I want to get my new tires mounted on some steel wheels for my T project and I started to wonder what are the advantages and disadvantages of either process. All I want is for the wheels to be black. If I coat them will it be hard to color match them to paint? What's the quality like? Will paint be fine? I know powder coating is pretty strong but is paint adequate? I'm not sure how often they will be mounted on and off so I don't want to ruin paint, but it doesn't make sense to me either to mount tires and then take them off again to paint/ coat. Am I splitting hairs here? I don't know what do you you guys know about this stuff? What are your opinions?
Powder Coating is a very durable industrial finish, that IMHO will last longer than a sprayed automotive finish on a wheel. Depending on the guy doing the work, the pricing is very compe***ive. I had the wheels Powder Coated on the Studebaker (red) and it was about $25.00 per wheel. They came out very nice, smooth and the shine is good. Stu
Lets not forget that there is also a quality range in the powder chosen to powdercoat the wheels. There are cheap powders and there are good powders just like in paint. And just like in paint, prep is critical. My supplier strips for 24 hours in a tank before applying the finish. It is durable yes, covers better and is more uniform, but will NOT fill imperfections in the substrate either as some may think. Paint isn't cheap, paint labor isn't cheap, you may just find that powdercoating is comparable in price if not cheaper that painting em.
On my T, the back wheels are power coated and the front are painted. I painted the front ones with black Krylon. Full prep. Then paint. It's lasted very well, but after 4 years, they are beginning to fade slightly. But it's only apparent to me. They scratched where the trim ring attaches, but that's expected and can't be seen when the ring is on. I used about 2 rattle cans of primer and 2 of color. I wanted multiple coats. Price the paint for cost. The powder coated rear wheels are going on 5 years. Done in black and still shiney black. No chips at all. They also scratched where the trim ring attaches, but again, it can't be seen. So, if I had it to do over again on the same budget, I'd go with paint all around. But keep in mind, powder coat is definitely lasting longer. So in the long run, powder coat may be worth the investment. Repainting a couple wheels is a nice, lazy day chore that won't bother me. You don't have to remove the tires to paint. Tape off the rubber and go to it.
Was color match ever an issue with you? The color this guy I know was gonna use on my wheels was called "biker black" I was only planning on running a single stage black for the body, but you know how each manufacturer has there own black, or white, ect, ect.
"Biker Black"? Dude, just get Krylon black. It's REALLL black. Could your friend tell "Biker Black" from "Black"? Doubtful. Oh........ I didn't even clear mine and they lasted 4 years.
That's just the name they give it on the label. I ***ume. I don't see how that color black will make people think I like smoking lightening and heavy metal thunder. (Steppenwolf joke)
I'm 54 yrs. old. Loving the Steppenwolf joke. Of course, if it's ethnic black, it would actually be more of a dark brown shade. Wouldn't it?
Where in Minnesota are you ? I powdercoat lots of wheels (a**** other things) out of my shop in the west part of the Twin Cities. $60 per wheel with sandblast and the color of your choice. Powdercoat is the only way to go.
I prefer paint as it can be touched in easier than powder coat. London taxi cab black is the blackest black...
I'm up in Anoka. This friend of mine is gonna powder coat my wheels, but then I got to thinkin'. Would paint be better. I'm sure I'll have to fill in some of the pits in the metal. That's the only plus I can think of for paint. No welding and sanding down. Just some high build primer and paint.
1. Low budget - Krylon ratter can will last two to three years. 2. Mid range - A good auto paint with a catalyst 5 or more years. 3, Powder coated - The best it'll out last the car. Watch your tire place mount your wheels, tell them not to drop them on the floor and wear clean gloves if you have WWW tires. I paid $40. each for four wheels. CRUISER
Paint is NOT better than powder for durability and high gloss. I fill pits with JB weld and powdercoat over it. Turns out nice.
Oh ok, powdercoat them. Here in SoCal we can get away with paint. I bet you all back east laugh at our version of "rain" haha
Good paint is better than cheap powder coat. It's also easier to change colors if you change your mind.
Funny story: When I was 19 I moved out to LA for a while and it rained within the first two weeks. I was wondering why people where going crazy. People where totally freaking out, then it dawned on me. The weather has been the same every day since I got there then it just rained all the sudden. "They must not get a lot of rain, because it's been pretty dry".
Powder comes in different types (urethane, epoxy, polyester, etc) If you have problems with your powder your coater probably used the wrong powder or did not cure or prep correctly. A nice paint on rims is more expensive than powder any day. I blast and powder rims starting at 50 pr rim. I have paint shops bring me rims so they don't have to paint them. If you have a friend that will powder them you wont regret a little extra work dismounting and remounting to get a far better job than paint. especialy rattle can.
****ing craziest thing I have ever heard. You can scuff and paint over powder, you can scuff and powder over powder....
Powder coating looks and holds up great! I paid $25/wheel. I understand that's less than half California way...
What about 2 piece wheels? I have a pair of old Raders (steel rim/aluminum center) that I want done in "Rally Wheel Silver". Will they bake right with the 2 different metals? Blue
Different metal no problem. Pitted flaking chrome is the problem. But can be done with extra work and experience.
I rustoleum painted the steel rims on my 57 gloss black. I like it. Failure: I powdercoated the GT rims on a old ford I built, THE powder did not flow down in the rim where it is riveted together, over a year or two, rust from the rivets came out of the seam and stained the silver pc. I've powdercoated valve covers, alternators, intakes, fan parts here in a modified kitchen oven, spent over two hours doing a set of valve covers for a buddy, he was laughing, carb cleaner had taken off the pc down to shiny bare metal. I didn't see the humor in losing two hours of my life doing him a favor. Be a cold day before I spend a day on his next project for free. Powdercoat makes a excellent primer. I've painted over bike parts once the sun fades the shiny color. (clear coat paint has UV inhibitors in it) So, your mileage may differ.
Thanks for all the info guys. Hey kipper, what type of powder is the best quality and yields the best results? I originally was planning on coating my wheels, but now that I read your input I for sure am. That's cool that you can scuff and go over powder also. If I choose to later on down the road.
Just picked up my Wheel Vintique rims today from Orange County Ny powder coaters...splendid match can't wait until the tires get here.
That can be an issue. Powder electrostaticly does not like to stick to sharp inside corners. It makes a big difference on the nozzle you are using as well as the voltage. What I like to do is preheat the part and spray it. The powder then will 'stick' in the hard to reach places. Most often I do the first coat cold and the second coat hot when the steel wheels have pitting to attempt to fill them a bit. You really can't do it well with a $100 Eastwood gun ......which most guys attempt to powdercoat with.... PowdercoatMan, LLC
No we don't. Ever see us so cal folks drive in the rain? Personally I would prefer paint over powdercoat just because it's easier to get in corners and easier to touch up if you get dings in them.
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