Continuing on my T5 to V8-60 swap, and checking fits on the bench, I found my clutch fork to throw out bearing alignment, which was fine with the old setup is not right with the new Speedway T5 bell housing (which fits my block dandy). Are the clutch forks different between the 60 and larger flatties? Mine has 73-7515 stamped into it. According to the Speedway tech page for their clutch fork, http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1932-...&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CMqFkLKBubcCFUFyQgodFSwAAw it is 4-1/4" total length, mine is 4-1/2" about the extra 1/4" that would account for the lack of alignment. Also the Speedway fork does not say it fits the 60. Why would the 60 fork be LONGER? They don't give the spec for the center to center, mine is 3-3/8" from center of shaft hole to center of wear pattern at bearing. Maybe someone has one handy they can measure?
the guys on the fordbarn might be a place to ask, keep posting your progress. I am thinking of doing this also.
I can think of no reason why the V860 clutch fork would be longer, nor was I aware it was, but it does appear to be the case for you. The obvious solution would be to find a 85HP clutch fork and swap it in...
I believe Speedway has them but you should be able to source one I'm sure .... Fordbarn is a good place for all things flat, BTW ....
Looks like the forks are indeed different. VanPelts lists part number 74-7515 for the 60 fork http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/trans-partsprices-V8-60.htm and 48-7515 for the 85 fork http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/trans-partsprices-pg3.htm My fork is neither, being 73-7515, fwiw. Superimposing the VanPelts 85 fork photo over a photo of my fork reveals the apparent difference, mine being the taller. And the beat goes on...
The distance from the clutch shaft centre line to the input shaft centre line is different between an 85hp and a 60hp. This would imply that the forks should be a different length to compensate. I can't remember which one is lower, but they are definitely different. Mart.
I put a Mustang t-5 behind my 60hp a couple years ago. I did replace the '85 fork with a '60 fork. Seems it was positioned better in the throwout bearing. Marvin,ct
To do this conversion you need a clutch fork for an 85 Hp engine. They are the same shaft size so they interchange but have a different height so they match your bearing. The fork you have is from the light duty 60 hp trans and wont work. You are going to have to make a tab of the adapter case for the throw out return spring to hook to because there are no provisions for that in that conversion.
A friend of mine had an 85 fork. 60 on right. I've read that these are supposed to be a heat/press fit on the shaft? So far they all slide on, which I guess puts all the torque on the pin. Good enough? How about using lock***e bearing fit?
I'm thinking of instead of using a pin, taping the shaft 3/8-16, drilling the fork 3/8 and running grade 8s in from both sides. Sound OK? Knowing me, this thing will end up having to come apart again at some point.
Just put a good quality 5/16" bolt through it with a self locking nut. Fine thread would be best. Use a bolt with a good length of plain shank and shorten the threaded part to the right length. Mart.
Thanks, that occurred to me too. 1-1/4 of shank gets you through both sides of the fork. So that's the plan then.
I read about 10 different methods for the spring dingus. I tapped the input housing for a drilled stud.
About ready to go in. I got this motorcycle jack at a garage sale for 30 bucks, looks more like a trans jack to me. So the only way I figure this is you have to hook the spring on the TO bearing after the bell housing is bolted to the trans, then put the whole plot in at once? I'm used to GMs where you put the bell housing on first.
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