I have become the proud owner of a 1963 Avanti, which has suffered its share of bumps and bruises. I know about properly applying mat and cloth for repairs, I know zip about finishing for paint, gelcoat, spot repairs on finished surfaces.... the list goes on. Can anybody recommend a good book/etc., that may give me some insight into this mystic art? I'd rather do it myself but haven't been able to fnd any good reference
I found this on eHow. Maybe it will help... Instructions <section> 1 Grind the area around the damage with an electric grinder. Grind a little deeper than the surrounding area, so that you can sand your patch flush with the car surface and still have enough material for the patch to retain its strength. 2 Sand over the ground area with co**** sandpaper to ensure a good bond between the old and new fibergl***. 3 Cut out four pieces of fibergl*** mat. They should be the same shape as the ground area, but slightly larger so that the edges overlap onto the undamaged portion of the car. 4 Put on a pair of rubber gloves if you have not already. 5 Mix a batch of fibergl*** resin and its catalyst, following the instructions on the bottle. These should be mixed in a disposable bucket: you might be able to get cured resin out again, but you don't want to risk a container you know you will want to use again. 6 Lay the first piece of fibergl*** on a sheet of cardboard, with the others standing by. 7 Coat the first piece of fibergl*** with catalyzed resin. Tap the resin into the fibergl*** to fully saturate it and to remove any trapped air bubbles. 8 Add the second piece of fibergl*** onto the first, lining up the edges. Saturate the second piece with resin to bond it to the first. 9 Bond the other two pieces of fibergl***, one at a time, in the same way. 10 Lift the fibergl*** patch off of the cardboard by working up an edge with a razor blade. 11 Paint a layer of catalyzed resin onto the ground area of the car. 12 Position the patch onto the ground area. Smooth it around any curves or contours. 13 Apply masking tape around the edges of the patch to hold it in place and ensure that it doesn't sag as it cures. 14 Allow the patch to fully cure. When it has hardened and no longer sticky to the touch, you are ready to move on. 15 Remove the masking tape. If some sticks to the patch, don't worry. You can sand it away. 16 Fill in any remaining dips and imperfections with auto body filler. Allow it to dry before moving on. 17 Sand the patch flush with the car body. Begin with a co**** sandpaper, then move gradually to finer and finer grits. 18 Apply fibergl*** primer to the refinished area and let it dry. 19 Give the repaired area a final polish with a very fine grit wet/dry sandpaper. 20 Paint the repaired area with automotive paint. </section>
Realistically if any gel coat has been removed it will need to be replaced, this is the protective layer that gives water-proofing and stops the fibers from showing through the paint. I use a good polyester body filler mixed 50/50 with gel coat, you must use the catalyst that is for the gel, it's easy to apply (just trowel it on), nice to sand and cures nice and hard to stop that fiber print through. Hope this helps. Scotty.
I don't find working with fibergl*** to be a "mystic art." It is merely knowing material and techniques for repair work. I learned 25 years ago from a body man who happened to be a guy I shared a house with. Once I learned the fundamentals I went on to making repairs on corvettes and kit cars. I stiil own a kit car I've been making fibergl*** repairs to (see album). I've made a few molds also. Boat builders know a lot about working with fibergl***. There are a few instructional videos on you tube I've watched that are very educational on how to make fibergl*** boat repairs. Amazon sells mainly books on how to make fibergl*** car bodies. There are a few books on how to make early corvette body repairs. Very informational. Some of the more popular books (not cheap $50-125) available are:
I don't know who wrote that, but he sure never worked very much with fibergl***. You use a special roller to get the bubbles out if you want a good result. Take a look here instead. http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/1001sr_how_to_repair_fibergl***/ Didn't read it all, just took a quick look, but it seems like a pretty good guide for minor damages. For large damages, get books about repairing fibergl*** boats - those guys are used to fixing boats that has become a couple of feet shorter after running straight into something, or any other kind of huge gaping holes.
I think people need to re-read the OP, he knows how to fibergl***, he wants to know how to finish it properly. Scotty
I've looked at the OP's profile and he has not mentioned owning a fibergl*** car. Yet somehow he knows about properly applying mat and cloth. Hmmmm. I know a lot about welding, went to college and got certified in welding, doesn't mean I am a competent fabricator/welder? Experience is KING! After owning/repairing seven early corvettes, two V8 kit cars, two sail boats, I probably have over a thousand hours experience with fibergl*** making molds, fabricating components, repairing cracks, prepping for paint. Am I a pro? No. Being able to read is a very important ingredient when acquiring new skills. I have found that marine suppliers know more about preparing fibergl*** for paint than the auto body supply stores. The best instructions/methods/literature usually come with the product or from their website. Technology keeps advancing.
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