Can you guys tell me from your experiences why you would use this stuff and where. Is the top coat and primer applications different? I just welded up a bumch of rust in some frame rails and the rails are a bit wavy in a 15 inch x 3 inc section and i have some small pits to fill. I really was considering trying a metal filler if this at all makes sense. I have a product called Alvins Lab metal, it is like jb weld in a can but is impossible to spread as a filler. I would consider buying a quart of metal reinforced filler that is mixed with a hardner. Is this stuff much stronger than bondo and fibergl*** filled bondo? I have Evercoat evergl*** which i use often and love it but for this new job i was considering trying Evercoat Metal to Metal, it is advertised as the closest thing to lead and that is a bold claim
Metal to metal would work just fine in that application. Its waterproof and sands easily. It was primarily made to coat weld seams on patch panels, to fill any pinholes or voids. Evergl*** would also work well, but its a little tougher to sand,
" i was considering trying Evercoat Metal to Metal, it is advertised as the closest thing to lead and that is a bold claim " That damn sure is a bold claim, Metal-to-Metal is bondo with aluminum shavings in it and bondo is basically pumice and pumice is basically dirt and dirt is a long ways away from lead on the elements chart.
Hey, I wouldn't have a can of this **** as a gift! Metal containing fillers have been around for decades, but have zero use in body and fender work for a guy who knows what he's doin to begin with! Cover your repair in an epoxy primer, rough it up with 80 grit paper, and spread a layer of your filler of choice & reprime. Pin holes or deep pits left in metal mean you've more metalwork to do, not filler work
The stuff is junk in my opinion and think about this it is supposed to have aluminum in it Doesn't. Aluminum and steel together start to corrode quickly hmmm if you just fill the pits with filler as long as it is prepped properly will last a long long time nothing wrong with body filler as long as it isn't put on a inch thick or used to foil rust holes I have seen some car in my day that had been hacked out with lead to soooo
Here's the deal, all these products have their place, the problems start when they are pushed beyond their limitations,which happens a lot and is why they get a bad rap. If it was me I would make sure that the metal work was solid and fill my weld imperfections and or low spots with a skim of all metal and then some kind of catalyzed glaze for finish work
do a search. this subject has been beat to death. this product and like ones should be removed from the market.
Clean the area real good and work the Metal to Metal as you would normal filler. We will all be dead and gone before you ever have an issue with it. Not every car or project has to have ultra perfect metal work. Some of us just want nice drivers and are just trying to get done and back on the road...
IMHO products like this is a marketing ploy, they sell it to people that believe anything they read! I don't see it having any advantage over a regular polyester filler, filled with aluminum or talcom powder it's only as good as the resin used. Several years ago I had a guy in my shop checking out the Vicky I just finished the body on. I had metal finished most of it, what I couldn't I leaded. He informed me the shop (a compeater) doing his 56 PU had "metal finished" it as well. I questained it since I knew the truck was rough. Turned out this shop was using this All Metal filler **** and was advertising they did metal finishing! Guess the marketing ploy goes beyond the product.
In reality, a stranded Fibergl*** product,such as Bondo Gl*** or Dura gl*** etc etc etc,is far better as a lasting repair for pitted parts that you want to use in lieu of replacing them. The perfect repair by a master metal man is best SURE-if you can afford the cost of such a repair. Often this sort of work costs more than the part is worth. I have a theory...... If the repair lasts as long as the paint over it- that is good enough till the next time it is painted...anything else is wasted time and money. Lets get real here,some parts are just not worthy of a total PERFECT no filler refinishing....so instead=If you are gonna throw it away and buy a new one that is all most can afford.
I understand the strength advantage of stranded gl*** in filler but the only thing that comes to mind with metal particles is abrasion resistance maybe, and why you need that in filler I can't imagine. If you're tapping holes in it there may be some benefit. Maybe.
Polyester resin itself is weak,adding a filler (be it talc, aluminum, or whatever) does nothing for strength as fillers get between the molecules of the matrix (resin). When you add chopped strand( as in kitty hair etc) it gets a little stronger . To get structurally strong , you add cloth or matte (GRP gl*** reinforced plastic aka Fibergl***) Epoxy resin bonds well to steel and unlike Polyester, it is waterproof. West System epoxy is available with a complete line of fillers that you add to your epoxy to suit your situation. The only thing polyester resin has going for it it that it is cheap.
This product is like any other; it has it's place and is only as good as the guy using it. It is just as easy to abuse polyester filler as it is this stuff. All Metal and Metal to Metal have there place and offer some advantages. For instance if you are removing lead filler from a body, these products do well at filling that role. If you are worried about moisture these products are better than a conventional filler. If you weld up a body seam and are still concerned about a little flex in that area, and want a filler that takes a little more to crack then this stuff is ok. There was a powder coater in town who would use a small bit of metal to metal sand it in and he could powder coat right over it. I have had people swear they can drill and tap the stuff, although I question why one would ever need to do that.
I don't and will not use it.. If the factory used lead in a seam, so do I. I've seen too many failures with all metal and duragl***. The stuff tends to ghost line. It doesn't match steels expansion and contraction rates. Paint is too expensive to buy twice.
If he is talking tiny pits in the metal after the welding, due to rust damage AND he is using the material in a very thin skim coat than I don't think a stranded gl*** filler like Kitty hair is at all appropriate as I have found that it does not like to be sanded down to a very thin layer with having rough spots due to the gl*** strands. I used All Metal in 1983 on a couple of patch panels where the welds had a little porosity. It was the lower cab corners of a 53 F-100. 30 years later it still is there and hasn't bubbled, fallen off, shrunk or anything else that would let you know it was there. And besides, when someone asks you "does it have any Bondo?" you can honestly say "No, It's All Metal!"
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