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Need help with $$ value of a 39 ford coupe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Motomike43, May 13, 2013.

  1. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,907

    40FordGuy
    Member

    Split the difference at $3,500 and take it home !!! I wouldn't let that one escape !!!!!!!

    4TTRUK
     
  2. Mooseandsqurl53
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 255

    Mooseandsqurl53
    Member
    from N.J.

    OK, not a Ford, but, my son in law just bought a 1938 Olds 2 dr., alot more rare than most Ford models and actually in better shape than some of the others and with a good ***le. Anyone want to guess at a price? Cheaper cars are out there, even Fords. It depends on how rational the seller is. Plus, the money isn't out there like it used to be and noooooobody seems to know where it all went, at least, that's what they're saying. In this economy, unless you get the right buyer who had bucks, you're going to be sitting on it and if it isn't properly stored, it's going to continue to deteriorate and that's supposed to make it worth more? A $15.00 car now worth 5K, and all they did was let it sit and rot. My advice to Bart remains the same, and, the seller is making a 10,000% profit for not lifting a finger. Motomike, yours looks a little better than Bart's. The tri-power manifold is worth something. I didn't see the wrench, though. Oh, wait, I found it!
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2013
  3. Fred A
    Joined: May 3, 2005
    Posts: 290

    Fred A
    Member
    from Encino, CA

     
  4. Motomike43
    Joined: Jan 13, 2013
    Posts: 156

    Motomike43
    Member

    Im going to try and pick it up for $3k. Im not looking to do a full flip on the car. Im thinking about buying the car and doing all the metal work and getting the car in Primer then selling it. I dont have the cash flow for a full build. I am a fabricator and a metal guy so thats what I will concentrate on. Get the frame cleaned up. Patch where needed. Chop the top. Section the body. any other custom metal work I can think of. Fix all the rust... basically make all new panels and then sell it as a ready to build body. The nice thing about metal work... I can build that whole body with about $2,500 in materials. Low over head is always good. Having hundreds of hours in labor dose not cost money when you only work on it when you have nothing else to do anyway.
     
  5. S_Mazza
    Joined: Apr 27, 2011
    Posts: 363

    S_Mazza
    Member

    Why would you customize the car halfway and then sell it? Customizations, by definition, are a matter of individual preference. Maybe half your potential buyers want a chop and half don't. And then maybe half of those people want a section and half don't. So you would do extra work and reduce your market by 75%. Seems like you would be much better off to fix all the rust and offer those custom services once you have someone interested. You could get more money, sooner.

    I must say, that car is pretty rough. I see what you mean about it functioning as a buck more than anything. As a means to hone your skills, it seems like a good project. I am not sure that paying $3,000 for it makes sense, but that's your decision.
     
  6. Bart78
    Joined: May 11, 2011
    Posts: 717

    Bart78
    Member

    I would not do any work to it. Unless I was going to do the whole thing. I don't think there would be much to make paying 3000 and then doing all that work. The best way to sell that is get it cheaper. An part it out. 38's are not pretty. But some like them. You hardly ever see 38 hoods. I have seen a few 38's with 37 hoods because they could not find a 38. I myself would sell the 38 front sheetmetal and replace it all with 37.
     
  7. Bart78
    Joined: May 11, 2011
    Posts: 717

    Bart78
    Member

    This will be getting the front end off this.[​IMG][​IMG]
     
  8. SuRfAcE_RuSt
    Joined: Sep 22, 2010
    Posts: 617

    SuRfAcE_RuSt
    Member

    The under dash gauges look like stewart warner blue lines... $500 right there
     
  9. How are the rain gutters? If they are ready to fall off, I'd p***. That's a hard fix to do it correctly. Incorrect way is a bunch easier.

    Everything I see on that car looks like it's rust ready to vaporize when you touch it.

    BUT, it is an excellent candidate for a vintage oval track race car. For that purpose ya' just make sheet metal repairs with sheet steel. Nothing has to be perfect. Trunk floor can be cut out, floor boards tinned in, don't need rubber parts, gl***, interior, wiring, etc.. Sell off the take off parts to recover some $$$$$$$$$$$.

    AND, after it's done, go have some fun.

    Ask this guy if he had this at the Daytona Turkey Run. If so, I've seen this car. ElRustoSupremeo is the only word I can use. And, I think I also saw the same car at the Charlotte Auto Fair. If it's the same one, he's been shopping it around for a long time. Every time I saw it, it was on a decked trailer like this one. At Daytona I think he was asking $7-8k. A dream.


    About $2,500 is the max I'd go on this turd.

    Those $500 gauges!!!!! Don't hold your breath that they're any good.
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2013
  10. From your posted (know it all ) description i am an idiot ... Even if i did stay at a holidayinn last night...

    $1500... Tops with ***le ... Way past anything but a parts car even cleaned up with
    red wheels it would be a hard sell for any more......


    WHAT FRONT END IS ON IT THE BOLT PATTERN IS SMALL ON THOSE WHEELS ?
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2013
  11. 40fordtudor
    Joined: Jan 3, 2010
    Posts: 2,503

    40fordtudor
    Member

    It would be a good start----I'm thinking $2000.00 tops. Needs quite a bit of replacement metal.
     

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