opinion on IFS

I have a 52 willys station wagon I am building for my wife. It is a 4wd now. She would like me to make it a 2wd and sit about 3" lower than stock 4wd. I know her well enough to know it needs to be as close to a more modern car in the way of handling and stopping to keep her happy. The 4wd axle is 55" wide and that is limiting me on my choices.
So far from my research the 2 best options seem to be the MII or a s10 sub frame. There are no MII kits made for the 4WD frame and I am unsure as to why unless there is not enough demand (which I am having a hard time believing after seeing the amount differnt kits out there for orphans). 2WD kits are available but they had a different frame constriction. I have installed 2 MII kits before but never a universal xmember.
I made a lot of measurements and feel that a full frame swap from an s10 is not feasable for what I want. The front sub looks like a good choice but I'm a little nervouse as I never did a sub swap and some of the ones I've seen on line look a little hokie. If anyone can refer me to a good build thread on one I would like to see it
I also looked at the C4 Jag and Crown Vic, but the only way they would fit width wise is with negative offset wheels. YUCK!
I was hoping to see some ideas/ opinions on these or other choices I've missed before I start cutting/ buying. Thanks for your opions/experience.

 

Fatman will make an MII kit for you. This is much better than cutting the frame for a clip in every way.

 

Is it going to be just a nice driver,or more show?

I've had 2 rods with original M-II or Pinto crossmemebers.....might be easier to install one of these if the track is right and no mis-matches with the rack that I've heard some custom M-II's have

I'm just not a fan of sub-frame swaps....alignment problems with sheet metal.I've had one of these that drove great, but sheet metal was never right (I bought that car with it,was going to replace frame with a crossmember conversion frame,but it got totaled before I could re-do the car)

 

I think, much as they're scorned around these parts, this is exactly the kind of situation where the MII stuff is needed.

Generally one has the option of either (a) doing what the customer wants or (b) turning down the job, and in this case (b) isn't practical, so you need the lowest-pain-and-least-potential-for-fuckup means of accommodating (a).

 

I had one of those years ago, with an Olds 371 in it. The 2 wheel drive version with the cool leaf spring IFS.

They are quite a small vehicle, and narrow. I don't think you will find any S10, Crown Vic or any stock suspension that will come near fitting. The only thing I can think of off hand, might be some Japanese SUV like a Tracker.

This would be a good place for a Mustang II type aftermarket installation if you can afford it.

The way the front sheet metal is made, will make it almost impossible to use anything but the stock frame and have it look half way sensible.

The more I think about it the more the MII is the way to go. If that is not practical measure the width of the wheels or from brake drum to brake drum and start junk yard shopping. Unfortunately almost all small vehicles these days are front wheel drive.

One thing just occurred to me. 2 wheel drive Jeeps used a solid front axle on leaf springs up to 2001. If you could find one of them it might fill the bill. It won't allow much lowering though.

 

I was just going to post this about using one of the Postal Jeep 2WD front ends

 

It will only be a driver. GOOGLE is making it look as though nobody does this anymore giving me the impression that me thinking about using a stock crossmember was just being cheap. I will gladly kick someone in the ass when they want to look underneath. I did consider using a stock crossmember as there are several in my local pick apart. Also it would make it easier to figure the ride height as it would be in one piece and easier to mock up. the one thing that did concern me is I live in the NE and was not sure how bad if at all these things rust. Since the Willys wont be that low the strut rods are not a consideration and could be reversed anyway.

 

You'd have to check the condition.....mine were Fla cars/crossmembers

I had the struts in the stock positions

 

What motor and wheels you thinking?

Depending on what Pinto or M-II you get, some had 8" rears, and if you got a donor car, the 4 bolt hubs will match depending on what wheels you want

Not sure what the rear width was on those, but I used one on my '29 Model A

 

4.3 Chevy and 700r4

 

Google Mustang II suspension failure and you'll find out why you might not want to use a Fatman kit. I am not a fan of their stuff. So I decided to go Jag IFS for a fraction of the cost of an aftermarket M II, which for $300 gives me the whole shooting match - subframe hub to hub suspension with vented 4 pot calipers, sway bar and power steering - but you do not have the width to fit the Jag as you mention.

There are a couple of 'name' suppliers whose products are less than stellar. The two that I recommend as being industrial strength are Spartan Rodworks and Howard Kaye of Chubby Chassis. Both of these will make you a narrow enough setup for your Willys - I have a couple from Spartan for 1933 Willys which are really narrow.

www.spartanrodworks.com
www.chubbychassis.com

Here are some of the horror stories:

www.hotrodders.com/forum/mustang-ii-kit-failure-18601.html

www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/the-mustang-ii-ifs-real-info-debate-thread.720194/

www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=257826

El Polacko here on the HAMB is the guru when it comes to this stuff....

 

There are a couple running around north TX Both with complete S-10 chassis swaps that I am told were almost no work at all. Much easier than a clip or mustang II. There is a thread here on the Hamb that discusses all the S10 swap info, giving dimensions and soforth. Check it out. BUCKD

 

I was one of the first (2001) to have a Heidt's break. Gary, himself, inspected the car and authorised the repair AFTER the HAMB took control.

Now, I see he has changed the design of his crossmember, which says something to me.

I like subframe clips, but I wrap the frames (OEM and sub) together, giving me yards of weldment for strength.

Cosmo

 

I'm not sure what this one has under it for suspension but it shows up around the PNW all the time and looks cooler than all hell even if it is a bit ot.