OK, I tried the search tab first but with no results, so now I'm asking. Has anyone done bear claw style latches in suicide doors? I would imagine the front doors are pretty straight forward, but it would seem to me that the stiker for the back doors would have to be lower (their own threaded plate) to be adjustable. Front & rear strikers should not use the same threaded plate (I would think). Having voiced those concerns, the obvious next question would be which latches would you recommend. Any install pics would be tgreatly appreciated. fwiw, the car is a late 40's MoPar (don't laugh). Thanks in advance for any help.
Bear claw latches work on standard swinging doors just as well on a suicide style door. I've done many both ways as the latch doesn't know any different. As far as style? I've always leaned towards the smaller version as they fit Model A thru 34 nicely without getting in the way of the window track.
I understand your position about "latches not caring what door they're in". My inquiry is for the B pillar being as thin/narrow as it is, I would think I'd have to lower on of the strikers a couple of inches so it have it's own floating plate. There isn't a lot of room to work with in the pillar.
I think he understood you to have ALL doors open from the front, yet I think you mean to have all doors LATCH at the 'B' pillar. If so, you are correct, and I believe that the factory, on such application, also would offset the strikers, just for that reason. FWIW, three-way hearses, which need to have no 'B' pillar, so as to move the casket in through the side, latch the rear doors at top and bottom. Might make an unusual look, you think?? Cosmo
You know, if I could eliminate the B pillar, I'd love to give that a try. Well, maybe the next project. I am really thinking of cuttin out the indentation on the B pillar for the back door and lowering it to clear the latch mechanism on the rear door. It wouldn't be a whole lot, but it would allow a second/independant floating plate for the rear striker. This probably doesn't make sense to anyone but me.
I thought that I would hold off ordering the latches until I got sufficient feedback from H.A.M.B.ers. From what I have seen the larger bear claw type latches have two 'forks' (for the lack of a better term) that close around the striker, while the small (or slim line) only has one. Other than that, I can't see a whole lot of difference. True or not? I have also looked into the kits for suicide doors that resembles nothing more that a pin that would go into the B pillar. Not wanting to string anymore wiring than I have to, this is an avenue I don't really want to follow. The manual units would be inconvenient (from the front seat) to accuate. I did a search prior to posting this thread & found someone who had cut the latches out of a donor car. Buying a cordless cut-off saw would cost me the same as buying the bear claws outright, so I've pretty much ruled that option out.
The larger latch with two catch arms is a stronger latch than the single catch smaller size. There is also size difference, but mostly in width. PM me and I can give you more details, see my ad below in sig. Suicide doors is a good idea to have a secondary latch (the sliding pin deadbolt type). Just like a hood latch, you need something in case the latch should open. I have never had any troubles with the latches I sell, but for suicide doors I recommend the secondary catch of some sort just to be safe. Same with any hood application. Not that my latches are bad quality, in fact I have sold many sets to replace shitty chinese latches to avoid unwanted popping open.
The latches on Chrysler products were the best in the business, rotary door latches. A true advance in safety, which I believe started on their cars in 1940 or 41, far better than the common striker bolt/plate latches used on the competition.
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