The engine... A 1964 Ford 2bbl 289 with 94000 miles. The Transmission... A 1964 Ford C-4 The car... A 1964 Ford Fairlane Sports Coupe "barn find" The rear axle... 8" Ford 3.00 to 1 The goal... Build the best engine for this application I can with the 1960s era parts I have. This is going to be a budget build but I want to do the best I can with what I have. I also want to stay with 60s era parts. Here is what I'm thinking so far. Stock heads port matched to the intake and exhaust manifolds. The rough castings will be cleaned up as best I can. The only real modifiations I want to make to the heads is screw in rocker studs. These heads are very close to K code style heads. I have an old Torker 289 that from the research I've done, does very well with stock Ford heads. I want to match that intakes capabilty with the camshaft, carb, transmission and rear axle. The only modifications to the short block would be flat top pistons. I may use a 302 rotating ***embly if my 289 rods and crank are shot, making a 302 in a 289 block. Induction... Here is where I've had some fun thinking this out. I keep going back to a 2bbl. I have several 2100s and I really like the 500 cfm Holley. I've thought about port matching the factory intake an doing little tricks like putting a plate under the carb. I'm also thinking about using that Torker 289 with a 500cfm Holley. It should apply all I need in my RPM range. If I go 4bbl I may use a Autolite 4100 or 600 cfm 1850 Holley. For the cam I want a 60s grind I'm thinking about a K code with solid lifters or a nostalgia type cam. I also like the Crane Fireball 294. For exhaust I've thought about port matching the stock iron manifolds, using K code irons or having some simple Y block style single pipe headers made for that tight engine bay. I want to use points ignition. Any thoughts or sugestions?
For the exhaust do what Carrol Shelby did back in the 60's and use the Tri-Y's http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pte-h8426/applications/make/ford?prefilter=1 For a cam check this out,Howard is making a hydraulic version of the Cobra cam:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-217081-13 Go with the 4100 Autolite and you'll have a good setup similar to the 60's 289 Hi-Po with the exception of your intake this Weiand http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-SMALL-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f2401df4f&vxp=mtr is a copy of the Cobra intake like in the picture below.
Since you brought up the 2 bbl here is a picture for you,1982 Ford Mustang H.O. one year only had an aluminum intake 2 bbl with twin snorkel filter.1983-85's went to aluminum intake and 4 bbl.
Thanks, I wish I could fit standard tri-Y headers to my Fairlane. The original Challenger V8 AKA small block Ford was designed specifically for little Fairlanes 62-65. The engine just fits, there is simply no room for tube headers unless you order special early Fairlane headers from Hedmon. They are pricy like $500.00 for standard tubes. Thats why I'm thinking of custom built or iron manifolds. I like the 4100 it needs to be rebuilt. It was originally for a 66 big block car so it might need to be set up for a smallblock if I go that route. I really like that RPM range on the Howard Cam you suggested. I'm also considering the factory muscle cam from Comp Cams. It is suposed to be the same as the 271HP K code cam. I'm also considering having the stock cam re-ground. It's not available for a 289 but 3 2bbl Ford 94s or Stromberg 97s would be about perfect for a 289. Thanks for the 2bbl Mustang info, I bet it did pretty well. I would guess that it would have done much better without the 80s era polution stuff.
X2 on Jeff stated!Believe it or not,that 289 is the same in all 64 Ford products,not just a Fairlane engine!If you go the 302 internals,make sure it is an early 28oz inbalance or you will have vibration issues.The 289 heads are all the same,a HiPo head just had screw in studs and spring pockets,valves and ports are identical!!The big block 4100 has just slightly large venturi,will work fine on your 289. ROY.
I don't know what you are looking to spend on the exhaust manifolds, but I think you can get reproduction K code exhaust manifolds for $200 to $250. They look so darn cool!
Another header which is an EZ fit is the HEDMAN 88400 many of us in the 52-59 Ford Group use these when swapping in a 302-351 because they hug the block and clear the steering box.Pic#1 is the HEDMAN 88400 in pic #2 the 289 Hi-Po manifolds are A R/Side and D L/Side C is a 351W from 70's Torinos,the 88400 runs $171.99 from Streetside Auto with free shipping.In picture #3 read the text there were a few rare Fairlanes with 289 Hi-Po's notice the manifolds? Before you consider a regrind Cam (budget?) Look at this:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k3601/overview/make/ford I actually have this in my own 302 and for a good reason,SBF Ford heads have always been weak on exhaust flow the extra lift and duration on the exhaust "fools" the SBF into thinking the heads are flowing better.This cam is almost a copy of the Ford Motorsports hydraulic Cam which is no longer available since Ford Racing only does roller cams these days.
Hope the block is good. The 5 bolters are tough to come up with, but very cool for period peices. Some 3.50s in 8" go along way toward moving that fairlane around. If you want to run points use an msd 6A. It takes the load off the points and they will much longer. If you want to run a 302 crank look for the good rods. They made them for the first 2 years 68-70 and the last 3 or so 93-96 maybe later in the mountaineers. They had the bridged caps like your 289 rods do. We used to run the 289 rods on the 302 cranks and modify the pistons. You may be able to buy a piston with the shorter Cd now days. The factory adjustable rockers are cast not stamped like an sbc so they will shatter if run them to hard, like doing burnouts in the rain. Be careful torquing down older manifold on the older heads as they do not have the front support as newer heads. One thing you may want to watch out for is the later intake gaskets from the 5.0. The front waterports will leak because the later water ports are bigger. In 1964 I think the Ford-O-Matic was the ****** used. The C-4 is a much better piece but I'm not sure if you can get a 5 bolt bellhousing for a C-4. Sorry its been to long since I messed with mine. Maybe someone can chime in. Hope some of this helps.
