Projects 32 frame

sounds good, wont do the bob

 

another question. i was approached about building a set of 32 rails for a 31 rpu. what modifications if any do i have to do the rear of the frame where the box would sit

 

just found out that fastenal will ship things, so i will do some checking on prices, maybee i can get a price in 3 different directions from Minnesota, south,east,and west.

 

could anyone tell me what the dimensions would be for the front body mount holes on a 28-29 coupe/roadster. i guess center to center is what im looking for

 

You can pie cut the rear horns in front of the kick up and bring them up to level. This in efect lowers the car and leaves more room for the rear end.

 

Center to center between the 2 or from a point. Also front to back or side to side?
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All Model A's are the same. I have a 30 Sedan and I can get you what you need.

 

Try this:

 

Verno, you're correct but he's building a DEUCE ch***is PINCHED for an A.

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correct daddio, deuce ch***is for a model A. just wondering if these drawings will get me where i need to be for a 28-29

http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatalog/Tech/FrameDiagram1929Hiboy.pdf

 

i do know the pinch for a 28-29 is different from the 30-31, how much is the question

 

does anyone know where i can purchase a model A front cross member cheaper than the $85 that speedway wants

 

nice. how easy was it to get a cad file?

 

I got mine from So Cal Speedshop but was about the same price. that's the going rate. I liked the socal because it is wide enough to fit under the top plate of the rail which is how the originals were it can be riveted or welded in. I know I would prefer horns that are not boxed, and a cross member that fits under thr top lip like the original. thats just me though

 

Snow Day Jim?? haha

 

sounds good. ill take mine tomorrow, sounds like up to a foot of white **** maybee

 

me and another guy drew our own program, thats if your talking about cutting out the pieces for the frame on a plasma table

 

I just finished reading the whole post and I have to give you a lot of credit! The frames look good and when you get to the T I will be inline. I have two 27 T coupes and can get you any dimentions you want or need. Motor mounts I would add because I have Cadillac 390 motors and unknown transmissions. I have A frames now but a nice 32 style frame would look better for a highboy.

 

i have the body template for the 27 T. just need to get started on it. going to do a build thread on it so be watching

 

I don't really care for the majority of Speedway's stuff. So Cal has good products, but a lot of those come from the same manufacturers as Speedway.

There was a LOT of discussion a few years ago about Shadow Rods from crossmembers being excellent quality, might look at those. I think they cost a little more but might prove to be worth it in the time you save.

Also, take a look at the front crossmember in my build thread. Might give you an idea or two.

 

The shape of the bottom edge of a 27 roadster is different from a touring, which is different from a coupe, which is different from a sedan. You may need templates of all of them.

While you're at it, the shape of the bottom edge of a 29 roadster is different....etc.

 

Front A crossmember for boxed rails--65.00- 1" drop. 85.00-2"drop- from JW Rod garage(same place that stamps rails). I havent bought or seen these, but figure they'd be good. $68.99-1"drop from ammuscle out of Ohio. I have some of these and they are a quality stamping. These are for boxed rails. You can still leave the horns unboxed.

 

any one tell me what this is worth, thinking of buying it for a project. 36 ford coupe??

 

How's the frame? Is there a ***le?

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dont know yet, i just emailed the guy to call me. lets say the frame was good and it did have a ***le,

 

Even with the ***le and a good frame, I'd still only put it around $700-$1200

That body looks tweaked in every direction imaginable. By the time you buy fenders/hood/grille, etc. and get the body squared up, patched and floors replaced, you'll have quite a bit into it if you do your own work.

I'm guessing, based on the lower body, the frame will have typical rust problems at rear kick ups.

You'll get varying opinions on the value, but do some research on what the parts, patches, etc you will need will cost and compare that to a better 35-36 project.

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Just wanted to give a big thanks out to everyone that posted and viewed this thread. You guys were great. I think this one has come to an end. To those of you that are interested and unaware i started a new thread for a frame im building for a fellow hamber. Check it out. I hope there's as much interest in that as this one. It was great. Verno,s frame. 27 on 32 rails. Thanks again guys

 

I can't get to your facebook page....also, need your phone # please....

You called in response to my Frame Wanted Ad on Craigslist..my computer
ate my address book, need your email again..

Thanks..Les in Golden Valley
hellerlj@comcast.net

 

FWIW
You were seeking info regarding placement of sbc motor mounts using front cross
member as point of beginning.

As a word of caution, select a radiator to be used before starting any engine mounting. Ask me how I know, I had engine mounts put in and then heard of Walkers new and improved (thicker) radiator.

Car is 32, sbc, air, 400 turbo, Cooling Components electric fan.

I had to have a short sbc water pump shortened, and required using a shorter(shallower) Ford double water pump pulley and still had very close encounter with the electric fan and even with a recessed original firewall.

So far, car has not run hot but has gotten to 200 degrees and it is not even summer.

With all this trouble, I'd use a sb Ford if there were a next time as is it can be shortened about 2 3/4".

Good luck on your endeaver.

Jack

 

Im agreeing p*** the paint savings onto the buyer because it would never be the right color