Never used anything like it before and wanted to know if it really works, how it holds up, paint adhesion etc. thanks!
never had any problems with Hammerite brand, sticks good, hard as a rock when dry, hammer finish or smooth, way less money than POR. spray bomb or brush on.
por15 works great well worth the money did my frame in it the only thing if its going to be where a lot of sun light is going to be on it u should paint over it with reg paint or clear it
I used the motor paint. Fairly labor intensive, but the stuff wore like iron. I had a gas leak by the carb and only a little staining, it never lifted. I'd probably use it again.
I've used most all of the POR15 stuff, including the engine paint kit. Worth every penny to me. I will definitley continue to use their stuff.
Used POR 15 on the ch***is and the engine on my 54F100 sticks like glue. Going to do the floorboards with POR 15 both sides, then cover with Lizard skin insulation to keep the truck quiter and cooler inside. But first I am teching my self how to hammer weld and lead on the cab. Post pictures when I get the patches done.
Used POR on my trunk and floor pan. Stuff works great! You'll need a crowbar to remove the lid from the paint can if you don't watch what you're doin'.
used it on this rusty metal but make sure there is no oil por-15 dont like oil other wise works great
Make sure you clean the top of the can really good...and then put a piece of plastic wrap on the can before hammering the lid closed. This will help if you have to get back into the can. I've used it on a couple of things...my ch***is..but i didn't like the way it came out and might blast it off and try something different. I did use thier motor paint, but didn't "prep" it with all those ****py products/step that they want you to spend extra money on. We'll see how it holds up on the motor (it's been curing for a year now so hopefully that will help the cause) They tell you to use thier regular POR as a base under the motor paint..but the regular isn't a high heat..so i don't understand why they tell you to do that...wouldn't the regular POR peel under the heat and then ruin the regular motor paint. Ehhhh Like I said...we'll see how it holds up. besides how many of us ACTUALLY follow directions? POR has Iso's in it as well...so make sure you are well protected if spraying the stuff. I've heard "ZeroRust" and Eastwoods "Rust Encapsulator" are just as good and cheaper than POR
I did the sand, spray bomb primer, spray bomb color on my beater Suburban's huge rust spots last fall. By spring they were rusting through again (I layed on a bunch of extra coats to try to make up for how thin the paint is, too). So when I got a sample can of POR 15 to do the window channels on my Fleetline I took some of the extra I had poured out and painted various spots on the truck until I'd used it up. That truck only gets washed each time it rains, so I figure a salty New York winter aught to tell me how good the stuff is. Get back to me around April or so I have prepped and followed all their directions some spots and then put it on places like the inside of one of the doors on the Fleetline without any prep at all. It really takes to rough metal surfaces and seems to like it. I'm not too worried about it, but I would like to try some of the others and see how they hold up (again, using my truck as the scientific rot test vehicle). I like the idea of the Eastwood stuff that doesn't need nearly so much preparation and is supposed to stop rust creep. ------------ Somewhere way down the board is a thread I started asking folks which one they liked best. Everyone seems to have his own preference, although a lot of folks agree POR-15 was better when it first came out than the current formula. If you hit it right, you can scratch it off, which you aren't supposed to be able to do at least not easily.
heheh... not gonna use it on the sheetmetal. just on my frame clip. i don't feel like DAing the light surface rust off.
Would everyone eho has used POR15 hold up your black stained hands? I brushed the underside of a floor with small pinholes. It filled them and came out smooth. Highly recommended.
A friend of mine who restores muscle cars swears by it. I have used the Eastwood "Rust Encapsolator" and I can tell you that it does slow down rust BUT it scratches really easy and if you spill any chemical on it (gas, brake fluid, etc.) it practically jumps off the metal. I also tried that Rust Bullet stuff, and it seems to have worked fine but it didn't cover nearly as much as the company said it would. Next time, I will use the POR 15.