I would think that Tri-y's for a Mustang would fit. The Mustang suppliers have them for $200.00 or less.
C4 Cruise-O-Matic was intro'd in 1964 models and are 5 bolt pattern. OP says that what he has....so he is good to go. I worked in a Ford shop in that era and have always really, really liked the K code 289s! Ray
The solid lifter 289 "only" made 271bhp due to its small carb. Once Shelby fed it and exhausted it well, that's where it got 306bhp on its own. So while you may like the stock look of a 2bbl, consider you may want more than 500cfm...if you really want to explore the red end of the tach. HotRod mag last month did a dyno shootout of chevy intakes, so you can get an idea of whether you're type of single plane really wants a spacer or not. They found not a whole lotta diff between different brands of low riser and high riser intakes. 351W heads are a cheap hopup. They will have all the troubles big ports offer. If the 289 rods are salvagable, you could follow in the footsteps of a Boss302, which used the longer 289 rods. Keeps the piston dwelling at TDC while pressure builds up in the chamber before the longer rod swings out under it and out of the way.
F.Y.I. There were 5 bolt C-4s in '64. Mostly big cars, good luck in finding one!! But if I were you, I would use a later trans with the early bell housing. Go for at least a '67 up, then you won't have the "dual-range" shift of the early ones. Looks interesting what you are doing!! Dig up stuff what Dan Gurney and crew were doing for a push-rod Indy engine; 450 horse with 289 style heads!! In 1967!! "Fords don't make any power"!! Yeah, right!!
Crites restorations out of Ohio has headers for this car,and all kinds of swap kits,fibergl*** fenders,hoods,doors,trunk lids,etc... If you want to really wake up that 289,do some serious port work,especially on the exhaust side,and in the bowl area.Get a junk head of any year to practice on to get comfortable. On the intake side you can port match to a FelPro 1262 gasket,and taper in about an inch to transition. On the exhaust side I like Mr Gasket graphite header gaskets to port to.You can take a very large amount of material out of the exhaust side without damaging the head,and the exhaust valve guide boss can be COMPLETELY flattened and removed from the port roof,eliminating a huge restriction in exhaust flow. Time spent and shrinking the intake valve guides is well spent too. And smooth out and transition those valve bowls too!Its free horsepower.Do that after adding generic Chebby style 1.94"/1.60" intake and exhaust valves,and those heads will move double the air the **** stockers are capable of. For an intake,my choice would be an old Edelbrock F4B or a Cobra intake,but if you have the Torker,go ahead and port match it to the 1262 intake gaskets and use it,fo sho! As far as the cam,with small,light valves the and revs pretty hard with a hydraulic,and once the heads are ported they really wake up and run.One I REALLY like is the Isky 280 mega cam.Its a little bit hotter in every respect than Comp's 280 magnum: Isky=232 deg @.050"/.517" lift/108deg lsa Comp=230 deg@.050"/.512" lift/110deg lsa With the other parts and prep to the heads,the Isky Should have you ripping and snorting to about 6800 rpm's if you remember to put a good set of ARP rod bolts in her belly. And DO NOT FORGET to put the ARP oil pump driveshaft in it.Its $20 well spent when your oil pressure doesn't mysteriously drop to zero! In that department,a standard volume,standard pressure pump works great in these engines,and they have no real oiling issues. Summit sells very affordable roller rockers too. That got a little long winded,didn't it...?lol I've been messing around with a 66 Ford done up as street/strip car on a budget for the last 20 yrs and have found some creative (read CHEAP) ways to make power....lol Get er together and beat on it like a rented mule Brother...!!!
Ford switched from 5 bolt to 6 bolt in midyear 1964, so the OP can have either one depending on month of manufacture. As long the engine and ****** mate up then no worries. As for the dual range (also known as "green dot") C4, you can swap in a '67-'69 C4 valve body to modernize the shift pattern. Later valve bodies are different.
Come to think of it,I actually have a hydraulic cam that would work great in that motor...it's a Crane energizer 284H.....228 deg@.050"/.512" lift/112 deg lsa.You can have it if you shoot me a few bucks for shipping.Its brand new in the box,but the lifters got used in another project.Power range is listed as 2800-6200rpm.Also have some distributors and cranks/rods/carbs/etc.Let me know if you need some bits and pieces...
where in al are ya . I have a set of 351w heads, factory hi-po iron 4v intake and a 5 bolt 3spd set up (if you wanted a std trans ) I like to trade
I do have two 64 fairlane motors with transmission 1 is a 260 with 2 spd. auto other is a 289 2V with C4 both are 5 bolt
All the '64 289 motors were supplied with C4 automatics, the 2 speed was only used on the 260 and died with it. The 5 bolt C4 bellhousings aren't real common and bring a premium price I'll disagree about the Torquer intake; while it's a very good intake with a manual trans, behind an auto it will kill your low speed response and/or fuel economy.
The Jalopy Journal
