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Tig weld or Mig welds?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by AllSteel36, Mar 27, 2013.

  1. AllSteel36
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 560

    AllSteel36
    Member
    from California

    I replace a section in the rear of my cab, via "spot" welding with my Mig, grinding down, etc.

    Now left with quite a few pin holes between the welds here and there.

    Was wondering how practical using a Tig and filler over the top would be?

    Never tried this before, of course I'll set up some s**** sheet metal first to play with, just curious before I get started is the practical?

    Thanks
     
  2. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,749

    joel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I've done that with some success, but because you have ground the mig weld you can accidentally find thin spots. turn the machine down to less than 50 amps and do small sections and hammer and dolly to control the shrink. You can also fill those little holes with the mig, but you will have more grinding after. I use .023 or .030 mig wire for filler with tig when doing this.
     
  3. Brog
    Joined: Jul 7, 2011
    Posts: 207

    Brog
    Member

    Haha that's funny cause I TIG welded 2 gas tanks halves (bike) together via fusion, now I'm thinkin about fillin the pinholes with MIG cause my TIG skills aren't up to par.


    I would say just keep Miggin it
     
  4. I use a MIG often, it is a nice Miller machine....I have done most of my metal/body work with that...however I have a brand new Miller Synchrowave that will be in action soon....I think that using a MIG is fine for body work, especially if you take your time and have experience doing so. I am able to do paper thin sheet metal work to roll cages with my machine.

    Some pay cringe, but to do patching as you are describing I would consider some of the nice high end body panel adhesives..the stuff is unreal, no heat, no distortion etc.



    I also have an ARC welder, but I mainly use that for other steel work as I build furniture from reclaimed steel, have done some sculpture etc and the ARC will penetrate this steel and leave it more on the raw side (a look I go for with this work)
     
  5. AllSteel36
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 560

    AllSteel36
    Member
    from California

    Well, least I know I'm not nuts;)

    Thanks!
     
  6. AllSteel36
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 560

    AllSteel36
    Member
    from California

    Hmmn, thought just occurred to me, I haven't ground the inside penetration welds yet...would I be better off going over them instead? And just puddling the Mig welds?
     
  7. Rat.Racer
    Joined: Mar 11, 2013
    Posts: 417

    Rat.Racer
    Member
    from Maryland

    I haven't started welding yet, does anyone have a side by side comparison of stick, tig, mig, arc and the practicality of using each one? Everyone has always pushed Mig, but I know some older folks like like stick better for some stuff?
     
  8. K13
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,738

    K13
    Member

    Not to derail this thread but don't do this. The extra thickness of material that you create by having to double up the panels and the seam between the two panes will eventually show through your paint job every time.
     
  9. AllSteel36
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 560

    AllSteel36
    Member
    from California

    Regarding the adhesive, if it were just on a newer driver, I'd have no issues, but this backseat ('42 Ford PU) hinges "up"...I ***ume for some type of table, as there are hinges just above the gas tank that fold down...maybe to create a workbench of sorts?..not really sure...but anyways, the back panel from inside the cab would be visible.
     
  10. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,590

    oj
    Member

    You could try TIG with silicon bronze rod. I guess it really depends on the quality of the TIG machine and the control you have to strike the arc.
     

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