looks like the hood did a number on the cowl. Hope the car came with a replacement. I bought my series 60 pretty much for the front clip. The frame came as a bonus.

 

Hi Jason,
Regarding the rear glass I had a 41 buick 4 door fastback here just recently, same B body style as the caddy, the rear glass from one of those should be the same. It had no trim other than the outer rim. I sold the whole roof section with the window so I cannot get a measurement but it looked the same. This is the only picture I have of it.



Here are your bracket pictures









car looks good!

Dave

 

Thanks Dave!

2 Questions: The measurement from the bottom of the bracket to the top of the bolt platform. Eye-balling it over to the ruler, looks like 1-1/2˝. Could you confirm? Also, 2 bolts on the platform, outer is for the fender, inner is for the hood spring hinge. Correct?

As for the back window, I may have to revert back to using the original Cad glass. Buick glass maybe hard to find. Like the look better. Some vendor at NSRA Nats was making custom one piece glass for the front windshields. Said they can remake my rear using the original as a template. I have lots of time before I cross that bridge...

Thanks again, Jason