I am wondering if anybody could look at these build specs and give me an idea of what I might be looking at in HP/torque specs? I havn't spoken with the builder yet, just cusious if anybody has a ballpark idea. Completely rebuilt 350 engine, all parts are new, compression ratio is 9.0 to 1 w/64 cc heads, dished 4 valve relief pistons & .039 thick head gasket Bored .040 over w/cast pistons Hastings moly rings Clevite rod, main & cam bearings cast crank .020 mains .010 rods Stock rods resized w/new bolts Comp cams double roller timing set Melling high volume oil pump & shaft Comp cam #12-210-2 / .454 lift/ 268 duration / 110 seperation Heads 193's / 1988 fuel injected 64 cc chambers 1.94 intake & 1.5 exhaust Guides reworked Port work done in bowl area Prw stainless roller tip 1.5 ratio rockers Intake: new profesional products duel plane air gap #52026 Valve covers: RPC polished aluminum #r6036 New msd 8.8 mm plug wires Autolite ar133 plugs Hei distributor w/accel coil and module 15w-40 rotella-t oil New holley 670 cfm duel feed vacuum secondary carb with electric choke #hly0-80670
Only a dyno will tell you the truth.....anyone can guess...it depends on the tune..I have changed 25 HP on a dyno by just jet and timing changes....
From what I see 325 hp 340 ft.lbs but its still a educated guess.timeslips/dyno or running against a car with known hp figures would tell the truth.great street motor combination though.
Plug your specs into a computer dyno. Comp cams has a good one on their web site. Here's the generic 290 hp 350 crate engine . Thers a dyno sheet and test specs too. http://www.crateenginedepot.com/350-Crate-Engine-290-HP-HO-12499529-P10014.aspx What's different on yours and figure the increase you might get. Here's a 330 hp http://www.crateenginedepot.com/350...ith-Iron-Vortec-Heads-19210007-P9417C944.aspx Here's a 355 hp http://www.crateenginedepot.com/ZZ4...O-with-Aluminum-Heads-24502609-P9406C944.aspx I don't see you breaking 300 with your combo & I'd use thinner gaskets to get a 0.040 quench. Your 0.039 gaskets will be good if the block was zero decked.
Ditch the high-volume pump as it is not needed. Compression ratio and iron heads may detonate on pump gas. Rotella no longer has ZDDP levels high enough for flat tappet cams. My guess maybe 300 HP.
9:1 compression may detonate on iron heads? My understanding is when you get up to the 10.5-11:1 with iron heads and pump gas you may run into detonation issues.
....with a big thick quench area. Tighten the quench up to about 0.040 and it helps quite a bit. Run the quench at close to 0.060 and you'll blow it up at not much over 9-1 on pump gas
All I know on the subject is what I have read, I lack firsthand experience. If I run 91-93 octane will I be ok with the 9:1?
If the pistons are zero decked and you use the 39 gasket, all will be ok. If the pistons are in the hole, not so much.
Ok. I will have to see what the builder has to say about the piston depth. I don't think the block is zero decked. So if this motor setup isnt zero decked I shouldnt run it on 93 octane?
No ! If its not zero decked you need thinner head gaskets. Google study quench or ask your builder. Exotics aside, the block is decked not pistons.
I was tired of not having enough HP ( 290) with my 350sbc , so I bought a new GM air cleaner sticker for $4.00 at a swap meet and boosted it up to 325 HP. Same gas mielage too.
I love the coupe in your avatar. That is a good idea on the stickers. I may buy 2 and see what I can get for HP. I am not trying to get a 4000hp motor just wondering what I should expect as a ballpark. I'm not interested in 1/4 mile times just looking for a good strong motor.
I think it's all in the tune up and settings. You might see 340HP if it's dialed in right with good ignition. Odds are that 300 is more realistic, and at low RPM like 5000-5500. Lots of variables posted. As for the ZDDP content in the oil, look up the MSDS sheet on that product and take it from there. Compare it to "known" ZDDP oils like Brad Penn and the like according to their MSDS sheet. That's something you don't want to take a chance on. The cam won't last 1000 miles without enough zinc. Also, the HV oil pump, there's 2 versions. One is high pressure and high volume, the other simply high volume. You want the latter of the 2 as it takes less power to spin, and before anyone jumps in with some long drawn out engineering speak, I purposely over simplified the idea of less power to spin. Not worth the diatribe in the context of the topic IMO.
It's also sometimes listed as just phosphorous. These 2 links may help: http://www.cam-shield.com/acatalog/diesel.html http://www.shell.com/rotella/products/tpl-pro.html Here's a decent overview on ZDDP: http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/98566/zddp_when_where_what_why_how.aspx
If you want to spare yourself the time of reading MSDS's at every oil change then just use 1/2 a bottle of zinc additive with the motor oil of your choice.
I use Lucas break in Oil with my oil Change just call Lucas up & they will tell you How Much to use! and as far as HP I think you have a 300hp engine but as others have Said put a Vette air cleaner & call it a 500+ engine Just my 3.5 cents
12345501 GM Cam Pre Lube is good for break in. Oil comes in so many mixtures it is mandatory to read the product sheets (IMO) Lots of people have their favorite oils and most are probably excellent. 1100 or Higher Phosphorous/Zinc seems to be the minimum for flat tappet longevity. Looks like the VTwin Oil is the ticket for street ZDDP. Example Product Sheet.
Disclaimer; This is primarily a test of film strength and in no way is an absolute indiator of engine wear, just a slice of information to add to the pie. Motor Oil Test 1. 10W30 Valvoline NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil = 103,846 psi zinc = 1669 ppm total detergent = 1618 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 1.0 NOTE: Due to its very low TBN value, this oil is only suitable for short term racing use, and is not suitable for street use. 2. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi (.3% below no.1) zinc = 1472 ppm total detergent = 2787 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 1.9 3. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi (2.6% below no.1) zinc = 1180 ppm total detergent = 2683 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 1.9 4. 10W30 Amsoil Z-Rod Oil = 95,360 psi (8.2% below no.1) zinc = 1431 ppm total detergent = 2927 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio =2.0 5. 10W30 Joe Gibbs HR4 Hotrod Oil = 86,270 psi (16.9% below no.1) zinc = 1247 ppm total detergent = 3134 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 2.5 6. 5W30 Royal Purple XPR (Extreme Performance Racing) = 74,860 psi (27.9% below no.1) zinc = 1421 ppm total detergent = 3050 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 2.1 7. 15W40 Farm Rated Heavy Duty Performance Diesel, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF/SL, SJ (conventional) = 73,176 psi (29.5% below no.1) zinc = 1325ppm total detergent = 1593 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 1.2 8. 0W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,377 psi (31.3% below no.1) zinc = 1621 ppm total detergent = 2939 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 1.8 9. 10W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,206 psi (31.4% below no.1) zinc = 1557 ppm total detergent = 3173 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 2.0 10. 15W50 Mobil 1, API SN = 70,235 psi (32.4% below no.1) zinc = 1133 ppm total detergent = 1437 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 1.3 11. 10W30 Royal Purple HPS (High Performance Street) = 66,211 psi (36.2% below no.1) zinc = 1774 ppm total detergent = 3676 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 2.1 12. 10W40 Valvoline 4 Stroke Motorcycle Oil conventional, API SJ = 65,553 psi (36.9% below no.1) zinc = 1154 ppm total detergent = 1999 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio =1.1 13. Royal Purple 10W30 Break-In Oil conventional = 62,931 psi (39.4% below no.1) zinc = 1170 ppm total detergent = 3184 ppm detergent ppm/zinc ppm ratio = 2.7
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