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Lowering my 53 chevy help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by brooksinc1976, May 28, 2013.

  1. brooksinc1976
    Joined: Dec 4, 2009
    Posts: 282

    brooksinc1976
    Member
    from P-Town

    As much as I'd like to bag my 53-210 I don't want to drop the $$$$. So I'm gona just drop it. That said I want the "raked look" but I don't want it so low I drag on everything. My question: on the rear what size drop blocks should i use. And on the front is my best option cutting the spring .25 of a coil at a time so I don't over chop. Is there any other options in the front that I don't loose the suspension of the spring? Thx
     
  2. hoop98
    Joined: Jan 23, 2013
    Posts: 1,362

    hoop98
    Member
    from Texas

    If you set the spring on the floor and measure the height, you will get about 1.25 ' drop for each 1 inch of height you cut.

    You will stiffen the spring about 21-24 lbs per inch for each inch cut.

    Stock 300 per inch, cut 1 321, cut 2 346.

    Originally your spring would have been 14 3/4 inch, so you can measure how far it has sagged already.
     
  3. Hellfish
    Joined: Jun 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,815

    Hellfish
    Member

    We installed 3" lowering blocks in the rear of my wife's 51 (same suspension as yours) and cut 1.5-2 coils out of the front. It sat nice and low, but lower in the rear. It was a stiff ride though.
     
  4. Hotrodhog
    Joined: Aug 11, 2011
    Posts: 169

    Hotrodhog
    Member

    There are 3" blocks in the rear, and M2 in the front
     

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  5. waldo53
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 863

    waldo53
    Member
    from ID

    I just saw a post here on the HAMB about 3" dropped uprights for your Chev. Those, and maybe 1/2 coil up front, 3" or 4" blocks in back and it should be looking good!
     
  6. brooksinc1976
    Joined: Dec 4, 2009
    Posts: 282

    brooksinc1976
    Member
    from P-Town

    Great thx for the info. For grins I got a quote on bagging it. 2750 or 3750. 3750 if I want the latest wiz bang computer operator thing. A bit higher than I want.

    What can be done about the stiffness of the ride after cutting the springs??? This will be the "wifes" car as she puts it and comfort will be key to its longevity in our family.
     
  7. you cans out back . check my profile . this is what i did .... in pic . totally diffrrent now tho
     
  8. sorry you can cut max 3 coils in from .. 2 rides well . 3 inch block out back
     
  9. cosmic12
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 422

    cosmic12
    Member

    If you have a welder you can raise the steering knuckle/spindle mount on the lower controll arm and get 2"s easy then put blocks in the rear.
    On my 52 I did this and added 2" dropped spindles for a total of 4"s front and 4" blocks rear.
    I still have full travel not stiffened up at all. springs are stock.
     

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  10. hoop98
    Joined: Jan 23, 2013
    Posts: 1,362

    hoop98
    Member
    from Texas

    I looked up some springs, the top yellow should be in your car now, the bottom yellow is a Cadillac rear cut 3/4 inch which would drop you about 3 in the front.

    Of course if you use a dropped spindle then you wouldn't want that short a spring.

    Google to find the best prices, they vary all over the place. The 51005s shoud be under 100 for a pair.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2013
  11. brooksinc1976
    Joined: Dec 4, 2009
    Posts: 282

    brooksinc1976
    Member
    from P-Town

    Ok hotrodhog's car is the desired look I'm going for. Pls correct me if I'm wrong. I like the idea of measure twice cut once. If I use 2-3" drop blocks in the back and drop spindles in the front I don't loose comfort and everything can be returned to original and if down the road I want to bag it I can without any "redo's"
     
  12. hoop98
    Joined: Jan 23, 2013
    Posts: 1,362

    hoop98
    Member
    from Texas

    I think that's the best way!
     
  13. sweeden
    Joined: Mar 25, 2013
    Posts: 164

    sweeden
    BANNED

    well they dont make drop spindles for the car they make dropped up rights and lowerd steering arms which gambino sells for 610 shipped... pretty friggin pricey but its the only way to get that 2" without loosing factory ride. If i was just lowering the car id hack the springs i forked up the green backs fro the uprights because im baggin mine but i dont see it being worth that for lowering a car
     
  14. Hellfish
    Joined: Jun 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,815

    Hellfish
    Member

    If you want to avoid the stiffness, then order some lowered springs. They will ride the same as stock, but will sit lower. I did this with my 59. They will run you about $200 for the pair. I'm not sure what lowered/re-arched rear springs will cost you. Talk to a local spring shop. I had my Econoline spring re-arched for less than $100.

    You can order the coils from these guys http://www.coilsprings.com/
     
  15. brooksinc1976
    Joined: Dec 4, 2009
    Posts: 282

    brooksinc1976
    Member
    from P-Town

    Ok,ok, ok, I've been racking my brain on the advice. I also got some quotes on baggin it (2800-3900). It's still on the wish list. That said I think I'm gona cut down the springs and put blocks in the back. That should cost me less then a 100. If I don't like the ride I can pony up on new springs and maybe drop spindles. Since the car is torn apart I was going to rebuild the front end to improve the ride.
    Talk to me goose am I taking any steps backwards. Tell me where I'm going wrong.


