I am planning on rebuilding/cleaning up my rear end this winter. I am planning on new springs and brakes too. My questions are: 1) I have never attempted something like this before, how hard can it be? 2) I know it has a crush bearing in the pinion, can this be done at home or do you need to have it pressed in? 3) or maybe I should just fix the leaky seals and leave the rest? if that's the case, what do I look for to make sure its not bad, broken teeth? I believe this has never been out of my fairlane before, approx. 100,000 miles on it. Thanks in advance for any help
I'm going through a Maverick 8" now for a future project of mine. The biggest problem I have found so far is the brake drums are EXPENSIVE (80--100 ea) so try to get yours off without damage. All the shoes, cylinders, spring kits etc are pretty much available at a good pats store. Since you will have it apart, take the third member to a knowledgeable rearend guy and at least let him have a look at it. Tim
I've always been one of those guys who takes rearends to a pro to have gears installed or pinion seals done, but I am going to attempt it on the 8 incher in my rpu project. I hope someone on here comes up with a video or some other info because I know there is some setting of the lash and pinion torque that are critical and I don't know how to do those things. I had the 9 incher in my 27 done by a pro and it leaks out of the threads on the yoke, so I will be tearing into that one some day soon too. Don Tim, check Rock Auto, they show drums for about $ 23 and they carry the rest of the parts too.
No sense in rebuilding it unless the gears are broken or there's a serious problem. I'm going through my Maverick 8" right now. Just happen to have a pic of it apart. Pull the pinion assembly (6 bolts) and replace the pinion seal. Clean everything up and check over the gears and carrier bearings real well. Replace your axle bearings and seals and put it back together. If it ain't broke, don't fix it! It'll probably last another 100K miles! Here's a tip. Rear drums off an '82 Ford F-100 pickup w/V6 are the exact same brake drums as the '74-'77 Maverick rears w/large center holes (those are the expensive ones). Same 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern too. $22.79 each at www.rockauto.com '82 F-100 drums are at bottom of pic............
The crush you speak of is a sleeve, not a bearing, and it is used to set the preload on the pinion bearings in leui of actually shimming them. There are some good instructions to be had when doing this, probably even a quick google search away. The important thing is, if you disassemble the 3rd member, keep all the components organized EXACTLY as they came out. You can recheck the play on reassembly, and you may not even actually have to reshim it if you put all the spacers and shims back where they came from. Check all your bearings for any marks on the rollers, loose or noisy bearings should be replaced. It is fairly straight forward, but if you need axle bearings, they will need to be pressed off and then back on. and you need to make sure the lash of the gears is within spec. Also you can check the gear teeth for any excessive wear or broken teeth. You will also need to refill it with gear oil when done, and do not forget limited slip addative if you have a posi unit.
You'll need a axle bearing seperator or bearing puller. You can rent one from the auto parts store or buy a cheap made in china unit. Only needs to last long enough to do the job. find a good master rebuild kit, it will come with everything you need. Bearings, seals, crush sleeve, oring. you'll need a dial indicator to check for lash. There is a you tube video on how to rebuild a 8 plus a couple of mustang and fords magazine articles. Nathan
Thanks for the replies! The Pinion seal looks to be the biggest leak. When reinstalling the pinion bolts, how much should they be torqued? I will tear into it and see what it looks like.
If i remember correctly the mustang and ford magazine gave you all the specs. I'll let you know how hard it is to rebuild in the next week or so. I have to rebuild my 64 fairlane wagon rear end. I'm waiting for my rebuild kit to show. Evil bay has a guy that sells a complete kit $95 shipped. Supposedly timken bearings too. Nathan
After '72 or '73 all Maverick rears went to 5 lug. I believe you have the smaller center hole so your drums are relatively cheap. $18 each at www.rockauto.com
If you pull the axles and remove the 3rd member. Look at the ring and pinion close for wear and chips. If thay look good you will want to check the backlash with a dial indacator and record it.Thenyou can dissasemble the unit and save the pinion shim. Cleen and inspect the bearings replace as needed.I would dissasemble the carrier and inspect the axle side gears and cross pin (seem to be high wear parts if you do a lot of one wheel burn outs) for wear and galding.When you reassemble set your pinion bearing preload (crush the crush sleeve) and install the pinion support. Then install the carrier and set the backlash as it was before dissasembly. Now if you are replacing the ring and pinion thats another story. Ifyou are just replacing the pinion seal you need to be carful you do not overtighten the pinion nut and crush the crush sleeve and put to much load on the pinion bearings and i like to use a new pinion nut when i reinsall the yoke. And make sure you pelube the bearings as you assemble it with a good gear oil.
If the Maverick 8 inch rear is a 74/77 and has 10 x 1.75 drums they are comparatively expensive from most all vendors. The number is Wagner BD60314 This seems to be 74/77 Maverick only. Another great Ford Ideal out of the 70's If it is a71- 73 it uses a more common drum that fits a number of other Fords and is half the cost. None of which by the way are any F series pickup. Blue One, here is a link to a drum similar to the one he suggested. First time I saw a F series with a 4.5 bolt circle. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=Search_C0062_1120543_3703&pt=C0062&ppt=C0009 Wagner number BD60543
Okay, got everything sorted out and cleaned up. I brought it in to have the pinion seal changed. I am ready for reassembly, question: what gear oil do I use? Also do I need to use the copper washers or should a fel pro gasket be enough on the housing assemble? Thanks in advance
Just for general information. There is a DVD by Badshoe productions that covers the 9 inch and it applies to the 8 inch. It is two disc one covering the limited slip.
Yeah, if it ain't broke don't F--- with it!! The bikers will tell ya that. Is the lube clean; not rusty or "metallic"? No odd sounds? I would definitely check and probably replace the axle bearings. But try to find genuine U. S. A. made, the Chinese crap is just that; CRAP!! I could put all that it takes to replace the pinion seal on here; but I would strongly recommend you find a REAL Ford shop manual. NOT Haynes, Motors, Jack-Off or any other after market publication, they usually get ONE little detail screwed up!! And any one that has the 8 or 9 inch rear procedures in it will work; 1957 to 1979 passenger and 1957 to 1985 light truck. And if you decide to do everything you're covered for info on that too!! The Ford straddle mount drop-out third members,(8 and 9, 9 3/4) are the EASIEST to work on!! Hell them Shiv-oh-lay dudes sure like 'em!! P. S., I don't even use bearing pullers, but that's my little secret!! ; )
I had the 9 incher in my 27 done by a pro and it leaks out of the threads on the yoke, so I will be tearing into that one some day soon too. Don Hey Don, If you remove the yoke and put a good bit of thick anti-seize on the splines and threads and reinstall the washer and nut, it will stop the leak.
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