I have a coil of 3/16 brake line from speedway and can not get a good straight run. Anybody have a trick for uncoiling it to get it straight? I am trying to get at least 4 or five feet of it straight. Thanks
i did that same thing i just slowly bent it by hand as i was unrollin it take your time you'll get it!!
uncoil it in the crotch of a piece of angle iron or against the base of a wall at the floor. Anything that will give you a 90 deg. crotch.
Uncoil just a bit of it, 6-8". Place it on the floor with something heavy resting on the end that you just uncoiled (or have a helper stand on it). Now walk the coil out by pressing it against the floor while you roll it along. Kind of hard to describe. When your done, if it still has a bit of a curve to it, GENTLY rake the outside of the curve against the edge of your bench or something similar. Rake it back and forth smoothly until all of the curve is gone.
I've had good results by laying tubing on a 2 X 4 and "slapping" it with another 2 X 4, rotating the tubing as necessary.
uncoil it the best you can on the floor then put one end in the vice and grab the other end with a vise grip and give a good yank on it a few times
You could try stretching it. Clamp one end in your vise, then hook a come-a-long to the other end and pull it tight. Don't stretch it too much, just enough to straighten it out. This trick used to work well with copper tube, but I've never tried it on steel.
This is a technique that has long been used by the stained gl*** folks to straighten out the lead channel("came"). There is even a special toothed clamp made to hold one end tight. Thing is, the lead also hardens and changes (tensile strength?) when you pull it. I don't know if pulling the aluminum/steel tubing would make it brittle, but it might-any metallurgists out there?
That is why I love the HAMB I just got a roll of fuel line yesterday and was wondering how to straighten it out. man weird...... Also, Its actually cheaper to buy in rolls. I bought a 25 footer for 16 bux on egay. I priced out the 6 footers and it was more expensive for 2 6 footers. Of course the rolls do not come with fittings but those are fairly cheap if you have the tools to flare the line. Rey
After you straighten it out, slap the line itself on the shop floor rotating a bit after each slap. Wayno
TO get it straighter than just rolling it you can tie it off to something, like a beam in your garage and give it a pull with a come-a-long. Just a little tension does wonders. Larry
If this is for the '32, leave them in an arc, because you'll just have to bend it back in to follow the curve of that frame anyway. I don't much worry about it any more than getting it uncoiled enough to start measuring for all the bends that it's going to get in it to clear all the obstacles it needs to clear to install in the frame anyway. When it's ready to go in it won't have much lenght that you want to still be straight anyway. Also, it's been bent to be coiled up,(1) if you bend it to make it straight,(2) and then end up bending part of it back the direction it was coiled, (3) that's three times bending back and forth... That much closer to a stress fracture, like what's being discussed in the copper fuel line thread.