Have any of you folks had to pull a CI brake drum off a tapered/keyed axel? It's on a servicar, not a hot rod, but you guys have been around. I heard citrons have tapered axles. He's built a 1/2 inch plate W/hardened bolt, and cinched it down good, and used a hammer. It didn't budge when I was there, they also used heat yesterday and penetrating oil, still no go. These drums are like finding hens teeth, so we need to be careful. Any ideas? thanks Pat
you need a hub puller, same used on model A. you leave the nut on the axle but flush with the axle end. then hammer the arms that turn the rod in the middle of the puller. if it still doesn't come off you smack the rod right in the middle(into the axle) and it usually jolts it loose. if it STILL doesnt, then put a little heat on it. you can try to put a puller on it with some pressure, and then heat the hub a bit if you dont got a hub puller.
on that picture i posted, you tighten it down, and then smack the face/flat part where the wrench goes
Yep, 2X Put a big puller on it. Put it under tension/pressure, heat the hub a bit then whack the head of the tension bolt hard one time with a big hammer. The hub/drum will come off.
I built this, not a hub around that it won't pull off even if you have to use a little heat to persuade it..
They are held together by a wedge action and grow together over the years. You need a hell of a big puller and it will come off. Leave the nut on loose to keep the hub from flying across the shop when it lets go. Flip the nut around and put it on backwards, flush with the end of the shaft. This will protect the threads and keep the end of the shaft from mushrooming. Penetrating oil does nothing and heat doesn't do much good either.
Loosen the axle nut and drive the car up and down the driveway turning at bit. It should pop loose. Alternate: Loosen the axle nut. Get a 10-12 foot piece of chain and bolt one end tightly to a couple lugs across from each other. Lay the chain out in an "ess" shape. Grab the free end and whip the chain like a bull whip. Works pretty well.
Puller, lots of puller, and do your utmost to protect threads ! Forget oil...once the taper is pulled together, there is negative space there for either rust or oil! Time actually helps...tighten until you are scared, leave it alone for a while. Tighten some more... If you can get an early Ford person to consult it will help!
Iv actualy had luck taking the nut off and just rocking the car side to side, but then i got a puller
Thanks guys I'll look into that Ford hub puller. This thing may have the rear end locked up it hasn't rolled in 20 years. Pat
This standard 3 jaw bearing, fan puller works just fine, and it will never touch the axle threads. The 3 jaws catch the groove in the hub and the bolt presses the dimple in the axle shaft.
Ford pullers work great, i have 3 different types. If you have the ability to see the taper on the outside of the drum a trick i was taught was to heat a straight line from the tip towards the nut back towards the drum. Only that one line maybe 1/4" wide and it will expand that one area and allow the drum to pop free. Ive used this technique with great success even when the Ford pullers couldnt do the job.
gotta use the right puller. Heres a good thread http://forums.aaca.org/f120/brake-drum-removal-tapered-axle-285746.html
you guys are talking about driving it around like its a heavy car..... its a 3 wheel servicar 45 harley.... lol
Not sure if they are still available, but I bought this puller from the Snap-On truck about thirty years ago. I have to pull taper axle drums on a daily basis, and it has never failed me. One thing you don't want is too buy a cheap puller, they can fracture under load and cause serious injury. ---John
Right, thats probably not an option. Besides the rear end is locked up, he thinks they've jammed the chain up in it pushing it around. Don't know whats going to come of this, the guy who bought it has no money, so Dave just signed on to do the motor and trany. And he can't have these guys in the shop banging and heating ECT. Guess they showed up with a big jaw puller for the outside of the drum and he ran them off. I'll post up the out come, might be a while though. Pat thanks to the link to the antique forum-- good info!!
Pasadenahotrod Has Got The Answer, I Have Used That Method With The Chain Lots Of Times With Great Sucess. Good Luck.
They got it. On one side a NAPA puller and lots of heat. The other side went to a shop, 3 hours later both were off. He hasn't got the bill yet. Sorta glad I wasn't directly involved in this one. I think if I come across this again I'll try the chain first and then the slide hammer. Thanks for the help guys Pat
If they would have tried HAAG's type puller, it would have been off the first day. Haag's puller is identical (in action) to the Genuine Ford puller we had at the Frame & Wheel shop long ago. Haag's is better design, however...
My puller works like a champ... And with the actual timing gear puller bolted to it, it's multi purpose and fail safe . They have excellent threads in them
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