Depends on what it's made from. You want butyl rubber (the gooey stuff) that acts as a vibration damper. I bought Fat Mat at about half the price of Dynamat. I also bought a roll of Peel & Seal for the small stuff.
If you put something like "grace" ice and water shield in there it's going to stink and at noxious levels in a car. I used to hate just having a roll in my box van on the way to the job. The other stuff with granular surface isn't as good. It won't stick too good either.
Try a roofing company...Roof Mart has it locally. I know guys in southern ontario using it and they say there is no odour. I had picked it up at Home Hardware for my house a few years back.
There's tons of info on using this type of product as automotive sound deadener. Some really informative and thorough , detailed. It doesn't need to be covered 100% to be effective at vibration control. Heat and cold is a different story but that's much cheaper.
I installed Fat Mat in my '58 for around $130. The 120 ft/sq kit covered the firewall, floor, back of cab, doors and kickpanels. Now road noise and exhaust resonance are both drastically reduced and the whole cab seems more solid. I plan to Fat Mat my OT Mopar this summer, IMHO the results are worth the modest expense...
It's named Peel N Seal, 100 sq ft roll for around $85. Been using it for years. I've never noticed any smell once installed.
Here's Ice and water made by Restisto. not perfect but it was very inexpensive and will do what I need it to. $40 for 2 square from roofing supply company http://www.resisto.ca/membrane-waterproofing/index.aspx
i had very good success with hushmat, that peal and seal stuff is ghetto. the dynamat alternatives are cheap enough to ignore the improper stuff. just my .02 , i know alot of people use this stuff but i wouldnt touch it. matt
Hello; All I was just browsing Canadian reviews on sounddeadning when I cam across this thread; I just bought 50 square feet of Fatmat from an Ebay seller two weeks ago for 60$ , but I've decided to go with the higher quality Megamat instead. I was going to return the Fatmat to the US seller but if anyone's interested in buying it I'll sell it for what I paid ( purchaser will have to pay shipping which could be expensive). I live in Vaughan ,Ont. Thanks Dave http://www.ebay.com/itm/120927734723?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Glad I found this thread.... getting ready to do do some interior (minimal!) work on the coupe. Was at the Charlotte auto fair yesterday and saw tons of foil backed jute type material....IIRC about 4x8 foot or so, for 20 bucks. Cheap, light duty stuff for sure, and would have to be glued down. Pops says its available from NPD. Dunno if its any good or not...maybe someone will chime in.
How much noise do you have?!?! Fix the problem...don't slobber your poor car full of TAR! You seem to think you are being cost effective and ahead of the money game. You are not! (what are you saving...$50.00?) For one thing TAR is extremely flammable and gasses off for a LONG time. Think free stone from the fumes... then push in the cigarette lighter and you blow up! Just go get an exhaust guy to put your car on a ramp and see if there are loose connections in your pipes and weld them up. Sounds like its heat expansion you are hearing (not that you really explained the issue...but a pro might be better able to ID the problem than you are yourself.) so that would be my first step. I've had the misfortune to work on a couple of beaters that idiots smeared tar all over the floor patches...it's nothing but a mess...AND a friend actually lost his shop when a buddy of his tried to weld a piece into an old Chevette and the tar someone sealed up the floor holes with lit off. Burned his shop right to the ground...just managed to roll his 'glass dune buggy out before it went up too. It was all he saved. All tools and equipment gone. You need to rethink your plans because TAR is total crap for automotive use.
