any advice on a door that is stuck closed? i removed the panel and can access the latch asemble mostly but not the wheel and jam because the window track goes right in front. i beleive the jam is rusted into the wheel that grabs inside the door because i can get the realease button half to pivot as well as the locking plate to slide back... but it still wont release te door??
If you haven't decided on brake pedal setup, checkout my 55 olds build thread. I used a manual transmission vega pedal setup, removed the clutch pedal and used a booster from an 85 chevy pickup. It was relatively simple. As for the stuck door, patience. Use a little force and pb blaster works wonders. Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
i will deffinantly check out your build, as for the door iv tried but i feel like i cant apply force to the proper spot. i ned to access the wheel because i think he jam is rusted into the wheel. i see all other components and they are moving i cant see the wheel but i cant feel it and its solid in place.
I also had a sticky/frozen door. Turns out it was my door linkage was not popping the mechanism. Make sure that is working first.
Get in touch with Kanter auto parts. Got a new manual master cylinder from them. Not sure what you have, but they are a good place to start. Kanter guy seems a bit douchy with an attitude, but they have a bunch of parts.
i removed the door panel and can get to most of the latch assemblt but not the wheel and jam. the lock, button release and remote realease seem to move... come to think about it i have to check the remote release wich would be the release for the inside handle.... but the jam is not releasing the latch wheel that grabs inside the door jam.. its tight space to work and i cant open the door so i cant remove the latch like i did with the drivers side wich had been seized in the release position so that door would not shut. i soaked and wire wheeled it for day to free up. any way to remove the door without oppening them.
Thank you, got my plugs out and ordered new ones. Didn't really take pictures, more brute forces and little caution not to scratch the bore hole. Order new ones. Another question is if I want to paint the engine how can I remove all the rust for paint without really breaking down the engine. I know the intake and exhaust manifolds have to be removed but I want to just cover the distributor... Anything else to look out for or will get in the way? I'd like to remove all the surface rust if possible but again is this possible without going crazy breaking it down? Any product to use, I use phosphoric acid to treat rust on the body and floors?
Not much to update i removed the front bumper and started removing all the trim pieces so I can sand the body down. started disassembling the wheels because all brake parts are on order. Freeze out plugs came in but are a hair to big so I ordered a size down. ordered sheet metal to make my floors, I've decided instead of trying to do small patches through out the floor im going to do 3 or 4 large sections of the floor at once. this way its easier to make and shape the panels and there will be no hidden rust to contaminate the new metal. Any recommendations for the driveline hump, its surface rusted not rotted at all but if i treat it with phosphoric acid it doesn't seem to wire brush away, most turn black from the chemical reaction but when i used this on my truck was able to then sand everything down to clean fresh metal. this seems to stay coated with the iron deposit and or flash rusts by the next day...? cut it out or keep it? It is structuraly solid but cosmeticly ugly plus again not sure if the rust is being nuetralized well enough.+++ last thing is anyone know a reference number to cross for my master cylinder, since this car came with the trouble-vac i have to now find a master cylinder and rather it already be in working condition than buying the part and having to buy a kit and rebuild it... in that case id go to the yards first but so much other parts that need rebuilding itd be nice to bolt one in and be done. photos are on the wayyyyyy
got all my brake parts in, waiting on one mre freeze out plug to come in.... first one i destroyed learning how to tap em in just right. brakes will go in then the engine back together. thinking about driving it unfinished to see how the engine is, i hear its a dog.... maybe go with a sbc just for a little more power and convience. i am thinking for the summer drive it while i strip and prime pannel by pannel then this winter take it all apart for acid treatment and paint. anybody think this is a bad idea? if so why?
There was a thread a few days back on oven cleaner to remove grease from engines. The guys involved said to avoid aluminum as it will get damaged. Ever consider powder blasting as opposed to acid? Powder will clean it up without removing metal if done properly. I use a powder blaster a lot on aluminum and it works great. You don't have to worry about flash rust. Might be worth it to build a cabinet to blast parts because it is very messy. Just watch your stroke and you won't make holes.
Id like to sand blast the whole body, Ive soda blasted a few parts but it destroys the grass i figure sand will wash away eventually and I could reuse it easier. Whats your oppinion on the pros and cons of the two? anyone else care to chime in?
I ran my master cylinder through a parts cleaner, do i have to hone out the plunger chamber? Its not exactly "smooth", not deep but I think its pitted a little.
Have an experienced blaster do the body, it may not be cheap, but its worth it. Blasting builds a lot of heat and can warp panels quickly. Master cylinder bore needs to be smooth, thats what the pistons seal against. I think you can have them sleeved???
does the sleeve get pressed in? Is it more in my interest to replace the master cylinder with a reman or nos? i have a rebuild kit but whats the point if it needs to be sleeved and is going to leak regaurdless. Anyone know of a blaster in NY?
thanks HotRod, i was really lucky with my rot all over the car... the floors are really the worst you see. drivers side rockers are showing some rot so il replace those but seems like water was only getting to that side. passenger side is barely has surface rust underneath, most of the car still has te factory undercoating.
Anyone run into trouble with their lugs??? mine seem fine with just a little surface rust but i cant thread my lug nut back on for the life of me.... bang em out and pull in new ones or should i try running a threader over them? they are left hand thread, would i need a diffrent threading tool?
Pontiac one side is LH and one side is RH. Maybe you mixed up a lug. I had a problem like that on my '57 when I brought it back - it came home on the trailer with a whopping single nut on the left rear wheel. 3 busted studs and the last one stripped out.
Buddy just got a master from California Pontiac Restoration because his failed, the one on the car has been rebuilt before so if it's pitted I would replace it. Driver side is the lh threaded side .
Cheiftain, nuff said ordered a new master cylinder 5 minutes ago. thanks for the heads up. rusty, mine had at most 3 on one wheel as well but all the lugs look to be ok with just surface rust on them. thats weird they have different threads from one side to another now i gotta go check this out and its gunna bug me all day that im at work!
thanks got new RIGHT hand thread turned right on. while i was there grabbed new lht for the drivers side... anyone know why they did this??
Update: Brakes are rebuilt, brake lines are run, engine and tranny are married and back in, new hoses fuel pump and fuel line to carb, radiator and front support back in, then rain.... Hopefully tomorrow I get to hear it run and soon after take it for its first drive. Just waiting on my master cylinder.
Anyone that can tell me a oil filter and gasket part number for my car? I got a Fram filter but its gasket is to big and leaking like crazy.
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