Electronic issue with the Dodge. Ignition to be exact. With the key on, I have power to the coil. The coil is new and working. Distributor just got a new condensor, points, and rewired. The key won't start the engine, but with a remote switch hooked to the starter solenoid, it will turn over. While cranking it with the trigger, I lose power to my coil. 1954 Dodge Royal. Positive ground 6 volt system. Is it my ignition switch needing to be replaced?
Also...still not sure why the solenoid trigger wire goes to the transmission and then to the brake pressure switch.
The HAMB is a wonderful place for help.but not too many mind readers here..Why didnt you state the year and engine in your Dodge???
Check your ignition switch! Had similar issues and replaced the coil + resister, fuel pump, filter - all chasing a similar demons. The ignition switch was intermittantly failing the entire time leading me down other paths. Mine is a Dodge HEMI 325
What is the "trigger"? There is no trigger on a 54 Dodge. Do you mean the stock switch ? or the remote switch? I don't have a wiring diagram handy for a 54 Dodge, the closest I have is for a 52 which should be the same. It shows one wire from the key switch to the coil. When the key is on, do you have power to the coil? When you turn it to the start position do you have power to the coil and to the starter? Does the engine turn over? If no, the fault is in the wire or in the switch. If yes to above questions, connect a spare plug to any plug wire and see if it fires. If yes the ignition is working. If no, connect the plug to the coil wire. If it fires the problem is in the rotor, cap or plug wires. If not, the problem is in the points or wiring Do you have power to the point? Do the points switch the power on and off? If yes, suspect the condenser or coil. If no, find out what is the matter with the points or the wiring. I could go on like this all night. Try a few of these tests and get back to me with more information, we will narrow it down and fix it.
Probably someone's attempt to include a safety interlock in the starter circuit -- foot on brake and car in neutral. I can't believe that was in the original design. I think that kind of enforced safety came along much later.
Our car did the same, the switch is either worn out, or for a different car, which is what we think the problem was with ours. We put a diode on it, but I cant remember the size, and what terminals I connected it to, my dads the electrican. I will ask him after work.
Many electrical systems "block" circuits while cranking. Check for a circuit which is hot while cranking. nec spe nec metu
I'll try the ignition switch next. I'll probably just grab a generic one from work for test purposes. Thanks!
Not all ignition switches are created equal. Be aware of that. I really have no idea how a 54 royal is wired off the top of my head. I'd need a diagram to see and could easily figure it out from there. However I do find this interesting ... Key on and power to coil Jumped remote start button and you loose power to coil. There must be something that cuts the flow of power into the ignition switch associated with the starter. Could also be a bad connection, re engineered wiring. You could try an old fashioned Hotwire to the coil and then bump your starter over with the remote button
Just run a straight hot wire from the battery to the power side of the coil? Once it started, the only way to kill it would be the battery terminal, huh?
That is one way that might work . Just turn the key off . This'd get it started which seems like you want to do is just get it started . Or has this been on the road and just screwed up recently ?
Pulled the switch out. One post is labeled AM. Ammeter I'm guessing. One is labeled ST and had only 1 wire. Starter? One is labeled ACC. 3 wires. Accessory I'm guessing. The last is IG and had 2 red wires. Power? Can I bench test this thing?
Yea you can bench test it why not? You can use a continuity tester or a lantern battery and a test light They said this was for a "54 dodge " crusader http://www.classiccar.com/forum/discussion/29242/need-wiring-diagram-54-dodge/p1 But I don't know if its correct for you.
Okay. Bench tested the switch. Key to the left...nothing. Key to the right...ACC power, and AM power. All the way to the right, Power to ST. So I assume my switch is good.
Electrical demons live only because of assumptions . Granted, your switch may no longer be #1 suspect but it should pass current and it may or may not be doing that. It was mentioned before that the starter wire is looped to the transmission and brake switch. This is apparently some attempt at a NSS . You have 2 problems. 1 You need to verify that in start position current comes from switch to all points headed to starter. Switch terminal, into trans deally , out if trans deally , into brake switch, out of brake switch , to starter and all points in between. If it were your starter would be cranking the same as your remote makes it crank- but it's not. 2 verify the switch is passing current to coil in start and or find out what is interrupting the coil when you remotely bump starter. Could be a number of things but it seems the ignition switch is loosing its power in and of course out because of the starter and its load itself independent of switch action because you are remotely bumping it. If I'm understanding what you've posted ? ?
Bench test connections It doesn't matter just to test a switch that is out, BUT if wires are still hooked up, and since it is positive ground, ground test light or probe to battery positive or good ground. Looks like switch power may come in from AMmeter, so connect power to this pole. In your case (positive ground) power comes from negative side of battery. Does not matter, IF switch is not connected to any wires. Test light on ST should light ONLY when switched to Start position I'm guessing IG = ignition to coil. Test light should light in On position, AND NOT go off when switch is turned to Start position. Light should be off in Accessory (left) position. Test light on ACC should light in Accessory and On position AND go off in Start position.
Continuity testing. The IG wire goes from the ignition switch, to the transmission, and then back to the "trigger" side of the solenoid
You really can't follow current flow with a continuity test. It's kind of like looking for a leak in a water pipe or a blockage in the pipe when there's no water in it.
(On a positive ground car ONLY!) IG wire should go to coil negative. ST (start or solenoid trigger wire) CAN go through the neutral safety maze, but probably only needs to go thru trans switch. You can simplify for testing, by running a wire from ST to starter solenoid. Did you do a complete switch bench test? Your post made it seem that you did not. Switch should show power to ACC pole when in Accessory position and On positions. Light should go out on ACC pole and stay on at IG pole when switch is in Start position.
I have a 1951 Hudson positive ground 6 volt. What I did to eliminate this problem was to run my own wiring harness. I ran a a wire off of my negative to an inline fuse to a simple toggle switch with 2 prongs, then ran another line out to the coil. This will give it power all the time so only flip it when you are starting the car and when its running, or you'll burn your points out. My car has this setup and it runs fine. Another wise investment would be a circuit test from Harbor freight its cheap and works for 6 volt system.
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