So i purchased a 3sp tranny from a guy who showed me the reciept at time of purchase that was rebuilt. I didn't install it untill last year and coverted it to a floor shifter, with a orieliys kit. So once we got the motor running all ran well but now the issue is it wont catch 2nd gear. I found a local guy selling a 4sp saginaw with og brackets and all. My question is, if i were to install the 4sp would this maybe clear out the 2nd gear issue? or just take my 3sp in to get checked out and fixed? Some say it might just be an adjustment issue??? Its' on a Chevy 235?
Explain that better. Won't go (move) into 2nd, or what. Running on road, idleing,. or not running? etc
1st, count the rings on the input shaft of both Sag's so that you will know what the 1st gear ratio is as well as the gear spread. The 2.54 or so, 1st gear is the strongest Sag they made. And the 3.50, 1st gear is the weakest. And fwiw, both the 3 and the 4-speed Sag used the same case..... pdq67
sorry bout that, while driving, going from 1st to 2nd. so now just been going straight to third. Sometimes if i play with the clutch pedal it will catch, but not often yes all linkage was adjusted best we could.
Can I ask one more question... If you shut the motor off, truck sitting on flat ground, not moving...can you move the shifter into every gear without any problems, or does it take a bit of wiggle to get it from neutral into any one of the 4 gears?
Sounds like the shifter needs adjusting of it does go into 2nd sometimes. Or may have a bent fork in the tranny. Both easy fixes.
goes in gear fine with motor off. the adjusments we did as best we could, and all worked fine before we got it on the road. but thats wut my buddy said, maybe something internal?
That makes me think there is a shifter problem. Yes both problems might be internal instead, but this new info makes me want to check the shifter body for slop or something seizing up, or too much slop in the linkage rods. That trans "appears" to be a later 50s to 60s light duty truck trans, not the same case as the later truck that had a syncro on first gear.
If I was close, I would come check the adjustments. Too many words to type to tell you how it is done correctly....so, I would think there could be a youtube video on "ajusting a hurst shifter" or some other close words search. Once you are shown how to do it, it is so simple. Then you may not have to buy another trans or shifter, if that's all it needed was adjusting.
ok, well i'll prolly have to take it to the lil guy who worked on it the first time and see if he can do it, and not bill me an arm & a leg
Pull the rods from the shift arms on the trans. Move the 2 shift arms on the trans into the center position (neutral). Next move the shifter so the shift handle is in the neutral gate. Now adjust both shift rods so they will fit into the trans arms without moving the arms or the shift handle. Let us know if this fixes 2nd gear.
..and, some 3 speed shifters DO have "adjustable stops" like the Hurst 4 speed, and if the stops are way off.... also there should be a drill hole at the shifter bottom to slide a 1/4" drill through, to keep it locked in N while you do the rod adjustments.
would you have picture of your shifter? what F&J says about the pin you install to lock the shifter in neutral when you adjust the linkage, but not all shifters have that hole.
very true, and some don't have stops, but not sure if that includes all hurst models edit, I have a very old hurst 3 speed on the bench. I will see if it has the hole, I know it does have stops. i will take a pic if it has the hole
I think the shifter needs adjusted; if the floor shifter you bought is a Hurst, there should be a alignment hole through the shifter levers and the shifter body. Unhook the shifter rods from the trans and put a pin through the alignment hole to hold them , then adjust the shifter rod length until they easily slip back into the hole in the trans lever. If it's not a Hurst, buy one; you'll be glad you did. The 3 speed you have is the style with the "synchronizing drum" . the shifter needs to have a stop bolt that allows you to limit shifter travel and protect the syncro from being damaged. I put 11 of those in a 57 Chevy.
^ here is what Joel is talking about. I put the 1/4" drill through the hole. The hole is round in the 2 swinging levers, and is a half hole on the lower edge of the shift body. Put the drill through all 3. Unhook the linkages from the shifter. then adj the linkage rods with both trans levers in each middle position. You will feel it click in as you go forward or back, and another click in the middle . The rod is adjusted correctly when the shifter is in middle and that trans lever is in the middle, and the rod fits into the holes without strain. the stop bolt shown here is the front one, one is on the back too That bolt is backed out in this pic. When you get the linkages set right, then turn the bolt in to "stop" the shifter from going too far. You do this with the trans lever shifted into a gear. If a stop is screwed in way too much, the trans may jump out of gear...because it really is not all the way in gear.
If you're having a hard time getting into 2nd but not 3rd look for interference of the linkage rod on the emergency brake hardware that's usually close to the shifter. Some of those threaded link rods will stick out a couple inches beyond the shifter arm. Trim it off.
yea i would take it back.he might not bill you.ask if you can help or at least see what he is doing to it.just my .02
The pics of the "first trans" is actually a Muncie 318 used from 55-64 in both cars and trucks, and is a non-synchro first gear. The "second trans" is a Saginaw, and they are a lot stronger than the early Muncie (even the 3.11 and 3.50 first gear Vega/Monza units are stronger than the Muncie), and are FULLY synchronized. I'd use the Saginaw if it's available. I think the shifter adjustment issue has been covered, and I have nothing to add there. On BOTH transmissions, be aware that the throw out bearing collars differ depending on car/truck use, and the bellhousing "hole" used. Truck collars won't go into a car bellhousing, but a car trans will go into a truck housing with an adapter ring. You can swap collars, machine the collar down to fit, use an adapter ring, and sometimes the truck/car deal is't an issue at all. Just be aware, and check things out FIRST. Butch/56sedandelivery.
I've put 11 3spds in my 56,completly blew them up going from 1st to second,W/hurst syncro-lock linkage,the last one blew the case ,gears ,&gear oil all over the street.as well as my buddys 57.that trans has a weak syncro hub 2nd&3rd,bent up glove box doors,pulling my linkage up off the floor.to prove it.get yourself a 4spd and save yourself alot problems
thanks for all the helps so far fellas. i'm going to give the linkage a shot and see what happens. As for some of you posting that the 4sp saginaw is more better, thats another route i was thinking of taking too.
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