I used Por15 engine paint on the engine I rebuilt a few years ago and highly recommend it. VERY durable, lots of solids in it, stir it a lot and clean the metal real good before you use it. I used it with some of their primer and some Hardware store primer, both worked well. Also used some of their frame paint, it works well too, again, lots of solids in it so stir well. Oh, and clean your hands often or wear cotton gloves, it stains terrible and is hard to clean off if you don't get to it quickly.
I use it in floor boards after working them and on the underside of roof while on rotisserie as well as the ch***is before paint, just don't get it on your hands or you will wear it off it wont come off otherwise. but it last's like iron , worth the effort and bucks I think................
Just the info I was looking for. I'm getting ready to do the frame on this beast and was wondering about how good Por-15 really is. Thanks to everyone. pigpen
I agree with Tman. But then again I am a hack. I would never waste my money on it again. I have had both good and bad results with por-15 + por's ch***is coat black. Doesnt seem to stick to anything well but rust. So if your too lazy to remove all the rust it may work for you. There are some area where you cannot remove the rust, (inside doors etc) I would use zero rust or eastwood' rust encapsulator in those places instaed of por-15. You have to use there cleaner and etching solution to get it to stick, but sometimes it does not. I have followed the directions and por-15 is peeling off is some places. I took a wire brush to all the areas treated with por-15 to see if it would stick or come off. In many areas the por-15 peeled off. Pissed me off to do all the prep and work only to have the paint peel off!! Por degraser, por metal ready, then por-15 only to have it not stick.... BS!!! Not to mention por-15 has isocynates. Instead I would have used some dx300 for degreasing, some etching primer, then some trim black or one stage paint then done. If you do a search you will see I am not the only one who has had the same problems with por-15 adhesion. Some love it, some hate it.
I guess it is named P(aint) O(ver) R(ust) for a reason! I've used it for years and had results which match their instructions. It will stick to rust with a death grip. You cannot get paint to stick to it if you don't use their primer or spray a primer on while the POR is still wet. I have used lacquer thinner rather than their thinner for clean up. I've sprayed it with an airbrush but it is dangerous stuff to spray. If you breath it forget about using that part of your lungs again! I've only used the original gloss black. It will turn dull if exposed to the sun. I experimented by putting some on the rusty cowl vent of a "T" coupe that has been outside for more than ten years. It dulled but still held on tight. It will NOT stick to paint, oil or grease! You can use it to plug pin holes in floorboards by backing up the holes with masking tape. You can cover larger holes with fibergl*** cloth painted onto the floor with POR. It appears to be stronger than resin when used on a rusty floor. A friend has used the silver and it looked like **** because the silver pigment doesn't flow evenly. That may have something to do with the age of the POR. That reminds me of another caution: only buy fresh POR and only what you can use in six months or less. It ages after that. If you get it on your skin it takes two weeks for your skin to wear off. It will come off fairly well with lacquer thinner if it is still wet.
one direction you'll want to obey is wear gloves, it sticks to skin extremely well. won't wash off but will eventually wear off.
I painted my front frame rails and core support with it and it performs like a champ. I used all of their prep products and followed the directions to the letter. Wore dish gloves as well. I have about 1200 miles on it thsi year since I did it, and no peeling or chips. You MUST use the prep materials they suggest. One guy I know did the whole frame of his 56 caddy with it, but thought the metal prep they sell was just their way of getting all of his money. The joke was on him because it didn't stick and now he's peeling it off in strips. I have heard over and over that if you don't have rusty metal, then it doesn't work as well and you're better off priming and painting like you would with any new metal.
Okay? I tried once to sandblast POR-15 off w/ 120 psi and 20 grit silica sand. it took 15 min. to blast off 1 square inch of paint. Just from that test...I was sold. I use it on everything that could rust. I like to use on rusted panels that have alot of pitting...I spray the inside to creat a nice thick build to strengthen the metal and a light coat on the outside to fill/protect the metal from any other rust that may attack it. I swear by it...great stuff Maynard!
Used it on my frame after it was sandblasted and mended, then had it shot with ch***is black. I've driven it in some nasty weather, and it looks good after hosing it off. I agree that prep is the key, and brush it on a little heavy so it can seep into all the little crevices.
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