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Sandblast then Primer?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jaw22w, May 12, 2013.

  1. jaw22w
    Joined: Mar 2, 2013
    Posts: 1,720

    jaw22w
    Member
    from Indiana

    I should be getting my 26 T coupe back from the sandblaster this week. I have a few patch panels to install. I want to keep new surface rust at bay while I do the patch panels. I have heard about a weld through primer. Is this a good way to go? Can someone give me a brand name? Will this have to be removed for final painting? Do I need an etching primer first? I can fabricate and turn wrenches, but I don't know anything about painting. What is the correct procedure when starting with freshly sandblasted metal? I would appreciate any expertice you guys could give.
     
  2. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,152

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER


    I've used Oxysolve in the past when I wanted the bare blasted steel to stay rust free while being repaired. A simple water wash and it's ready for primer. I think Eastwood still sells the product. :)
     
  3. 296 V8
    Joined: Sep 17, 2003
    Posts: 4,666

    296 V8
    BANNED
    from Nor~Cal

    I like to do a mild blast mostly were ill be working … then do a final overall blast when done.
    But if that’s out id shoot it with epoxy and mask - avoid - or wire wheel it off the spots you need to work.
     
  4. tedley
    Joined: Nov 8, 2009
    Posts: 2,147

    tedley
    Member
    from canada

    Just use zinc chromate in a rattle can if you don't have spray equipment. It will go on almost transparent and thin like dye but that's all you need at this point. Weld thru primer is very very expensive. As high as 50 bucks for a rattle can.
    Just a coat of zinc is all i've ever used. Use a resporator.
     
  5. black 62
    Joined: Jul 12, 2012
    Posts: 1,895

    black 62
    Member
    from arkansas

    most primers don't prevent rust do they ?
     
  6. Weasel
    Joined: Dec 30, 2007
    Posts: 6,696

    Weasel
    Member

    Just wipe it all over with metal prep until you are ready to start prepping for primer and paint - and wear gloves. I have done several cars that way and left them for years with no adverse effects and I know of professional metal shapers who use it too. I use Blue Lightning. You might need to do it more often in Humidiana....

    www.blulightning.com/product/MPQT/METAL-PREP-RUST-INHIBITOR.html
     
  7. Okatoma cruiser
    Joined: Feb 9, 2013
    Posts: 179

    Okatoma cruiser
    Member
    from Ms

    I would tape off the spots I'm gonna weld on , prime everything else with epoxy primer, remove tape and use weld thru primer before welding on patches.but I just noticed that I'm a grenade inspector - I better get busy
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2013
  8. Weld thru primer is for BARE METAL OVERLAP AREAS ONLY!. Use a self etch. or epoxy. PPG 1791/1792 is what I use.
     
  9. rayhyar
    Joined: May 7, 2013
    Posts: 2

    rayhyar
    Member

    Use etch primer. The sooner the better. Moisture in the air will attack it.
     
  10. Rust needs bare metal, moisture and oxygen to form. Some types of primers
    are better than others. Were talking about shop coats. In a shop environment, most any primer will hold off rust for years. Even epoxy is NOT WATER PROOF, as stated so often on this board. It's a corrosion RESISTANT primer. That means if you get a scratch or chip to bare metal, it will RESIST corrosion creeping under the primer.

    BTW sand the surface after sand blasting, prior to primer. I use 120-150.
     
  11. redroaddog
    Joined: Apr 1, 2011
    Posts: 395

    redroaddog
    Member

    duponts second line Nason makes a etching primer thats works really great and doesn't break the bank looks like zinic chromate just don't breath it.....way strong:cool:
     
  12. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 32,492

    The37Kid
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    When you plan to weld any sandblasted areas hit the weld seam area with a grinder to remove and gl***/sand that will mess up a weld. Bob
     

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