That would be a No. It very's widely form Brand to Brand and year to year on some brands. The Wizzard
Technically that normally would be 10 degrees King Pin Inclination. I don't know what you mean by all, could you clarify?
If you'll look at and study the picture below, you can maybe start realizing the myriad number of possible variables that come into play when calculating that spindle angle, a few of which could be wheel offset, wheel width, overall tire diameter, suspension type, etc., to facilitate that "near-perfect" scrub radius which usually decreases steering input effort while enhancing some aspects of overall suspension design. Additionally, and not that it really matters much to most folks, this is my 1000th post, with a few more still to come. DD
yes this is waht I have so far, piss poor, with 24'' tyre erm, the plan is to 1. use a f1 spindle so I don't need the top-hat spacer/adaptor for the 59.1 =inner bearing, come over the 10mm 3/8ths there 2. want to run a chevy astro rotor too, as its a smidgers shallower to the wheel face., 12 inch rotor too, and 5 on 5 pcd 3. want to run 16 inch wheels by 6 go up to about 26'' tyre diameter. 4. want to utilise the stock steering arms, plus as I am rhd, want to drill an extra eye in the left, where the original one hoops over. 'side steer', but me = cross steer. 5. I don't want bolt on arms as I need to mount the 2 piston caliper from inside off all 4 holes, 12'' thats the plan anyway. Steve, Do you mean just chevy are different or is it ford too, is it m***ive = more that one degree?
nobby...My first post was a poor attempt on my part to answer your original question by trying to explain to you a few of the factors that can have an effect on SCRUB RADIUS. SCRUB RADIUS is a term that needs to be REASONABLY understood to realize WHY the spindle is built with ANY angle at all, no matter what that angle is. Different spindles can be found with MANY different angles built-in. Please click on the link below for a far better explanation of WHAT "scrub radius" is, and some of the reasons WHY it can make the inclination angles different from one spindle to the next. Hope this helps. DD http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scrub_radius
A 1956 Ford pickup ISN'T F1...its F100 and F100 spindles are not a bolt on to an early Ford axle. The kingpin is on a different angle and the kingpin is also larger. It will take a good bit of machine work and axle bending to make them work so its hardly worth the effort. F1 spindles (1948-52) will work (although there has been some question about some of the F1 spindles having a slightly different king pin angle...not sure whats going on there!) Point being...MAKE SURE exactly what you have there before spending money!
On a front end alignment chart for that particular vehicle look up the King Pin Angle. And like was written earlier, unless it is way off, it is a major undertaking to change requiring an alignment machine with bending bars to compensate the caster and camber. And, this angle relates to the original specifications of the front end, ie: wheel size and width, tire size and width, etc. Extending a line through the king pin to the ground it should intersect the tire contact point at its center, and with zero degrees of caster it should remain in that center point while the wheels are steered from left to right. As caster is added or subtracted, the contact point will move outward or inward respectively. When you put wider wheels and tires on the vehicle it obviously changes that contact point, this is what makes the vehicle steer harder when standing still as the tire no longer rotates around that contact point in the center. Dave.
I'm going to venture a guess that the guys who drop axles can also set the axle to use a different king pin inclination. I can't see it being a big deal to set the camber . Getting all the parts to fit up and work on the spindle is the hard part, sounds like you have that part all well sorted and need a camber adjustment. Easy peazy lemon squeezy
...and the kingpin diameter can be taken care of by mixing and matching the kingpins with bigger bushings or enlarging the axle hole (have to be careful there not to weaken the axle of course) or a combo of both. It basicly comes down to cost of the modifications over the availability of parts that simply bolt on. I KNOW that several here have used F100 spindles on early Ford axles...so it certainly isn't impossible to do!
Bending Old stock Axles has been around since the the early days. Those were good Forged Steel axles. Some of today's new aftermarket ones don't fair so well. In fact there has been a few posts of them braking when trying to bend for alignment. I, personally have not been involved with said issue however I know of a local Machinest that Curbed his ride and sheered his aftermarket axle off at the perch bolt hole. Make sure you know what your working with before you start bending and twisting things around. The Wizzard
I tried adapting 1950 Cadiallac spindles to an early Ford dropped axle and this was the result. It was agreat idea at the time, but for some reason I forgot to consider the differences possible between designs and manufacturers. The end of your axle needs to be at a matching angle to that of your spindle.
so I need 48-52 spindles, but I need two sets so as to get the bolt on arms, do the latersteering arms bolt into the earlier spindles, alsoare the48-52spindles fatter at the innerbearing, i..e. do they still require the gm11'' rotoradaptor/for the ford bearing
The 53-56 Ford F100 axles are 4 degree inclination with .859 dia kingpins the 48-52 F1 has a 8 degree inclination with .8125 dia kingpins. The axle inclination can be bent on the axle to match the spindles. www.droppedaxles.com
With a 4 degree KPI and a 26 inch tall tire I think you will be looking for 1-2 inches of negative offset.
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