I have a 350 out of an 84 suburban in my 54 Chevy. The rad leaked and it got hot. Gauge said 240-250 F before I noticed and shut it down. Now with a new Rad and it running 140-150 F there is a problem with it stalling. The other problem is when i hit the gas there is no responce for a second then it takes off burning the tires out. My geuss is between 1000 rpm and 2000 rpm there is no responce. then the engine takes off. this will happen without me increasing pressure on the throttle. It is like a hessitation. When I start it up is idles but once in gear it shuts off. If I adjust the idle up it engages the Torq converter and want to take off. There is no water in the oil or tell tale steam out the exhaust. The carb is rebuild but not adjusted. It worked fine up till it got hot. the timing is near 10 degrees BTDC i think.
as close to 120 as possible.... in all cylinders..... You will notice problem cylinders cuz the plugs wont look like they are burnin clean...
I think your engine is running too cool now. The mixture leans out under load/ acceleration and causes the engine to bog. This is even worse with a cold engine, because it needs a richer mixture until it's warmed up. That's what a choke is there for. I'd change to a 180 degree thermostat, hook up the Choke and if this doesn't fully solve your problem see if the power valve in your carb works...
X2 on 140-150 being too cold Fix that first and then see. You say it was fine before - so what was the operating temp before ?
This is a long shot, but this symptom happen to me in my '63 Grand Prix. It came on sudden. It acted like the trans was releasing at idle or coming to a stop. Some recommended the kick down was out of adjustment. That didn't work, so the "Slim Jim" was pulled and inspected. It supposedly only had 3K miles after a rebuild. All the ears of the clutches were broken off. Funny, once moving it shifted and drove fine. It would just kill the engine at idle. I swapped to a 350th. Like I said, it's a long shot........
Some updates. I seafoamed it and it ran perfect for about 2 miles then ****ped out again. This tells me its a carb issue. Ok Compression test was 110 on one cyl, 130 on one cyl, and 120 to 125 on the rest. I pulled the fuel filter and found a mess. Dirty gas on both sides. I used the old fuel tank and I think it wasnt so clean. Im guessing varnish. I got two more filters last night and I'm gonna drain the gas out but not sure what to do with bad gas yet. Then run the filters and fresh gas. Then keep changing filters till it looks good. I'll look into a new thermostat. It used to run about 150-160 F about the same as now when the coolant was full.
So the part about it running fine until it got hot is purely coincidental to having a plugged fuel filter and sea foam correcting the problem ?
Well the first tank of gas was a day before it running fine at my wedding. Then the next day its started to run bad but it also got hot heading from the wedding to the hotel. Then 10 days later with the new radiator in I'm guessing the gas had really cleaned out the tank by this time and it kept clogging the carb till I sea foamed it and it ran pretty good for a few miles then ****ped out again from the krud in the fuel. So I'm thinking coincidence but I really don't know if the fuel is the only problem here yet till its clean and I run the car. I only have about 100 miles or so on the car since I got it running. I'm just trying to chase down the issues. This is my first project like this.
Well you are still in shake down mode, and really can't make a claim that it was fine because there's not enough time in 1st tank of gas and one day driving. There's just no history to go off of. In shake down mode, you need to return to the basics EVERYTIME a problem occurs. You can easily have a simultainious problem or several problems with every system. Going back to the basics per system and ground up check will catch the problems. They may be related but they may be completely separate issues occurring at the same time. So your cooling system malfunctioned on shake down (via hole) And Your fuel delivery system malfunctioned on shake down. Two completely different issues and most likely not related in any way. No sense looking for heat related problems that possibly could affect fuel delivery or engine performance. ( aka wild goose chase or zebra hunt based on horse tracks) See where this went, engine damage, headgaskets, transmission, blah blah blah ( all possible but that would be based on history and there's none here yet) Get your tank flushed, clean the lines, check carb for junk that may have gotten past the filters and ****on that up. Check your fuel pressure !!!!! Then proceed with dialing in the carb. Run thru the cooling system and see what's up. If in doubt or a component is questionable have it checked or replace it. There's a lot of sediment that may be loosened after a long hybernation that could be screwing up the cooling system. A thorough flush is in order so you don't plug up a new radiator.
Wow thats really good info. Thank you! I wasnt really thinking in that way and it makes perfect sence. I will do a flush of the fuel and cooling systems. Clean the carb, yes its really bad. the filter just completely failed and I found chunks of **** on the carb side. I can get a fuel pressure gauge. should be like 5 psi right? I'll have to do some research on what to do to dial in the carb. It was rebuilt but I only have messed with the idle screw. Also its missing the Possitive wire on the choke. Does that go to the same wire as the coil? so its hot when the ignition in on.
Ok well that is on the list too then. Was i right to hook it up to the ign coil lead? or a relay from that lead?
I never liked hooking up to the coil but that's me personally and my own weirdness. The instructions with most carbs w electric choke say to hook it up to the coil and it seems to work fine. No relay needed I use a oil pressure switch, once the switch sees pressure, the choke gets power.
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