Front Shock mounts

So I am looking for some advice on my 29 Chevy, after a great day of driving after getting home last night found my shouck mount broke, so my question to some smarter minds than mine is remove them all togeather,repair or reposition them. When doing them thought good location but now I am second guessing myself, thanks for and suggestions.

 

i think i would have mounted them a bit farther out by the wheels

 

Shock bottom out during the drive? Looks like shock may need to be shorter or mounts relocated to allow more travel.

 

3 window is right, they are doing virtually no good where they are. I see a few things that are probably contributing to them breaking. Those lightning holes look good, but really weaken the mount.

 

And having the lightening hole on center with the spot where the part of the bracket turns outwards is a REALLY bad idea. All the stress is being concentrated right where the cross-section is thinnest.

 

I didnt think I bottomed out but or Texas roads are crap, so moving them to the outside of the frame and closer to the wheel might have to relocate lights then. Whats opinion on removing them all togeather?

 

You won't like the ride very much if you do remove them. They are a very important part of a good suspension system. As a test, unbolt them and go driving around and see.

Don

 

wouldnt it be bent the other way if it bottomed out? Looks like you got it all catywompus and it pulled down.

 

Removing them is a step in the wrong direction.
The bracket is designed wrong as was already mentioned.
Move them out as far as you can on the frame AND the axle and build a stronger mount without the flaws of the ones there now.

Bet that little thing is fun!!!

 

Cool thanks, I guess I went for looks and didnt think out I weakened the pieces by doing the holes, dumb mistake and not enough research on placement of shocks.

 

I think I would build new mounts, using a double-shear design instead of single-shear, and I'd mount them BEHIND the headlights, and to the bones, close to the perch pin locations.

 

thats part of hot rodding. the next version should be cool. let us know what you come up with.

 

Right, double shear instead of single.....

 

Broken shock mounts usually result from shocks bottoming or topping. axle should bottom before shocks run out of travel. Also I agree the mounting doesn't look too efficient.


Ago

 

For right now, since its spring and all-
I'd put the bracket back where it belongs and make a piece that went from the shock hole to the tube along the edge of the bracket. Weld it nice and paint it.

In the mean time I'd also start hunting some F1 mounts to put on the frame and sneak them under the head lights. Move the lower mount out board some and then determine the correct shock lenght . Then pic a rainy weekend and fix it.

 

What you have is fine. The only problem is that you can not use just a flat plate of steel. You need to weld a flat plate of steel from the top to the crossmember for a gusset.

 

This is BAD advice. Your shock placement is all wrong. Your shock will not work efficiently in the position it is at. Look at some well built cars and copy that. Move them more outboard. Throw the weirdness ratrod engineering out the window and go with something more conventional. You will be happier with the ride and they may actually work for you. Good luck.

 

Sounds good

 

There are probably over a 1,000 pics of pre-war frontends on the HAMB. Look where the shocks are on those cars and then look at yours. Basicly, where those shocks are now, they are useless.

 

Need two inches of travel at least

 

I think one of the easiest ways i've seen is to use an F1 style shock mount on the frame rails, and run your shock down to a pair of tabs welded to the side of the wishbone. Very simple and straight forward, at least to me anyway. Thats how i'm doing them on my Model A.

 

I would move them to backside of the axle, mount them to the wishbone on the bottom, and fab a combination headlight/upper shock mount. On this example, the upper mount is heavier than you need, however on this application it serves as a bumper/shock mount and also has a bolt on headlight mount, on a street/ dirt track racer.

 

a couple inches of travel, and an inch of rebound. maybe?

 

Thanks for all the suggestions, Im learning but made a few mistakes, any good metal fab guys here in DFW area that someone can suggest, I want to do this correct next time and wondered if any suggestions for a little help.

 

I have talked with shockabsorber manufures. The weight or mass of the vehicle is more important then location of the shock. It is important to choose a shock that has enough travel. It is important that the shock in full travel, does not bottom out top or bottom. Shocks are rated with different rebound rates. On a street rod they recommend a lighter rebound rate. Locations of shocks on most applications are restricked by the room thats available.