Truck won't start when it warms up...Help!

Well if I ever have this problem, at least now I know what to check... That's why if I'm reading anything on here I'm learning.

 

A bad solenoid can freeze up tight when hot. Warm? Maybe.

 

Glad your issue is resolved.

 

glad the problem is fixed.

and thank you for reporting back.

I bought a 409 powered car from a HAMBer. He was frustrated because it wouldn't start when COLD. It would start when warm. He had to keep his garage warm just to get the car to start. Imagine how I felt when it showed up in winter and no start!

Just like this case, the wire to the coil was missing. We found it quickly and the fix was cheap.

but the symtoms were opposite.

interesting.

 

Ahh, you must still be running the stomp starter, the 12 volt units on top had a machine screw stud sticking out to attach the coil wire to when running a ballest resistor.

 

If you are running a point iginition. you need a resistor wire or ballast resistor. then from the terminal on the starter seleonid you need a boost wire going directly to the coil that byp***es the resistor giving the coil a full 12 volts buring cranking.

 

Your flooding it. They flood easy. Walk away & go start it later & DONT STEP ON THE GAS

 

**** yeah! Thanks for the lesson y'all. I'm so use to putting HEI's on anything GM

 

Had the same problem.
It was the needle and seat.
Would start just fine, when cold. After getting up to temp, it had a hard start.

The seat leaked just enough, it would drain the fuel bowl, flooding the intake. Leaked not enough to effect the idle.
Cold start it was perfect.
I replaced the needle and seat.
Pumping the carb, would flood it even more !
.

 

Good job on the update and feedback! Best possible way to thank everyone who tried to help and educate each of us.

 

I'm with the coil guys..... I fought that same issue all summer, Turned out, some of the windings went "open" when it became "heat soaked".

4TTRUK

 

you can eliminate the coil with a homemade spark tester.

Put 2 small nails thru a piece of Styrofoam at 45 angles in a spread V.

Place the points exactly 7/16 of an inch apart.

The purpose of the V is to allow you to adjust the sharp ends close together and keep the other ends far apart.

Using a jumper wires ground one nail and hook the coil wire to the other.

Prop it up so the nails are not touching any metal.

As you crank the car you should see a blue spark jumping the 7/16 gap.

This puts a stress on the ignition system of about 13 Kilovolt, which is more than enough to start the car.

This is a handy tool to have, or they sell an adjustable one at the parts store for about 10 bucks.

Standard ignition should test about 13, HEI at 25.

Do not get the bulb type tester as a weak spark will fire them.

jm2c