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  16. brooksinc1976
    Joined: Dec 4, 2009
    Posts: 282

    brooksinc1976
    Member
    from P-Town

    Oh and what do I need to watch out far so the ft tires don't kick in on the top.


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  17. sweeden
    Joined: Mar 25, 2013
    Posts: 164

    sweeden
    BANNED

    well for the dropped upright and lowered steering arms ur at 610 and to add on the rebuild kit is another 350 so ur at a 1000 just for that. Ive got 2000 into my front end (bagged) just so i could run the stock front end i also upgraded to disc breaks but that was only 400
     
  18. sweeden
    Joined: Mar 25, 2013
    Posts: 164

    sweeden
    BANNED

    theres also a good thread on here that explains how to adjust the camber its easy
     
  19. brooksinc1976
    Joined: Dec 4, 2009
    Posts: 282

    brooksinc1976
    Member
    from P-Town

    When bagging the front what all changes/goes away. Do you have to change the up rights or I guess the real question is if you only bag it how low will it drop. When parked what all is required for it to sit on the ground in addition to just bagging it.


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  20. sweeden
    Joined: Mar 25, 2013
    Posts: 164

    sweeden
    BANNED

    i dont know to be honest with u. im gonna body drop mine so it lays flat rocker so the uprights had to go no matter what... you can save a ton of money by stepping the lower control arms 2 inches thats what most seem to be doing. u have to cut a good part of the spring hat out to fit the air bag. the car lays the ****** xmember when u get it on the ground. i think that puts the rockers about a inch or 2 off the ground. To go lower u have to remake ur ****** xmember so it will lay further but then ur lower arms lay on the ground, so to go lower ull have to z the front frame
     
  21. brooksinc1976
    Joined: Dec 4, 2009
    Posts: 282

    brooksinc1976
    Member
    from P-Town

    Yea I'm not wanting to get that deep into it. I think I need to get a better detail of what work is included with the bagged price. For now I'm going po boy on it. Now what happens if you just cut the coil and nothing else. I get it will ride worse but will it affect/damage of parts of the ft suspension like the uprights. Also does anyone have pics of the cut and welded steering


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  22. sweeden
    Joined: Mar 25, 2013
    Posts: 164

    sweeden
    BANNED

    The car will just rude worse the more u cut out of the coils. Yea id see because thats not a bad price they wanna charge u if they are gonna do it the right way and put the actual dropped uprights on it and notchthe back and put u in a good link. But my guess at tht price they are just tossing it together to make it adjustable. If u do a search for bagging a 54 stock front end there is a real good informative thread on how everyones bagginthe front of theyrs
     
  23. Dead End Sleds
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 224

    Dead End Sleds
    Member

    If rebuilding IFS go to chevytalk.org for step by step how to. I did that cut 1.5 coils and added dropped uprights. I noticed no different ride.


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  24. brooksinc1976
    Joined: Dec 4, 2009
    Posts: 282

    brooksinc1976
    Member
    from P-Town

    Oh in so confused. Ha. Ill check out that site. Like I said privously I just don't want to take 2 steps back. A little trial and error never hurt just don't want to hemorrhage any money I don't have to. Thx. Ill keep bugging y'all.


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  25. Dead End Sleds
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 224

    Dead End Sleds
    Member

    Didn't mean to confuse. But you said going to rebuild IFS. You will need a kit to replace worn parts. I think I got mine from Chevs of 40's or Natl Chev ***n. going to cost some $$ but worth it. Use site I mentioned for step by step. I have my rebuild on my personal page. You can see how worn the old parts were. Best place to start.


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  26. brooksinc1976
    Joined: Dec 4, 2009
    Posts: 282

    brooksinc1976
    Member
    from P-Town

    I got ya bud. Just digesting all the info. I got lucky on my truck and didn't have to think much on how to drop it. Now I am educating myself on all the options from bags to z'ed frame. Here is my easy drop ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1370010010.416335.jpg


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  27. Dead End Sleds
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 224

    Dead End Sleds
    Member

    If a dummy like me can do it, it has to be simple


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  28. sweeden
    Joined: Mar 25, 2013
    Posts: 164

    sweeden
    BANNED

    well its all in what ur willing to spend i suppose. Mine started out as me just builging a **** box that layed the rocker panels on the ground.... now after actually tearing into it and having spent the money i have so far im gonna make it the best thing i can make it. if ur gonna spend the money on the uprights and the rebuild u may as well pony up the extra 150 bucks to bag the *****.... its not like u have to do the disc conversion on the front end so that will save u some money. who ever thought baggin the front would be cheaper haha. The back aint **** all u need is a notch some bags and a 4 link. even with buying the beefiest 4 link suicide doors sells im still only 650 in the rear of the car
     
  29. brooksinc1976
    Joined: Dec 4, 2009
    Posts: 282

    brooksinc1976
    Member
    from P-Town

    Well I finally got my garage in order and made my first steps on my ch***is. I figured it would be a lot easier if the body was off the frame so... ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1370312211.548106.jpg
    Now I wait for my birthday presents.



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  30. sweeden
    Joined: Mar 25, 2013
    Posts: 164

    sweeden
    BANNED

    did you paint it or did it look like that when u pulled the cab off? Lookin good love my 2 door
     

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