50 shoebox light switch question

so, when you guys changed over to 12V did you change out the light switch or run a ballast resistor? I know since I'm running the stock gauges I'm needing to run a resistor for those as well as the fuel sender...thanks

 

I used a 60's GM headlight switch. Cut the shaft down and put the stock knob-end on it.

 

I think a relay would work as well. idea is like the starter switch, reduce the load to keep the switch from burning out.

 

No need to change anything. Switches don't care about voltage, only about current. When you change to 12V, the switch will be carrying half the current.

 

yes.....if your old switch is in good shape use it

 

Ditto

 

let me wrap my head around that, I under stand Bulbs, need changed, however, gauge cluster doesn't need to reduce load? wiper motor, fuel sender and heater switch? I always thought those this wouldn't work properly

 

- Gauge cluster needs voltage reducer
- Wiper motor needs to be 12 volt unit
- Fuel gauge is part of gauge cluster, sender unit will probably work but will read "off"
- Heater switch will work just fine but blower motor needs to be 12v unit
- Starter will be fine
- Horn will be very loud but relay will burn out sooner or later

 

the power for the gauges needs a voltage drop , the heater fan motor needs a voltage drop.....the fuel sender does not , the heater fan switch does not , the light switch does not. yes....you need 12 volt light bulbs

isn't the wiper motor vacuum?

 

53 customline_ that makes more sense to me...I think eventually I'll put a 12v fuel sender in the tank, most "new cluster kits, like dolphin, send a new sender...

 

I used the GM switch becaus my syocker was cooked and I had it laying around. Didn't know you could run a 6v on 12v when it came to switches. Learn something everyday!

 

So far pretty right on advice. You haven't said if you changed your headlight bulbs to 12V or not. You must do this! In fact all your bulbs should go to 12V not 6V through a volta drop.
Then the switch should be running a relay for good long life. Also I believe you have a Vacc wiper unit not electric.
The Wizzard

 

Yes your right, front bulbs and tail will be 12v bulbs...your also, right bout wipers, they are vac, I'll figure how to run that. I've got a transplant 302 w/ a 4v carb

 

Most factory 302 mainfolds have a 3/8" pipe thread hole in them behind the carb. Generally they have a Vacc tree fitting in them for Trans modual and the Power brake hose a**** other things needing Vacc. That would be a good place to hook the wipers to. On my 51 I installed Specialty Power elect wipers. It was a bit of work but well worth it. I also installed there 3 speed with intermit switch in the stock 51 hole and used my 51 Knob. No one's the wiser. I like it that way.
The Wizzard

 

that's a great idea...

 

Don't forget alternator/generator/voltage regulator while your at it.......
And no need to change the fuel sending unit if you run a voltage drop to the gauges. There is no such thing as a 6 or 12 volt sending unit. They operate on resistance, not voltage. So as long as the voltage to the gauge is correct, the sending unit will be correct.

 

The question pertained to the light switch.