Bleeding brakes. Disc/ Drum with prop valve

1949 Chevy 3600

Speedway front disc kit

Blazer rear end

Performance online dual master cylinder with Prop Valve.

http://www.performanceonline.com/194...t-Disc-Brakes/

Is there a procedure to bleed these? Came with nothing for instructions.

 

OK I see this is a below the floor model, did you get and install residual valves in the front & rear lines, If not you need them. I have bled them in the normal manner, furtherest away to closest to the MC and done OK

 

Yes residual valves in place.

 

start with RR then LR the RF the LF. you need a friend to help. It will make things much easier. Have your friend work the pedal. Open the RR bleeder then have him push the pedal to the floor SLOW and hold it down. Then close the bleeder. Continue to do this until you get good solid flow a couple times in a row. Now to the next 3 wheels. Once you get an initial p*** around the car your pedal should start to feel half way good. Go back to the RR and have your friend pump the pedal till it feels firm and hold it on. You now open the bleeder and the pedal will drop. Make sure he lets the pedal go down and does not let up until you tell him your closed. Then repeat.... Pump till firm...Hold...you open...pedal drops...you close...repeat until you have a good stream with no "spitting air" pockets coming out. Then continue with the last 3 wheels. RR, LR, RF, LF. Make sure you keep an eye on the master cyl fluid level.
P.S. I hope you bench bleed the master cyl before you mounted it?

 

bENCH BLEED THE MC first.

You can bleed the Furthest first to fill the system. Then bleed closest to furtherest from the MC, this way you push all the air bubbles to the end.

 

Or go buy a vacuum bleeder. Harbor Freight sells a good one. I did my '61 with it. Makes it easy!

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

 

Yes MC was bench bled.

Here is what we experienced tonight.

Pulled fluid to the RR with a mity vac, then the LR.

Then the RF and LF.

Then went back to the RR and pumped, held and released air until we got good fluid flow. Did the same on LR.

The went to RF and could not get any fluid flow. Check continuity to ground on the Prop valve. Got path to ground.....meaning it is tripped.

How do I reset it?

 

Anybody??

 

That prop valve looks to be late 60's early 70's GM . I just did a google search for " 1969 camaro proportioning valve reset" and came up with some procedures to center the valve.
Try that and see if it gives you some recourse.
Your problem is the reason why I always put manual adjustable prop valves in my cars.

 

You have to balance it by opening the system to equalize the pressure. That's right out of a GM shop manual.

Those things are great when you bust a leak but a pain in the *** to bleed, I always had them pressure bled until I got a van - a van the master is that much higher which lets me gravity bleed them pretty easily.

 

Go around and bleed the rear again then the front. It should center itself. Don't let the pedal drop too fast. the sudden pressure difference will trip the valve again. once the pressure is close to equal front to rear it will stay centered.