No LSRU for me

So I was installing the SBC into the 50 Ford this past weekend to get her thrashed and ready for LSRU...alas...found out that my oil pan, a standard SBC oil pan was resting directly on the steering rod....wonderful.

So I started researching what oil pan I would need, and seem to have some conflicting info, and I want to make damn sure I get it right....what early Chevy II (Nova) pan am i needing? I really dont want to fork over $300 for a pan through Jamco when I can find one in the 60-100 range....

 

Dont know what to answer on oil pan issue, but DO NOT skip LSR due to car not being done.

You'll kick yourself in the ass if you do!

 

Ok...let me rephrase....the Car and I arent going to LSRU...I will be going sans car...

 

Thicker motor mounts. Raise your engine a bit

 

Surprised you didn't already know that would happen. Oh I see your not old . Never mind. They made a dropped steering link to fix that also. When I was a kid a guy had a four door bone stocker that had a Chevy in it. From the outside the steering was the only clue. Till he took off. Go to the roundup and forget about the car for a day. I won't be there this year. Maybe next.

 

325W hit it pretty close. Back when those swaps were really common it was normal to use a dropped steering link. They usually dropped their own then but that probably wouldn't be considered the proper thing to do now.

I'm not sure about the Nova pans fitting. A modified pan might be a better way to go.

 

You still may find a Chevy dealer that stocks the front-sump pans. Get the dipstick and tube as well... and the oil pump.

I'm sure someone stocks them as after market pieces as well.

Bob

 

Yeah...I have been shopping around for the front sump pans....

I didnt think of raising the motor mounts a bit...but by a bit I think it would be a couple of inches...the Jamco mounts I bought sure bolted in...but that pan rests right on the steering arm.

 

The back in the day fix was a dropped steering link.

 

The Chev 2 oil pan with the front stump is 63 to 67 with the dip stick and oil pump pick up.

Jim

 

alumslot has the right info with one possible addition...I bought a used Chevy II pan setup at a swap meet years ago and, if I remember correctly, the oil pump body itself was shorter than a normal SBC pump. (just saw bobss396 post, I need to get glasses)!
I ended up going another route and gained pan clearance by heating and dropping the pitman arm 3/4" and extending the idler arm bracket the same amount. This combined with raising the mounting position gave me 1/4" clearance from center link to pan. I didnt have any noticeable bumpsteer problems doing it that way.
Do yourself a favor and compare different rear sump SBC oil pans...not all sumps are the same depth.

 

I have a modified rear sump Chevy pan, that was in a '64 Chevy II...the sump was notched for the center link clearance, and deepened, to keep the same amount of oil in it as stock...we just pulled it out of a friend's car who is swapping over to an LS motor, nothing wrong with it at all, it worked great for years...

...if you're interested, send me your email address, I will get you a pic and measurments...

 

Done!

 

Same route I took when I put a SBC in a 53 Ford. Cheap and easy, worked perfect.

 

The dropped tie rod is the quickest remedy and cheaper too..HURST made millions of them..or make your own.. but it sounds like to me that you want the hard way out
you are living in the town with the BEST old hotrodder in Texas,,go talk to Wayne Calvert at Calverts Automotive..

 

Take some measurements...depending on engine location, the notch in the pan and the center link may not line up.
Aftermarket Chevy II pans arent front sump, they are rear sump pans and the sump is notched from the front.
I just measured my car and there is 1 7/8" clearance between the firewall and the back of the distributor cap (stock HEI). My center link passes under the oil pan 1" forward of the rear of the sump.
Use this as a basis for comparison. I honestly think you would have to set your engine back 3" or so into the firewall for an aftermarket Chevy II pan to come close to fitting.
'52 up fords have a longer frontend than '49-'51's do, I believe this is why that pan worked for Movinman.

 

Uh.....can't we notch the pan ouselves? It isn't thast hard. Even if you ruin the first one, chevy pans are a dime a dozen.

 

Used the same Chevy II oil pan setup when I dropped a 283 in a '61 Mercedes.

 

I thought the same thing on my car, but the location I needed to notch and the oil pump pickup ended up in the same spot.

 

I have a 67 nova engine on the stand n the garage if you need pictures and measurements, if I didn't need it I would give it to you. I do have a few 4 cyl nova motors with front sumps on them if you would care to graft one together

 

Thanks guys! Even though the shoebox didnt make it I sure as hell did! On my way to South Congress as we speak! Viva la Roundup!!!

 

notched rear sump easy and cheap---have a great time...