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Truck won't start when it warms up...Help!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by roll of the dices, Jan 13, 2013.

  1. ParkinsonSpeed
    Joined: Oct 11, 2010
    Posts: 429

    ParkinsonSpeed
    Member

    Well if I ever have this problem, at least now I know what to check... That's why if I'm reading anything on here I'm learning.
     
  2. Styleliner
    Joined: Apr 9, 2013
    Posts: 180

    Styleliner
    Member

    A bad solenoid can freeze up tight when hot. Warm? Maybe.
     
  3. 55 dude
    Joined: Jun 19, 2006
    Posts: 9,357

    55 dude
    Member

    Glad your issue is resolved.
     
  4. bobwop
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 6,136

    bobwop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Arley, AL

    glad the problem is fixed.

    and thank you for reporting back.

    I bought a 409 powered car from a HAMBer. He was frustrated because it wouldn't start when COLD. It would start when warm. He had to keep his garage warm just to get the car to start. Imagine how I felt when it showed up in winter and no start!

    Just like this case, the wire to the coil was missing. We found it quickly and the fix was cheap.

    but the symtoms were opposite.

    interesting.
     
  5. Vimtage Iron
    Joined: Feb 28, 2010
    Posts: 561

    Vimtage Iron
    Member

    Ahh, you must still be running the stomp starter, the 12 volt units on top had a machine screw stud sticking out to attach the coil wire to when running a ballest resistor.
     
  6. If you are running a point iginition. you need a resistor wire or ballast resistor. then from the terminal on the starter seleonid you need a boost wire going directly to the coil that byp***es the resistor giving the coil a full 12 volts buring cranking.
     
  7. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    Your flooding it. They flood easy. Walk away & go start it later & DONT STEP ON THE GAS
     
  8. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    **** yeah! Thanks for the lesson y'all. I'm so use to putting HEI's on anything GM
     
  9. Had the same problem.
    It was the needle and seat.
    Would start just fine, when cold. After getting up to temp, it had a hard start.

    The seat leaked just enough, it would drain the fuel bowl, flooding the intake. Leaked not enough to effect the idle.
    Cold start it was perfect.
    I replaced the needle and seat.
    Pumping the carb, would flood it even more !
    .
     
  10. rfraze
    Joined: May 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,009

    rfraze
    Member

    Good job on the update and feedback! Best possible way to thank everyone who tried to help and educate each of us.
     
  11. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,907

    40FordGuy
    Member

    I'm with the coil guys..... I fought that same issue all summer, Turned out, some of the windings went "open" when it became "heat soaked".

    4TTRUK
     
  12. hoop98
    Joined: Jan 23, 2013
    Posts: 1,362

    hoop98
    Member
    from Texas

    you can eliminate the coil with a homemade spark tester.

    Put 2 small nails thru a piece of Styrofoam at 45 angles in a spread V.

    Place the points exactly 7/16 of an inch apart.

    The purpose of the V is to allow you to adjust the sharp ends close together and keep the other ends far apart.

    Using a jumper wires ground one nail and hook the coil wire to the other.

    Prop it up so the nails are not touching any metal.

    As you crank the car you should see a blue spark jumping the 7/16 gap.

    This puts a stress on the ignition system of about 13 Kilovolt, which is more than enough to start the car.

    This is a handy tool to have, or they sell an adjustable one at the parts store for about 10 bucks.

    Standard ignition should test about 13, HEI at 25.

    Do not get the bulb type tester as a weak spark will fire them.

    jm2c
     

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