i have a 48 plymouth project that I got recently. It has the original straight 6, trans and rear... Was curious to see what combos people have put into these cars....
What ever it is put a MoPar in it, dont ruin it by sticking a Chebbie in there...yuck! 360 are powerfull, cheap, abundant, and are easily adapted to the smallest spaces.
There a load of Threads on putting an LA 318/360 in the 46-8 Plyms with the OEM front clip. More difficult with something like a BB or Hemi. If you subframe with a Chevelle, Cutl*** or Camaro clip rear sump choices like the early hemi, Olds 455, ect fit in fairly well.
They are a difficult car to swap engines in because the steering was located to clear a six, and tends to hit a V8. Easiest is to keep the flathead six. They are a good tough engine capable of giving good service today, and not difficult or expensive to rebuild. Parts are readily available and cheap. Next easiest is to put in the big flathead six out of a Chrysler Windsor or DeSoto. They were made in sizes from 237 to 265 cu in and can be bored out to 284 cu in. The radiator must be relocated and motor mounts because the engine is 2" longer but it will fit. Trans and clutch bolt up. I hate to say it but next up is the small block chev. It fits easier and clears the steering better than the Chrysler V8s. Especially if you use the mini starter. 318 and 360 Chrysler V8s have been used but the engine must be offset 2" to the right and there is still exhaust and starter interference. The Steering box can be eliminated with a rack and pinion conversion but that adds another layer of complexity. Have heard of putting big block Chryslers in there but major butchery ensues and most of them never get on the road. If they do they are no fun to drive and usually get sold to some ****er as soon as possible. Best choice: flathead six. If you really want a V8 car sell it and buy something newer, that came with a V8. Make life easy for yourself. If you are used to driving a Corvair the flathead six will have lots of power.
I would keep the flathead 6. I've driven a few and they really aren't that bad for around town. Search on here and I'm sure there is a way to swap a T-5 behind it, and I've heard explorer rear ends are a good fit( and they get you discs.) Put some discs on front then and you're good to go! Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
The Chrysler "spitfire" engines were a very popular upgrade to the weak Plym/Dodges.. The Spitfire is a 6 cyln with 230 + CID.. They are generally called the long block engines because they are a little over two inches longer than the Plym/Dodge engines.. The only modification required was to move the radiator to the front of the core support and the notching of some sheet metal to allow for the radiator relocation. I have a Spitfire engine in a '48 Dodge, basically the same car as a Plym. The Plyms/Dodges were sold in Canada, and other areas of the world as Chrysler's/Desoto's, therefore the frames were drilled to fit the Spitfire engines..
My 47 has a SBC. Several guys have done these with 318's and 360's. Lots of people do a frame or front stub swap. I don't really think its necessary. The frame rails are pretty narrow, but if you do the R&P swap (which I have not cause with the SBC offset to the p***enger side and a set of 60s exhaust manifolds it clears the box) you can probably make just about anything work. Be prepared to raise the trans tunnel a little depending on what you do. Check out Butch's cool stuff I'll attach a link below he's got some killer engine/trans swap kits. If you call them they are very user friendly. He's also got lots of other good junk for p-15's. http://www.butchscoolstuff.com/store/cart.php?m=product_list&c=27 I've got a few links in my build thread to some of the swaps and tech people use. Lower it cheap! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...?t=685246Heres a shock relocation on the cheap!http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...nts+moparHeres a disc brake conversion on the cheap!http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...?t=702258Heres the Cavilear R&P steering swap on the cheap!http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ht=rack+pinion Good luck, and keep us posted! Good to see another 40's Mopar.
If your engine seems weak do a compression test. Ideal is 120 psi but over 100 in all cylinders is acceptable. Lower than that you are losing power. Those engines are foolers. They will continue to run in an advanced state of wear with no bangs, knocks or other signs of stress. They just get slower and harder to start. I know of a 41 Dodge that recently went in for an engine rebuild. There were no signs of problems except low compression and down on power. The garage called up the owner to report that the engine was not only worn out, 2 of the pistons were broken and going up and down in pieces. The owner said "but I drove it the day before I took it to the garage" They said "How, on the back of a tow truck??" LOL Owners who had the engine rebuilt report that they have plenty of power for all practical purposes and no desire to put in a different engine. Jay Leno drive report on 41 Plymouth. http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/at-the-garage/cl***ics/1941-plymouth-special-deluxe-business-coupe/
If everybody had this view there wouldn't be many V8 hot rods. So..you offset the 318 a little, use a certain ex man on the drivers side & make a dent in the p*** side firewall for valve cover clearance. Big deal. Use a rear sump set up from a van or pick up & drops in nicely. Too bad he's in Pa., I've got an abandond '47 Dodge project for sale that would solve his problem.
