Hi all Glad to see the enthusiasm and the knowledge here. Yes, feed stock places and prices vary, but cheap as PLUS no harmful fumes, and you can handle without protection. Thanks for bringing up this worthwhile topic again. I have been using mol***es and water in roughly a one to ten mixture for over ten years now, and have used it to get the rust off hundreds of parts. It is a bit of labor, but is very cheap and not harmful to the environment, so all around a win on every point. Well said ss34Coupe.
Any idea what the lifespan of the mixture is or is there a certain point where the concoction goes rotten? ..I'd like to put my whole car into a barrel
I set up a 5gal bucket for small stuff. I also went 4:1 with a gallon of feed grade stuff. All in about $4.00. I mixed it 1st with hot water and wire whip on a drill motor. Had a nasty surface rusted pair of Lincoln spindles with the kingpins stuck in em. I dropped one in the bucket and forgot about it for 2 weeks. Not only did it come out beautiful clean, the kingpin slid right out as well to reveal perfect bushings and pin surfaces. Did an old Model A Zenith too.
Hum...going to try it on my rusty metal hooped wooden pail. Least it won't kill me or damage the wood. Thanks for the tip guys.
I've been using the same mixture for over two years now. I plan on pouring it out this spring (on an area of gr*** that got torn up over the winter...plants grow strong after a mol***es drink) and remaking some more. It isn't that the mix has stopped working, so much as there's a bunch of crud in the bottom of the barrel.
How does it smell if you set up a tank with a lid, like suggested above using an old chest freezer? And do the vapors make anything else in the area rust, as happens if you are using an acid (hydrochloric) to remove rust? I guess what I'm getting at is, could you set up something inside the garage to work year-round in a locale that freezes in winter?
I've had my tank sitting in my garage for the past two years, winter and summer. It has a lid, and I've never really noticed a smell. What smell there is, smells sweet...like mol***es. haha But it's nothing that has ever bothered me. I haven't noticed anything in the area rusting out or having problems.
I went to the local feed store today and asked. They came out with a 20Kg bag of powdered mol***es. Here I was thinking black sticky syrup all of this time. Did I buy the right stuff? and are we talking 1:10 ratio by weight or volume? OR - Am I taking this too seriously and should I just mix a bunch and get on with it? Thanks for a great thread and pics, Can't wait to see the results as there's no shortage of rust on the east coast of Canada.
I read somewhere that 20-25% was the best mix which is why I did it the way I said. 2 weeks later it even got to the rust in the kingpins as they slid right out. Also, mine came in a gallon jug, and yes, dark sticky liquid. The smell of the fermentation process is what stinks. Hard to describe the smell, it's not hateful at 1st but eewwiee does it get stronger when you mix it up!!
I'm pretty sure you want the liquid form, but I have never used it. I'm on the other side where I was the one making the feed for horses and such back in High School. Its pretty cheap stuff in the scheme of things. The liquid stuff will barely flow at all when it's really cold. I could be wrong the powder maybe used, it's just the dehydrated form. Powdered type looks like black sand and doesn't smell as good as the liquid stuff. BTW it tastes really bad ask me how I know.
OK, OK, I've waited a while to get into this. I first learned this from my Hudson Buddies on the Hudson forum. Here goes. All I could find was this granulated mol***es to work with. I went to my friendly Wal-Mart and purchased the cheapest ice chest they had. I placed water, my mol***es and the rested part into the chest, covered it up and waited. Here are the great results. Peace, Chaz
I've been using mol***es for a few years now, as has another hot rodder mate who got me onto the idea.. Both of us get a standard 44 gallon drum, and fill it with 15 - 20l of mol***es. Thats what we get them in at our local store. All you have to do is fill the drum about 5 - 10 inches of water, then pour the mol***es in.. stir it like crazy until its all mixed! Then fill it another foot or so.. give it a good stir.. and s****e the bottom with whatever you are stiring with, make sure it does sit at the bottom.. and then just fill it up till its a few inches from the top. One thing i've noticed is get a lid for whatever you are using.. i keep getting flys / mossies / maggots in mine that i have to fish out of it. So ****** disgusting, but **** it, would rather scoop maggots and whatever the slime coat is it gets out than pay for sand blasting.
I keep mine covered too- it keeps the varmints and critters out. The smell is a fermenting odour....not too bad but my wife says it stinks. Ah well. I cannot recommend this process highly enough. Look at that picture from themodernartist, along with my photos at the start of this thread. There is no trickery here!! BTW, I've heard the stuff lasts easily 6 months. That's a lot of parts cleaned at 2 weeks a go.
Did I miss anything about neutralizing the cleaned up parts after they come out? Or, are you just giving the parts a good scrubbing with some self etching primer afterwards?
rinse the parts off with water when they come out.Some use Baking powder or Vinegar or you can use POR15's Metal Ready to keep from flash rusting.Let the parts fully dry before you prime.....
It also works great for ridding your lawn of any of that pesky tall fescue. I have a nice "bald spot" in my backyard where I dumped it out.
The bucket is mixed and full of a number of rusty items. The stuff I bought had a percentage of shredded corn husk and other **** in it so there was about 2" of mulch to strain off of the top. Still not sure if I've got the right stuff or not. We'll find out in a couple of weeks. Maybe I can at least shear it all and make a sweater...
Interesting thread. OK. I see you cannot do this with alum. What about rusted chrome steel wheels? I also have some old Rader wheels they are built like Cragars- alum center with a steel rim. In this case, could a wheel be set up hung on something to where you are only submerging the steel parts ( a little at a time ).