I'm starting to build two aluminum gas tanks and wonder if there are things that I should be aware of before I install it? If I weld it thoroughly (which I will) it shouldn't leak. But should I seal it regardless? What would work as a sealer? I'm going to run baffles, and then weld the top on. Any HAMB'ers out there who've trodden this path that would like to p*** on their wisdom? Thanks, Ryan PS. Here are pics of my progress so far. I've welded the sides, and the bottoms in. I've yet to weld in baffles, and cut holes for the sending unit, roll over valve, and pick up tube. I may also weld a bung at the bottom so I can drain it if I ever need to.
I am sure that others will add to this response. Designing and fabricating fuel (and oil) tanks for various aircraft, aerobatic and cl***ics/antiques, I do not do anything after TIG welding and leak checking. There is no sealer, that I know of, that is FAA approved for slosh-sealing, coating, the interior of aluminum tanks. The problem, potential or not, may be the various additives that are used in modern pump gas. And, just my opinion, if it isn't used in aircraft, it's not likely to be suitable for automobiles. Stand by for more information from others. Pros and cons.
I had a 1/4" plate welded in the top [about6" sq.] in case I want to drill & tap another fixture of some sort .. think ahead.. dave
Methanol in todays fuel will be a problem down the road ...WHY... Methanol/alkahol is highly corrosive especialy to aluminum, most racers that use alum/tanks drain them after use. The better grade it is the better it resist corrotion 6061 t6 is best .I however would strongly recomend stainless steel for your tank for todays fuels JMHO.....
How would I go about pressure testing it with a huge filler tube? I'm sorry if this is a dumb question, but I want to get it right. Thanks for your response dudes.
RPM, reply number 4 above, has it exactly right. Test with VERY LOW air pressure. 1.5 to 2 psi. USe soapy water and a brush. Go over the welds with the mix and look for bubbling. Heavy plate on any surface is not necessary for possible future fittings. Get weld bungs...1/8....1/4.....pipe thread. Weld 'em in and screw in a plug.
The cost for the same quan***y of stainless steel was more than double that of the aluminum... Is there anyway to keep the aluminum from corroding? If not I'll store that info for later and call it a loss until I have to build a new one.
Go to a plumbing supply house and buy an expandable rubber plug. They are available in sizes up to 10 or 12 inches and are fairly cheap. Unless you are fighting a rust issue, tank coatings often create more problems than they solve. In the pics that aluminum looks to be about 1/4''? Heavy duty tank!
Bicycle inner tube and a hose clamp. Already has the schrader.Also will keep you from putting too much air pressure in there. Be careful . That trick works good for radiators too
I would look into at least applying epoxy to the welds, they may not leak air or water but they will seep. I've worked on fuel tanks (for large generators) that have had it poured in and capped then tumbled to coat the inside. Water Gl*** (sodium silicate)works also .
If you wanted to install a late model in-tank pump & needed a LARGE access hole, you'd be glad you had a tappable plate... think ahead... dave
#1 Make sure you run a very fine fuel filter as there will be particlates contaminating the fuel down the road. #2 you could use avation gas (no methanol) just costly also or #3 use stabil for marine aplacations and you will probably be ok.... Good Luck... Looks like a real nicely enginered tank by the way.. .
O'Boy here we go First thing is that the material you should use is 5052 H32 , Its a material that was designed for marine use and of all the alu. out there it is the least corrosion sensetive. Thats why they use it in boats. Second is that one should never build a tank that large from pieces,You should bend the shape as much as you can and then overlap the final seam so that the load is not directly on the weld. By welding mutiple pieces you can develop fractures along the welds. The only way to prevent that from happening is to edge the pieces first either with a radious or a bend and **** weld the two together and you will notice that when the part is welded properly that the drop-thru shows as a back weld bead but the stress will be on the whole radious.
Most likely I'm going to weld one up, and connect with a small bit of gasoline proof hose to the tank itself. Google search around and you can find some that are made to be welded in (or soldered).
I made an aluminum tank for my hooptey almost 10 years ago. I buy whatever ****py gas is available (most around here is 10% ethanol). I haven't experienced any visible corrosion, and both filters (front and rear) are clean. Not sure what corrosion issues others have had. Edit: I used 5052.
Hi guys, I'm a newbie and came across this site on Google. I have worked on a few kit-cars and have lengthened a van and fitted a V8 Rover engine to it. I drag-race a Hayabusa drag-bike at the moment (still getting the hang of it) as I used to ride my double-engined Triumph 'Two Faced' back in the sixties here in the UK. I am 71 now and currently in remission from cancer. Over the years as a spin-off from my drag-racing and making bits for myself and others, I have learned to weld aluminium with oxy-acetylene and have made many ally tanks and fairings. I have put a video together to show how I make a motorcycle petrol tank and it is for the guys who want to have a go themselves--it's not a commercial video. I'm self-taught and an electrician by trade. I usually use 16 swg aluminium for motorcycle tanks but have used that for a 6 gallon tank for my mate's cobra replica but anything bigger and I would suggest using 14swg. If this thread is still active I could post a link to my video if anyone is interested. Cheers for now, Pete. Warrington, Cheshire, UK.
Hi Pete - you're a brave man!! I'm 20 years younger and get windy on my moped ;-) If you are building ally tanks then I have some kit car owners who would be interested. I prefer ally to stainless - stainless has a bit of a catering industry vibe for me. I'm over in Chester and currently building a steel 27T Modified.
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