Fellow club member Glenn Dodd has a 48 Plymouth that he has entered the One Lap of America,,it's kind of a beater hot rod but is bad to the bone, if you go to the web site there is a short video of him scaring the **** out of his daughter in at a Goodguys autocross. HRP http://www.carolinarodshop.com/ Read about it here:http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/hrdp_1106_1948_plymouth_business_coupe/viewall.html
67-68 Dodge Truck, L6 251 , modern oiling, 8-1 compression. Used in W300-WM300 "Dodge trucks continued through to 1968 with a 250.6 cid version, used in the 1961-68 WM300 Power Wagon. Richard Davis noted that this version had replaceable hardened exhaust valve seats, full flow filtering, and full pressure oiling. It had 115 net hp at 7:1 compression until 1966, and in 1967-68 it had 125 net hp at 8:1 compression. Original is at Chrysler's Flathead Engine Follow us: @allparcom on Twitter | allparcom on Facebook" Hoop
There would be more V8 hot rods and fewer abandoned projects in junkyards if everyone knew what they were getting into and did not overmatch themselves.
A friend of mine had one that over time had 331, 354, and 392 hemis. Steering clearance was an issue. What if any modification or clearancing was done to help with that I don't know. I do know that a stock steering box was used with the earlier round tube Plymouth straight axle he put in the car.
I did the unthinkable with mine. G-body clip and SBC. I drives fantastic, it's cheap and reliable. I drive it everywhere and anywhere.
With a Cutl*** subframe my '48(avatar car) took a 331 quite nicely. Another guy who had a stock front clip put a 392 into a '48 convertable, said he had to recess the firewall something like 7", that's where things get sticky vs a 318.
i helped a friend put a 318 into his `47 Plymouth using butch's mounts , fit pretty good. i believe it was offset to the right a bit. he still has the stock steering , i think it was and early 70s Duster exhaust manifold to clear it ?? with a ford explorer rear on stock springs in back and disc brake kit up front he ended up with a great cruiser
The boxy Dart/Valiant ex man is what's needed, curls right around the steering like it was made for it. If he's still in business Mr. Street Rod has all the stuff you need also, shock relocation, disk kit, mounts,ect.
I used a 318/904 combination in my 41 Plymouth which is basically the same as the 46-48. Offset the engine 3/4" to the right and use an A-body exhaust manifold. It will clear the steering. Also, as mentioned before use a truck oil pan, pickup tube, dipstick, and dipstick tube. If you go this route, pm me and I will give you more details on what worked fro me.
The rack and pinion steering kits are fairly inexpensive if you don't want to fab your own, which would give you all the room you want for just about anything. If you don't want to go the R&P rout you offset the engine to the p***enger side about 1.5 inches. Mopar did exactly that with most of their V8 A Bodies. There are "speed parts" available for the flathead but they can be a bit spendy. I have remained with the flathead in mine but it is a 57 model 230 in front of a 53 Borg Warner R10 over drive which retains the standard 3 on the tree shifting. I can run mine at 70 on the highway all day. If you stick with the flathead the best thing you can do is look for one of the OD's or swap to a T5 or some other OD transmission. Barring that a late 60's early 70's Mopar B Body will bolt in with a move of the spring perches. Runn a 3.55:1 and you would be good to go. Olddaddy here on the HAMB has basically bolt on disc brake kits. I have one on my 48 Plymouth coupe and it works great. Relocate the upper shock mount and the front suspension is good to go. There are some parts sources for the flathead in this thread. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=763715
I used a 318 with a 904 non lockup in my 1941 Chrysler royal and it was easy as pie.also used a ford rear housing
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