I think these "mats" were invented to save some of the labor and mess of doing what you described, besides being designed and tested for the goal you wish to achieve. It's good to be innovative an inventive but success requires experimentation and measured results. I could tell you that a layer of Liquid Nails under your car's carpeting is the best and cheapest sound deadener. Are you willing to try it? If you want to save money, I have 5 gallons of roofing tar and a roll of tarpaper you can have for free. How cheap is cheap? If you can buy a decent mat for $150.00, how hard are you willing to work to save a part of $150.00??
where to start...tons of info to pass on..I'll start at the roof. I had had problems with heat causing spray can adhesives to release, so with that in mind the first thing is to make sure you use Weldwood contact adhesive. For the roof, you want the absolute lightest insulation you can find so it doesn't fall after you've installed your headliner. At Lowe's I found a roll of aluminum faced bubble insulation. about 25 bucks will get you more than enough to do a full size sedan roof. This stuff weighs next to nothing. I'm convinced many of the aftermarket self adhesive rubber/aluminum faced products are repackaged roofing materials. As said in an earlier post, roofing companys sell it in various widths. Home improvement stores may or may not carry it depending on the climate zone you live in. Make sure your mounting surface is clean before sticking it on. If it does not stick in places, heat it with a heat gun for a minute from the aluminum side and it'll stick like crazy. I used it on all my doors, side panels, and complete floorboards. On the floors, I additionally used a 3/8 jute with reinforced aluminum facing. It will have to be glued to the floor with contact adhesive. The jute/aluminum does not follow contours real well, so the trick here is to seperate the jute from the aluminum, glue the jute, then reglue the aluminum to the jute. Doing it that way will allow it to conform to even the deepest footwells. I got pics of all this stuff if anybody needs them. Additionally, my floorboards underneath (outside)have two coats of paintable undercoating
There was a big discussion on this a while back. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=711889&highlight=dynamat
hush mat is a great product i use it alot in the car audio jobs that i do. i also get it wholesale if anyone would be interested i can get you pricing on it...
There is no problem with tar/foil mats when applied properly. My '56 Caddy has at least 100 pounds of tar based sound deadener from the factory. The only pain in the ass is when trying to do body work in area where it was applied..this stuff has held up for 60 + years. Cheers,Pat
"Tar based" sound deadener, designed to OEM AUTOMOTIVE use specifications is not what he intends to use. The stuff he's talking about comes in gallon cans, stinks to the high heavens and is designed to smear on the ass end of a roof shingle. Not really the same thing. Some of the butyl wraps for home use I would certainly consider and will actually be checking out myself at a later date. Buckets of tar...no thanks! v8nova64 Re: dynamat alternatives -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So I have done some more research. What about coating the floor with tar to add mass and stick some anti fatigue mat (Eva ccf) over it to absorb sound? Would that work good as the tar will add mass reducing vibration and the mat should absorb sound?
Come on man...seriously. He's gonna smear coat the floors with TAR. Theres so much stuff out there to do the job better, cleaner and with no potential for problems at a later date. I find myself agreeing with you on a lot of posts we see here! On this one I can't believe you think this has merit even if the tar he uses smells like lilacs. I'm just trying to look at the big picture and prevent future problems...which could be multiple and hard to fix!
Here's what I can tell you. Inside of my Vicky doors had tar on them. About 3lbs on each one and under the tar was perfect 80 year old metal. Looked like factory installed to me. I can also tell you that there are different kinds of tar , this is 100% true. Some stink more than others. Some will stay ply able and sticky for ever some dont. Some start sticky and harden on there own. Some start sticky and harden after being heated Some start hard, soften when heated and return to hard when cooled. I'm working on an OT olds convertible. I swear its got product very very similar torch down modified bituminous roofing material applied from the factory for vibration and sound deadener. It's die cut to fit the areas. I don't thing GM called ABC roofing and asked for it but it is eerily close.
I had 59 ford pickup with bare metal floors. I sprayed them with rattle can bed liner, used the cheap peel and stick stuff from the hardware store, installed the standard cheap roll up automotive insulation on top of it all..It made a huge diffrence, and only cost about 50 bucks.
Why not just go ahead and buy the DynaMat I sprayed Lizard Skin in 32 3W coupe, and then used DynaMat. My coupe is very quiet inside ... and is well insulated. It is almost as good as my new Cadillac. You might save a few dollars ... trying to find something CHEAPER ... but I have found that 99% of the time ... you get what you pay for. .
Before you call me a 'nazi' USE the SEARCH engine and you will have a good chance of finding what you are seeking:http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=711889&highlight=sound+deadener
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